CB works

If you melted the siding, you might be able to dull the glossy areas with a fine grit sanding sponge.

The big pro about these boards is how much you learn (me anyway). Lord knows I wouldn't be where I am today without them. Hopefully after this next batch, the curing issue will be solved and this portion of this thread can go to more productive learning. Take your time Russell, get this right because there lots of people who like you're stain, me included.

Why, were you getin smart with me??? That's almost the only "downer" about these boards. It's hard to read into how people are coming across. I went ahead and removed the accused. Man am I a wuss. I bet it would have got removed anyway. LOL

Jarrod, I wish I wouldn't have posted that remark because I hate negativity. If I read the post wrong than I apologize for the comment.

Yeah, you would think there would be some understanding, instead it's condescending. Now we have condesending remark's from the people who tried to cherry coat the problem in the first place.

Beth, I haven't added any mineral spirits. I was in thinking that if I thin it, that I would be sacrificing some of the durability of the stain. I'm sure there is an acceptable amount you can add and still have a long lasting finish? Is there a benefit of using an airless rather than a sure flow type set up? Thanks for your help, Christian

Make some room in your PM mail box!

Applied with a Decker on the PT and ceder shake jobs and a brush and cloth on ipe.

Beth, How much faster is your WT curing when you add 4 oz per gallon? I have added 8 oz per gallon with still a much slower cure time compared to the old WT.

I had a deck that boosted HD-80 wouldn't work on (it could have been that it was so cold at the time) and I used Flood striper that worked. The only thing is is that it will foam forever and it's very hard to neutralize, and it's $25 a gallon, but it worked for me.

Rick, 4 oz per gallon seems a little high, thats 20 oz per 5er. If it was cool out and were expecting a rain soon after I might consider it. Disclaimer: I have had very limited experience in the wood care field. I have been at it now for about a year and most of my jobs have been in the last 6 months. So I am only relating my limited experience (maybe I over applied). I was one of the ones that was working with the new batch in the spring when it was "cool" out (5 days in a row where it got near 80 and the boards were hot). We have done about 20,000 square feet with the new tux and being that the jobs were multi day projects I was able to watch the stuff cure out. All of the wood stayed tacky for at least 3 days (Jap dry included). None of the stain was ever tacky the day I applied the stain, it was always the next day when it felt sticky. I was getting spread rates from 175 sq ft per gallon to 350 on ipe. When I was getting 175 per 65% of the work was lattice and spindles so I think there was a lot of over spray not getting used. All that being said I still really like the new formula. All I do is warn the client what to expect, and that it is normal to feel tacky, and all is OK.

Rick, I just finished a 2000 sq ft ipe dech with the new WTW. I was figuring same on ipe, as far as penetration, so I didn't add any jap dry. I wish I would have. The deck stayed tacky for 3 days. I think the reason it stayed tacky for so long was because the rain hit a day after I finished. What was nice was that even though the rain hit and it wasn't fully cured all the stain stayed on the deck. I would definitely beef it up it the japan dry. Just so you know, I applied using the same method you mentioned. I had really long working times in the shade. I was brushing four twelve foot boards then going back to wipe off the excess with no shine on the wood. On the ocean side where it was exposed and the boards where hot I would go down one board at a time. I can't say if 4 oz would bring it back to normal on ipe because like I said I didn't use any. I would think that it wouldn't, unless the boards were hot. I would ask Russel if I were you.

Rick, We have added as much as 12 oz or more per 5er and had much better cure times. Still not as fast as the old WTW. It still took more than a day or so to cure, but that was up in the mountains when it was much cooler. I kind of like the control using the japan dryer. When it's cool, just load it up with the stuff, when it's 95 degrees out side, leave it as is and enjoy the extra working time. Hope this helps, Christian

Neil, Looks great!! When you mix your own WRS does it look like the one now offered by ESI?

Is that Deckster still for sale?? Christian

Myrtle B Some good folk round here.

Neil, Glad to see you doing so well up there. As far as the 5.5, I brought mine up there to Banner Elk and out of 5 homes I hooked up too, two had enough water to to keep my tank full. I know Ashville is off the hill a bit but I still think you might need a tank. Keep posting those killer photos! Christian

Stop guys, I'm blushing. I have a new business idea: Are you in a pinch?? Hard working pressure washer for hire, comes with 5.6 hot water rig, 150ft of supply hose, 200 ft high pressure washer 19 inch whisper wash,and x- jet.... Nah, that might get a little too complicated

Thanks a lot Roger and Celeste for including me on this job. I really miss working at this job sight. Even working off that $@#!#$ raft. Some of those wakes coming off those big boats were surfable when they hit the banks at low tide. Next time I'm bringing my board!! I'm looking forward to go take one last look at this project on Monday. I just like looking at all of that ipe. I'm bring my poles for a couple of those nice trout and hopefully one of those big drum. See yall on Monday, Christian

Is that an undigested fish head in that one? looks like a finger mullet.

RCBill, That's it, they didn't want the doors on property while they were being worked on. I took them off, boarded the entrance ( there was another one), and took them to my shop. (converted my surfboard factory for three days). I ended up charging $900 for this job. I can't say it wasn't worth it because now my foot is in the door, but if it was just for the doors I would have to say it wasn't. Ken, Thanks it is. I am happy with the outcome, it's just how I got there I would like to forget.

Here are the doors I did this summer. I kind of wanted to forget about this job, that's why I haven't got around to posting them till now. I learned a real important lesson on this one. Never take a job you have haven't done before, with a deadline only an experienced contractor could keep up with. Being that they needed the doors back in three days I didn't want to pressure wash them and have to wait till they dry. So I got a striper that wasn't caustic and I wouldn't have to neutralize, figured I could apply, bag, and scrape. Well, I applied, and bagged, then when I came back the next morning the doors sucked all the moisture out if the striper and it was like dried, caked tooth paste on the doors. After lots of cussing, scraping and wishing I had listened to most of you, the only thing left I could do was to sand them. So after 10 hours sleep in three days I got the job done. I think I'm just now caught up with the sleep I lost. They were happy and I have got some more work out of it so I guess It paid off....I think.

Unreal Neil, Did you also do the ceder shake on the house?

Don, Thanks, I got to remember that line.

I have a new construction house to wash tomorrow with Rust-Oleum on the Trex Deck. Has anyone had to remove anything like this off that beautiful stuff. I have a sample board to see if what I have will cause damage. It would be nice if anyone has experienced this and I wouldn't have to do a sample, But I'm probably to late on posting this question and will have to do it anyway. Thanks, CB