plainpainter
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Posts posted by plainpainter
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Rick, what's the closest color in Readyseal that looks like this stain?
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Looks good! Do you worry about the readyseal running down onto that concrete foundation as it weathers?
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Here is a stain I have been dying to use, not what I am use to spreading. Don't know if this product is a parafinnic product, although I was told it has long oil alkyds - but it has drying issues and just soaks into the wood massively. I modified it somewhat to work - and it worked awesome! Just one coat hand application got results on this deck. As a sidenote - this little deck must be the hardest deck I have ever worked on in my career, just loads of difficulty factors that I didn't see coming. From painted trimmed railings/posts. To decking boards that were just covered by some solid stain, impossible to totally remove, and 3 feet long shards of wood constantly coming up when I tried sanding it and defurring it, and moisture problems that lasted for days and days and days and days....
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These decks, including one fenner posted have been very far off the ground like 12+ plus. How about one that is more in the normal range of only several feet off the ground?
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I modify the stain now, and I am thinking of putting the modified stain on half the deck and the unmodified stain on the other half to see if I am getting any more longevity. I hate to do this to a customer - but she seems cool with the product as is, after SPF, anything will make this lady happy.
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Here is a maintenance customer that I performed a restoration for back in Nov '09. Here are the pics of the deck prior to me doing a bleach wash and pressure rinse. Just curious if you guys think if this acceptable looking close to 21 months after restoration? Maybe I am being too hard on stain products - at least it washed up nice, will get those photos once the hurricane passes. I think the spread rate was about 115 SF/gallon on a wet-on-wet application, completely absorbed everything - deck is 12 feet off the ground.
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Jake,
You should love me, and I'll explain why. Because I am very vocal in alerting you to some very deep issues with your stain. Because there are many others, who not as vocal as me, do not appreciate your product and will never tell you. You will just quietly lose their sales and never know why.
I've told you about mildew - and you know I am not the only one. I've told you about how it doesn't hold to bleach clean at anything north of 1% - and nothing strong enough to clean the mildew. Have you done anything to address these issues?
Listen, you can hate my critique - but you can't change reality - if more contractors have the same experiences for themselves that I have had - they aren't going to stop buying the product because what I said, they're going to stop buying the product because of their own experience.
And I am honest - if someone came to me and said they had a miserable failure with your product on Fir - I'd tell 'em it had nothing to do with the stain and it's just endemic to that particular species of wood.
I know I have already lost customers using your product - I had a gentleman pay me handsome money restoring his hardwood deck, and I will say your product looks beautiful upon application. He told me that 9 months after I initially laid down the stain - 100% of it was totally gone - and that was the reason why he did not consider me for helping him out again.
So I will lay back with the critique - although I thought perhaps it may motivate you to improve your stain - because I think it has potential. In the meantime I will start another thread and show many of the decks I restored over the past 2 years from start to finish - using your product - and I will put my work against anyone I have ever seen on these forums.
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I mean how much sanding are you doing Dan? There's a company here that doesn't pressure wash at all they simply sand the wood down so far that it exposes all new wood. They use a film forming stain though, in the case of a penetrating oil if I was doing that method I would think a wash and brighten would be appropriate after a vigorous sanding.Well here is a typical deck, the boards on the far left are stripped and brightened, the boards in the middle are sanded, and then of course the boards on the right are stained.
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Daniel,I am of a particular mindset that after many years of doing this type of work, one has a fair and honest method of restoring and staining exterior wood. There is no holy grail. Merely competence and experience.
Rick - I thought I had a 'fair and honest' method of restoring wood, from what I can tell I think I sand a heck of a lot more than most guys here. But I am having difficulty with a certain stain made in California, it gets ruined with mildew in short time and it doesn't hold up to a maintenance wash {at least not one strong enough to kill the mildew growing on it} so I am kind of going out of my mind right now - especially when others say they have no problems with the product. Frankly, my decks look brand new just prior to staining - and just re-thinking my process to see if I could be doing anything wrong?
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Daniel,Between the years you have been doing this, and the obvious intelligence and education you possess, basic wood restoration should not be hard.
BTW - when did I ever say it was hard?
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Rick, I think it's healthy to question our methods from time to time. TWP/Gemini is a legitimate company - and they wrote something that was different from what I was doing. I've wondered in the past about the stripping/brightening process before my sanding. So I am trying something a little different from my usual methods to see if I get different results.
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There are 3 categories, new wood, old wood, sealed wood. The one I am referring to is sealed wood, since that is what I most come up against - having to remove a previous sealer. Then they say the entire surface is to be washed with a 50/50 bleach water solution and rinsed. Then the finish can be removed one of 3 ways - by using a chemical stripper and following manufacturers directions, by sanding of sealer by 60-80 grit, or by power washing. And if you take the sanding option - then they say to rinse the deck with water on two to three different days afterwards.
The new wood section said to let it weather between 4-12 months. then a bleach clean.
Part of me is thinking that in my efforts to turn out sweet work - I am actually revealing a surface of wood that actually should be chemically cleaned and pores opened again. I am experimenting with my own deck now - where I stripped/washed last year {didn't neutralize} and now a year later I am sanding it down everywhere - afterwards will give a percarb clean and acid bath - then stain.
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I believe that probably references those who physically sand and resurface the wood (no pressure washing), in which case you would want to wash and brighten the wood before staining.That's interesting, because I use a floor sander on a deck after stripping and brightening. You still think it needs to be washed again after using a floor sander with 40/60 grit pads?
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Gemini is the maker of TWP stains.
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I was reading some literature from gemini coatings about the prep of old wood - and they gave a few options, interestingly they say if you sand a deck down that you should rinse it with water on 2-3 different days afterwards. Anybody hear anything like this?
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They're probably using just percarbonate bleach. I know guys will acid adjust after oxygen type bleach clean - but I don't think it's really
needed. Maybe that's what they're doing
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I love it when homeowners think they can do the job, LOL. That deck is one instance where I would buy ReadySeal stain and flush all the bare wood spots.
Then I would let it sit for a year and strip it again - and again flush all the wood with ReadySeal. It will take 10 years, but eventually it will look pretty good.
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Thanks Charlie, I'll pm you the recipe
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Is it a different composition from the remainder of the line? Does it have more curing resins vs. seal oils?
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Jim - this Mahogany deck last year took in very little stain - I do sand all my work with a floor sander. I noticed with Mahogany there is this layer kind of dark 'scum' wood that remains even after a sodium hydroxide strip and acid balance. So I like to sand that layer off as much as possible before the staining.
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Jim - my experience with Mahogany and how oil it accepts is bi-modal. Absolutely some of the Mahogany decks I do take in more oil than pressure treated - but the other group of Mahogany takes in a lot less oil than pressure treated.
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Here is a photo from my front porch, stained it with this product - 4 months later it
more than a one coat application when I stained it a second time last September. And here she is now, the nice spot is where I kicked aside the placemat.So let's hear it.....GUESS THAT STAIN!!!!!!
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pressure treated doesn't need annual maintenance. My two year warrantee is a maintenance contract for pressure treated - but I guess I will have to shorten it for Mahogany. I don't have as much experience with hardwoods as other members - but I haven't found a product that doesn't last more than a year on Mahogany, unless it's a semisolid.
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Yeah I put warrantees on my work will do my customers right at the end of 2 years for a fraction of the price, but I have all these mahogany customers where my staining is literally just washed out at the end of 12 months. Not happy with stain longevity, especially since I never heard much complaints until you get to ipe. This never seems to be an issue with pressure treated - I am sick of this business, it's not my fault that staining products don't do what people want them to do.
TWP 501 Cedartone
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
Posted · Report reply
Are you buying the 500 series or 1500? Let me know, and I'll tell you how I modified it - although you're probably
more expert in this department than I am.