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Mike Stahmer

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Everything posted by Mike Stahmer

  1. I cant find the thread but a few of you wanted to see some decks I do here in San Diego with Readyseal time vs. wear. The pics attatched are a decks I did 3 years ago! The brownish deck is light brown on redwood near the ocean with sun all day and it has held up very well. The other deck is one we just cleaned and re-sealed with a Readyseal mix!
  2. Here's some pics of a redwood deck we refinished last week! It was cleaned, finished sanded and sealed with a readyseal mix! This deck is one of my favorites that I have ever done!
  3. Shane, I measure similar! Sq/ft of floor plus ln/ft rail! The arbor was also redwood! I had to do alot of covering and masking on this one! That seems always to take longer than anything but it has to be done! I still have yet to see a cedar deck down here! All the decks are either redwood or ipe.
  4. Thanks Shane! I have attached the best pic I have! The deck is near 2800 sq/ft! There is alot more deck that I cant fit into the pic to the right and below along with a Pergala! It was relatively easy to do and took about 3 days to finish. I wish it was mine!
  5. Hey Roger, I am definately going to get one of those! What size tip do you use for the stain! Currently my flow jet tips wont work because they are not quick connectable!
  6. Great work! What an idea! I have 100 cedar buildings to due an dthat would cut my time from ladders alot! Good job!
  7. Here's a couple of decks we did last week. I dont have a before for the larger one but it was nasty. The smaller one is RS light brown/cedar and the large one is RS dark red/cedar. Both are redwood decks in La Jolla, CA.[ATTACH]3878[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3879[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3880[/ATTACH]
  8. Pro-Restore Decks

    Thanks guys! John, what I meant by that is that I mix 3/4 dark red with 1/4 natural cedar and the same for the brown! It kind of adds a nice tone to it for the decks I do! I add the cedar deck I do!
  9. Pro-Restore Decks

    There are rails but they were taken off and repainted while we did the deck! They are black rod iron. It was kind of scary doing the outside edges of that thing!
  10. Shur-flo

    I recently switched from braided hose to a flexible sewer jetter hose from water cannon which is light weight and holds up really well! I have 2 50ft quick connected with a pumptec adjustable pump!
  11. Pro-Restore Decks

    Barry, I have a spray cart with an adjustable pump! Than I spray away! I also use the hurricane brush from Sunbrite when it is windy!
  12. "lab test"

    I dont notice any change of GPM with my unloader set low I dont think!! WHat is the point of having it if it doesn't serve the purpose! I dont understand how adjusting your unloader can damage a pump! I have been usning my same pump for six years with no problems and I have changed the pump oil 1 time! Go figure! I am not a power washer mechanic or expert but I would really like to know if GPM's change with the unloader adj and what is accually the best way to accomplish low pressure/high volume
  13. "lab test"

    That is pretty funny! I think we've all had those kinda days! I'm laughing my A** off! "A noose" LOL.
  14. "lab test"

    Mine is on th e machine but sure, you could mount it quick connected behind your gun! I know a couple guys that do that!
  15. "lab test"

    That is true! I just prefer my guage! On a redwood deck, there is alot of difference between what 900 psi and 1300psi can do! Trying to figure out where your at costs time, and possible more fuzzies that you have to remove. I just prefer to know exactly what I am cleaning at for reference etc! I have mine quick connected right after my injector so it isn't much trouble to use!
  16. "lab test"

    WHy would you not have one! I adjust the pressure often for different woods! It's only ten bucks and that way you can be more versatile and consistant with your washer. Have you ever not cleaned something else with yours? I use mine for various cleaning jobs and need to know what pressure I'm at for consistancy! Doing it by feel can lead to trouble one day when you gouge a deck because you cleaned concrete earlier in the day at another pressure!
  17. "lab test"

    Hey Pete, First off when cleaning wood, you really need a pressure guage and use as little as pressure as possible. Its alot easier to increase cleaner strength than it is to get all those fuzzies off. I usually never go over 1100 psi on fences and that is max. I also use a 40deg tip. With the proper cleaning agents applied, you really just have to basically heavy rinse it with the pressure washer. Also, using the proper tip when going down on PSI helps out. This way you can maintain high GPM with low PSI. I believe I use a 7.5 nozzle for wood. I can get 1000 psi and 4.5 gpm out of it I think!
  18. Sodium percarb and sodium hydroxide

    I do it! Carpet cleaners do it! The 2 are compatible and work fine together!
  19. I also downstrean all my chems. Once you figure out the ratios, it works like a charm! I use a %20 adj draw and adjust accordingly! I can get alot more product on the surface quicker. Around edges and the house, I use a splash guard.
  20. I was curious about others bid/sales strategies for giving estimates for wood care. What's your sales pitch if any? How do yo close? Do you call back after a week or so etc, etc! Personally, I kind of feel the customer and shoot the sh&***t with them. Ask them about themselves and make them feel comfortable with me. While I'm measuring etc, I let them look at my binder portfolio of pics. I usually go into why there deck looks so bad and how I can professioanlly get it looking good and tell educate them on wood and my techniques sealers etc. My average is about %70 success. I was just curious about others techniques!
  21. Oxalic Acid

    Ya, just a very light caustic! Or rinse the hell out of it. The problem is that even after rinsing, the surface will have a acidic PH. Only neutralize if you are going to use a brick sealer. If not, dont worry about it!
  22. I will hire Ken to! Your closing points are great! I would like to here more on that. I have never really closed like that. I usually at " think about it and give me a call". My new strategey will to close it like you! Very nice! I hope this thread will help people out! The most importmant part of wood care is getting the job! Usually when I faulter, it's at the end, I have been taking the approach of " I hope theyunderstand how good I am and realize what I can do for there deck and how better my services are". I need to stop assuming that and get an agreement right there!
  23. Oxalic Acid

    Let it dwell till the rust is gone! I would neutralize with something if you are going to seal them!
  24. Manual from Sunbrite?

    I have been doing wood care a long time and I purchased the manual for my new employees. It is really good, explanes everything you really need to know on proper techniques etc. I think it is very valuable!
  25. annual or quarterly?

    Quarterly is fine if you wish to go that route! If you are a Solp right now, you should incorporate if you are having large profits. You can nearly cut your tax payents in half or more this way and release liability of your company from yourself. Like I said, there are a ton of good books on this strategy. There is a reason all successfull copanies are corporations! If you set it up, you can represent all the board members yourself and pay yourslef a salary. If you have a business check card or business card, use it for all purchases. Sometimes I think CPA's can do you more harm than good. Remember, they are in business just like you! Anyway, you can streamline everything if you learn more about this side of the business.
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