Deck Guy
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Posts posted by Deck Guy
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Yeah, I'd like to get my hands on about 6 oz. to make a sample board. I've got about dozen pickets left from an old fence that I have cleaned and neutralized, that I use to make stain samples. I made one with ESI's Timber Oil, and it looks great. Also no odor vs. Ready Seal.
It's easier to sell anything when the customer can hold a sample in their hand.
Um...Russel??? We know you're out there!!
Go Cards!
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For those of you with spray bottle, how long would stripper last in there? Figure if i mix a super strong mix, medium, and just a light cleaner in some quart spray bottles it should last a month or so. Will the product still work after being mixed that long?My problem is that the pump/trigger get eaten up by the stripper. I bought a "chemical resistant" spray bottle last year, and the second time I tried to use it, it leaked a nice SH mix all over my hands. On the other hand (or on this one), I can testify that SH stripper will retain it's strength for quite some time!
Go the easy-off route.
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Nice. Just what I need to hear.
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Try having an 18 year-old son!
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ha ha ha.. ken I've got a 13" planer I recently acquired I'll let him borrow!!!!Only if he sets the nails/screws first, I'll bet. I imagine the blades cost a pretty penny!
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Me either...in fact, it's just the other way around. People who want to prep it so Ican stain it. I would never do it either way.
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I have never had a problem getting enough water to feed my 4 GPM machine from a well or city water. I don't use a buffer tank.
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I wouldn't think that a normal housewash mix would damage the RS. You know, Chlorine, water,and soap. I would not use any degreasers like SH or D-limonene. Just keep it on the mild side, and don't hit the deck with any pressure.
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There are always going to be DIY people out there. It isn't a trend. It's just a fact of life. I don't worry about those folks...heck, I'm one myself. I'd much rather save the money and do something myself. If it is something I don't like doing, or don't have the time, I hire someone.I'm like Mike!
Honestly, how many decks have you done for someone with a pressure washer??
Like Steven Rowlett said before, having a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter either. Many of these people don't realize that even with the knowledge, they won't get the results we get because they lack the experience to apply the chems and finishes properly. It's insulting that they think they can do as good a job as I can after 100+ decks. Hell, you should have told her to do it herself and asked if you could come by with a camera afterwards to take a few pics for your book. You know, to show other homeowners how a job can go wrong! Gouged wood, lap marks, streaks, drip on concrete (although I should keep my mouth shut on that one).
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I use a 4010 and a 4008, just like those guys said. I feel like the stream from an x-jet isn't consistent enough across the contact area. It's thicker in some areas and thinner in others. Oh...and be very careful with the 4008. It helps when you need a little extra punch on good pressure treated lumber, but I wouldn't use it on cedar.
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Percarb would be fine.
About a 2% bleach solution with a squirt of soap works on cedar too. I don't neutralize after either of those.
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I used HD-80 for the first time this week, and it destroyed CWF! You'd have to be stripping some pretty tough stuff to need to beef it up. Luckily, I don't see many acrylics around here.
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Did you put salt on it? Salt will cause spalling, which makes the surface rough and uneven.
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Although I charge more (obviously) for those type railings, I find that they don't use that much more stain, the rails just catch what would have gone through to my tarp! They are definitely a PITA though, since it's hard to get the undersides of those shorter spindles really well, and they can be seen from below on an elevated dek.
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You guys are gonna make it really hard for me to use my shurflo rig, that's for sure. As far as the sample goes Ken...with two ringing endorsements now, how about you just pry that wallet open and order some??:lgbounces
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A flat deck on the ground with no rails...it's a dream come true!
Beautiful job. We also have very few exotics, and only 1 Ipe that I've ever seen. I guess we make up for it with a greater percentage of cedar then other places.
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he listed 2300 sq feet measuring every part of the wood. I don't waste my time calculating square foot on an inch wide spindle or id be bidding all day. sq foot on the surface, linear on the rails. Otherwise I could spend all afternoon making a 10x10 deck come out to have 1800 sq feet of wood surfaceI measure similar to Mark and spend the time selling the job, so it's not wasted time to me. I'm usually in and out in 20-30 minutes anyway.
Measuring like Mark helps me figure materials too. Like we've said before, we all have different methods of determining how many sq. ft. a deck has, so it's impossible to ever compare our price per square foot.
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Greg, That's a beautiful result. I guess once you develop a method and find the right materials, you can accomplish that. As for me, I'm still not willing to go there.
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I like it best when they start by themselves with an electric washer! They spend about 20 minutes scarring the wood, then go inside for an iced tea while they explain to the old lady that maybe they should call the fat guy (me) after all. I can't tell you how many I've done after they experimented a bit.
Don't let that one bother you. The only thing worse is if you lowballed it, and had to kick yourself in the a$$ the whole time you struggled with it.
BTW, I do mostly elevated decks, but don't use a ladder very often. I definitely don't use it while cleaning or stripping (use extension wand), and usually just to cut-in near the house on the outside when staining. There are better ways.
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Why do insist on buying locally?? Get what you need from someone who understands this biz, and who can help you in it's dilution and use. Particularly when it comes to chems, you will spend much more, and get less effective chems at any local store. Guaranteed! I can probably strip and neutralize a small residential deck for a total of $15, which is what you'll pay for one gallon of overpriced and ineffective stripper geared to consumers.
Read the threads in this section, and you will find mentions of many products from vendors who can have those same products to you in 2-3 days. Pressure Tek, Extreme Solutions, Rowlett Pressure Cleaning to name a few. (Sorry if I left anyone out)
I used F-18 from Pressure Tek, followed by oxalic acid to neutralize. If you go the route of caustics and acids, be sure you know what you're doing. They can hurt you, and damage surrounding structures, windows, and plants. I'm just not certain you can learn all you need from reading a few posts here. Call whatever vendor you choose, and let them help you. They all will spend whatever time it takes to be certain that you can work safely and effectively.
As for that deck...that's just water on it in the second pic. The customer wanted clear, but I told them it would just gray again if we went with that. I ended up using Sherwin-William Deckscapes Cedar Toner, and the customer loved it, although I can't help but think that there is something out there that might have let more grain show through, yet still prevented the wood from graying. Maybe RS Natural Cedar??? Anyway, if anyone reading has any suggestions on a finish for this type of wood, feel free to chime in. I haven't really found anything that does it justice.
Lastly, I am far from the guru of decks/fences here, or anywhere else. I shoot for about 30 a year, and am in my fourth year at it. There are guys here who do that many a month, and they have forgotten more that I know about it. Don't rush into anything. Spend some time reading every thread here you can find and you will prevent costly mistakes or damage to yourself or a customers property.
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Shane, you're a bigger man than I am. I would run away screaming from that one. Since I'm a part timer, I try to keep my jobs a little more basic, and no more than about six hours at a time on a jobsite.
I was going to post pics of my solid stain nightmare, but I can't seem to find them. I guess I deleted them at some point because they were just too painful to look at.
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You need to make it worth your while. I have failed to do as Ken suggests, and ended up working for peanuts. Test a spot before bidding.
The first deck I ever did was a similar job. I went to the newspaper to place my first ad, and the rep there asked for a bid. Of course I wanted her to think I knew everything, after all, I was Wolman Certified!
I think I got about $540, and spent the better part of three days. It was a white solid that was failing. I stripped and scraped and sanded, then went over it with a tan SW waterborne solid.
The HO told me last year that it still looked great (she's not my ad rep anymore). I've got pic's on my desktop, andI attachthem when I get a chance.
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I knew you were busting my balls. Still, I may want to crop that out before using it for anything.
I just did some playground equip for a Preschool (simple clean and clear sealer) to satisfy some overzealoous inspector, and will be dropping by with the bill tomorrow. The preschool owners are hooking me up with the building owner, and I'm hoping the building owner will bite on BDA'ing his cedar facade! There is space for rent, so maybe if he spruced the place up a bit...?
Cedar rocks!
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Ouch! Um...it's just more dry...well, maybe a little fuzzy! Actually it had fewer fuzzies than I seem to get with the western red cedar.
I think that was F-18 (very weak) and oxalic. It had never been treated before, so it was a snap, and was on the ground, which is a rarity for me. It was hot as hell the day I finished it, so I just got in the truck and drove off without taking pics. They were thrilled, and I got paid big $$ for my efforts. Win/win!
Owners' Manual for the parents of teenaged daughters
in The Club House
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It's cool she told you about it. Could be worse...