dk34

Your frustrations should be diminishing, as I have seen quite a few rigs posted for sale in the last week. Here's another: **********/board/upload/showthread.php?t=5553

Even a laptop with Google's picture viewer, on slideshow loop, with an mp3 for background music is a free way to get pics with some attention.

I now fully understand why more that 50% of non-franchised business fail in the first few years. There are many additional costs to starting a business. To make a blanket statement that "franshise is too expensive about 15k to 100k for all equipment with training. it is too much and very risk." is so short sighted. But I guess if you have $500 and want to give it a shot, go for it.

http://www.eacochem.com/efflorescencebrochure.shtml I have used EacoChem's products in the past for efflorescence with success. Here is a link to an article about it, as well as a product recommendation.

The picture is nothing spectacular, but it does show a water repellant being sprayed. I took it for verification that we applied the material with a minimum of 6" of run down, as required by the architect. We used an air-powered flo-jet pump, which allowed a 1 person crew to apply 3 drums (165 gallons) of water repellant per day.

I didn't get a call either, even John wil not return my calls or emails.

I would use Aspir-solv from Diedrich chemicals, if the area is not too big. Here is the spec sheet. http://www.diedrichtechnologies.com/page46.html

Assuming that the single axle trailer has a GVW of 3000 lbs., and the trailer weighs about 1000 lbs., you can tow up to 2000 lbs. A hot water washer weighs about 750 lbs., + reels, hose, chems, and 225 gallons of water weighs almost 1900 lbs. You can see that ithe trailer is overmatched.

I too believe it is efflorescence. If it is you may want to try an eacochem product. http://www.eacochem.com/efflorescencebrochure.shtml

Just buy a threaded ball valve(Grainger/Home Depot/Lowes, etc.) and threaded hose barbs.

That machine was built by Americlean, in Gettysburg, PA. Some of you have mentioned the name Steve Wiley, who was a motivational speaker at the last PWNA convention. He owned Americlean. He was a sales rep for a company called Wash on Wheels, also from Gettysburg before he started Americalean. WOW built the exact same unit. He started the company around 1986, and sold franchises for that business for a number of years - how long - I'm not sure. The original Americlean units heated their water by running a recirculating pump between the heater and the tank. It was not an instantaneous heating process. My first unit had this type of set up. I used to heat the water up at my house before going out to a job. My how things have progressed.....even the lettering on those machines was hand painted. Vinyl lettering didn't even exist. The I/C twin II engine didn't last very long either. I used to have to put a new gear on the starter every three months.

I have seen opinions expressed here and on other boards that the original shoots farther. I have both and use the original if I need to reach a high peak.

My x-jet tip. I sometimes remove the pvc hose from the x-jet while rinsing. If I am rinsing a large area, it is easier to remove it, than to drag it around with me. The tip is - if you do this, make sure you close to shut off valve. If you don't a siphon could be created, and you will empty your bucket of soap. One bad experience taught me this. Undiluted bleach & grass do not mix.

Shoot me an email if you are interested. dan at kesslerspowerwash dot com.

I won't go the 100 miles to the job. If you are truly interested, send me an email to the address in the 1st post. Thanks.

How did people rinse before there was an x-jet?

You could definitely x-jet the application of the cleaner, however, you may have to rinse from a ladder, depending on whether or not it the cleaner does it all on it's own. Dwell time will help.

The differences: http://homebuying.about.com/cs/syntheticstucco/a/eifs_facts.htm Assuming that you are cleaning the same "problem" - mildew, etc., the process will be the same - in my opinion.

Classic, I've cleaned plenty of it. Hotels, residences & businesses. Let the chems do the work, & use less pressure on the rinsing. If the caulking has failed or is deteriorated in the control joints or around the seams & windows, be careful as you may get blamed for causing mold growth underneath the dryvit. It would be hard to prove, as rainwater would enter as well. I usually make the owner aware of the caulking deficiencies for their own future maintenance budgets. Here is a picture of a simple cleaning sample. The picture was taken before it was rinsed. You can see that the cleaner did the work, and I could have rinsed it with a garden hose. I used a bleach/laundry detergent solution.

Wal Mart sells their generic brand of bleach for $1.78 / gallon. I think the container may be a little larger than a gallon as well.

http://www.thecleanernetwork.com/showthread.php?t=1846 used x-jet 4 sale.

Would you like to share your method?

I ordered an enclosed trailer for my washer & equipment, and wanted to know what others with this type of trailer are using to prolong the life of the floor? It is 3/4" plywood. I was thinking along the lines of rubber roofing or some type of epoxy paint. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your replies. I ordered an epoxy for wood, with an abrasive additive. Putting it 6" up the walls, after caulking the wall joint is a good idea as well. Thanks again. Dan

Use the search function under the word "marketing", and you'll find many, many answers to your question.