Deck Guy

Since it's hilly here, over 2/3 of the decks here are on the second floor, often above a concrete patio serving a walkout basement like the one below (both pics of the same deck). I use a telescoping wand if necessary to strip, and with a short (18") extension on my airless gun, I can stain by leaning over from the inside to shoot most railings and spindles, after doing the areas nearest the house by hand. Based on the decks construction, while leaning over the rail, I shoot the spindles from 45 degrees in one direction, then work back at 45 degrees from the other. Sometimes a horizontal finish stroke is required along the bottom rail or under the top. This coats each side once, and the outside twice. Of course, I tarp off the inside of the railing with the 4x10 disposable paper/plastic tarps when I'm doing that to avoid shooting myself with the stain. My helper then leans over with a stain pad on a broom handle to even those areas out while I move on to the next section. I also have a 16' extension pole which can be used with a stain pad or brush to get the ledger board. I spend very little time on a ladder, no matter the height of the deck, and have never dreamt of using scaffolding. Since I am charging for the stairs and railings, I am in effect, adding to the overall price, but I do not add anything to my usual price.

I've read posts here criticizing Deckscapes, but I've never had a problem (oil-based semi-transparent). It is important to work quickly in a good order to avoid lap-marks and such, but that truly isn't so hard to do. Tomorrow AM, I will be using Ready Seal for the first time on a maintenence job. I hear it's idiot-proof, in which case I'll be in good shape.

What Ken said...moisture meter!!! I would think three weeks. IMHO, anything under 15% moisture, you're okay.

If telling your customers that you brush or roll "seals the deal," that says more about salesmanship than results. I spray and folow-up with a pad or brush, and I'd put my results up against anyone. The difference is that even working alone (at times) I far exceed 150 sq. ft. per hour. A 10x15 foot area (or about 37 linear feet of railing/spindles the way I estimate) in an hour??? It's funny how things can be different for different people. 95% of my customers are people who have never had a deck professionally done, so they haven't had any "damage" before. Strange that "alot" of yours have. I have only done around 100 decks, so maybe my time is coming, but overspray or poor results are not an issue with my customers.

It probably comes down to what products you use. I will use any Sherwin-Williams color. I do however try to help them toward the colors that give the most natural appearance, and that compliment their home. I agree that some people can be indecisive, so they sometimes need a little help. I have twice tried to talk people out of a color, and both times they were unhappy with the color they chose before I even finished the job. My response..."I was concerned about that color, but you insisted on it. I can re-bid the job with another color if you would like." No takers on that one. What are you using?

You need to know if it's solid stain or paint. Stain...no big deal, just strip it. Paint...run away!! Bring some of whatever stripper you're using to the home and try a small spot to see if it works.

That's why you may wait too long to stain a deck that is actually ready. I can tell when a deck is dry, but I can't tell when it's just barely dry enough. With a meter, you don't have to wait an extra day just to be sure.

The problem with the 2-3 day standard is rainy periods. You may be able to get one done, but might be using too conservative a time frame, depending on wind and humidity. Some decks will be ready in less time...some more. Go to Ebay and search for "moisture meter," and you'll find a variety. I look for under 15% moisture, 10.5% being ideal.

First car...'74 Plymouth Duster. Not the 340, but the 225 slant 6. I had a 300ZX twin Turbo with a Bassani exhaust and a chip, which I liked very much, but I think I like my current ride quite a bit too. Its a 2001 F-150 Super Crew, 5.4, 9 PSI ProCharger supercharger and Gibson SuperTruck exhaust. I've got about 430 HP now (350 at the rear wheels). It's a sleeper that will blow the doors of many cars, and almost all trucks! 0-70 is quite a ride in her!

There are also state taxes applied to fuel sales that are refundable in some states. In Missouri, I don't think the refund is associated with your income taxes in any way. It used to be a separate form for just that purpose (refund of highway taxes on motor fuel). Many airplane owners use this to get the tax money back for fuel used in their aircraft (if they use auto gas). If you don't have one, you NEED an accountant to help you! Don't be a cheapskate when it comes to your company's finances. A good accountant will save you more than he costs you!

Assuming you have at least a 4 GPM machine, go with either mix debated here and a 4010 tip. Keep far enough away from the deck so you do at least one full board per pass, and you'll be okay.

Of course! I didn't consider that you had already applied stripper when taking the photos. Looks similar to the RM I use after letting it dwell.

Beth, I can see knots and grain in the first two pics...that would tell me that is a semi-transparent stain. A curious color selection to be sure, but semi-transparent nonetheless. When I've seen failures of solid stain, it's been more like paint failing...cracking and chipping, not thinning, especially on the apron which would get very little wear and tear. The solid staind I use go on pretty much looking like paint...totally opaque.

Can you find a stainless steel bearing the same size as the ones that corrode? Just replace them when they need it!

Jeff, I had two of those situations last year (back to back)...hotties who wouldn't cover up while I worked. My helper was useless on the one that he was on. They were both very proud of how they looked, and for good reason. I figure they just like the attention, but it sure makes the job take a lot longer, doesn't it? ...oh, and I was so dumbfounded the first time I forgot to take the "after" photos, so I had to drive back the next day.

Try a 4010 tip...that gives you about 600 PSI from that machine and no worries about carving the deck up. If you get the right mix, that should be all you need to strip most decks. I also have some 4008 tips just in case I need a little more hitting power. Order three or four to save yourself the hassle of shooting one off into space and having to look for it so you can finish.

I didn't say I don't have a pressure gauge. I tried to say that I don't need one to measure the pressure when I can use the scientific method (or a simple chart based on the formula) to deduce it. No-one said anything about working by "feel." To me, the math is the math. Two plus two always equals four. Maybe you're more comfortable looking at a gauge. So be it. There are times when they are necessary (maintenance, etc...), they're just not needed to figure what PSI a given tip produces.

Can't you just do the math once, and use the proper tip (or keep several on hand with the knowledge of the PSI they produce)? Science RULES! I generally use a 4010 tip for all decks, which gives me about 600PSI. Here's a link to a nozzle chart at RPC: http://www.rowlettpressure.com/nozzlechart.htm I use the same machine for every deck, so why would I constantly check the pressure?

Barry, These boards are full of success stories about people just like you. There is no magic formula for success, it just takes hard work. All the resources you need, professionally speaking, are right here. Just imagine how you would feel if you had been wasting your spare time, instead of reaching higher by starting your own small business. I am a part-timer myself, but I sleep better at night knowing that I don't have to worry about being at the mercy of my employer. This really could be the start of something great for yourself and your family. Your wife loves you and naturally is concerned. I bet that the day you got married, she believed you could do anything. Ask her to have a little faith and play along while you try to get this thing off the ground. I'll be worth it.

I lived in St. Peters MO for a time...that's one exit east of O'Fallon. Small towns, but both just a stones throw from St. Louis. In fact, they are both very near to the best outdoor venue in that area, now known as the UMB Pavillion.

I use the 4x10 dosposable tarps that are plastic on one side and like paper towels on the other. Using one or two at a time, I (or my helper) clamp them on the outside of the rail while I'm spraying the inside and vice versa. I rarely need to tarp off a house. I do a few boards and the rails nearest the house by hand, then I either lean cardboard against the house, or more often, I use a big piece of cardboard as a shield. I spray with my left hand, and hold the cardboard between the tip and the house with my right, keeping it as close to the floor as possible. It may sound awkward, but it really isn't. I always keep large pieces of cardboard (take them from the dumpster of a rent-to-own place) with me and drop them on the concrete under any areas I'm concerned about. They are good for several jobs unless you kick a bucket over on them or something like that. They're heavy enough not to blow away, and easy to store. I also have invented the "Davis Mask" which I have yet to disclose publicly. I worked on it last year, and now that it's pretty much perfected, I will post photos this year of this time saving invention taken when I use it for the first time this spring. Aren't you all just waiting to see what it is??

Adrian, I'm glad to see someone else include Chet Atkins when they talk of great guitarists. I'm not a fan of country music in any way, but he is awesome. I'm a player too!

You talk of a finance company...why not your bank that you already do business with? I operate as a sole propriatorship, so I can just use my line of credit if I need something. Generally, the equipment costs associated with this business are not that great though. If you need less than 10K, I would just stash away some profits, but it outright when I could, and stay in the black.

Wouldn't hot water be a better solution than just going with a bigger machine? How about trying a hotbox for about $1100?

Ummm...Oxalic acid does not have a shelf life either before or after its mixed up. I don't think percarbonate does either, in powder from.