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sflasealcoatinginc

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Posts posted by sflasealcoatinginc

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Well i can premix a 5 gallon of sealer with pigment for a lower price than anyone sells clear sealer for....which is VERY economical....And on pavers only 3 colors will work..... theres no need for a pallet.. when adding color back to pavers you are not trying to match any specific color. Pavers are mixed in grey colors and white colors. All pavers depending on what color combination they include are made with 3 different colors. Red, Charcoal, or malt as a base. These are the only colors that are needed. Again... you are not PAINTING the brick.... you are simply applying a CLEAR sealer to pavers as you would any paver job. This clear paver sealer either has a hint of red/black/or malt color with the consistancy of say crystal light. I have saved many driveways by using this product, and saved many thousands of dollars people were goign to spend to replace their old pavers with new ones. I have not had one unsatisfied customer yet. :)

  6. Posted · Report reply

    It is Not waterbased. Its An Acrylic clear 30% solids paver sealer with Coloring added to it. It still acts as any clear sealer would it just has color. The % of color in the clear is undisclosed. It took me a long while and ruined my fair share of bricks and some donated patios getting the blend right its much more than 2% though :) The goal is to add color to the brick without making them look PAINTED or Stained. If you look at the pictures and did not see what they looked like before, you would think they were that color and have clear sealer. And my site is 4 years old and needs to be highly updated. I havnt touched it since 2004.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    This is Our private labeled tinted sealer. Will post more pics with diff colors later....these are 15 year old pavers....clear seal did not work....to much color gone out of the brick... solution.....a Clear / Tint clear sealer with Red pigment NOT A STAIN. You can still see the natural paver colors, just puts the red color back into the brick. Browns and Charcoal pics coming soon....border bricks were sealed with clear....so the border stands out. You can Pm me for pricing.

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  9. Posted · Report reply

    Point taken.....Ive never had very good luck ...and actually have fixed a couple driveways where a waterbased stain was put over a previous solvent based stain. Undertanding that both have the same acrylic, the only difference is the carrying agent. In all three cases where the water based stain was used, there was flaking of the new stain. So though it may be possible, i usually try to stay away from it. And that pic does look like acid stain btw lol

    Cody, I too am talking about concrete... I mentioned the other surfaces since the common situations of maintenance or recoating them often sees what yer saying in all its glory with things peeling or failing. But again I'll reiterate that those are sutuations of 'oil' and IMO does not apply here. Unless you tell me your seeing people having had used oil products on pavers or crete I have to disagree with you with no waterbornes over solventbornes...

    Concrete stain is generally an all synthetic product which is generally acrylic in a water carrier. Besides that we have acid staining as well as solvent borne and waterborne dyes. In the case of most synthetics the normal direction would be waterborne toppings over solventbornes unless your using the solids of the solventborne acrylics to lock the acrylic staining work in.(hence your term' melting'). However the solvent carrier evaps off and all that is left is a binder/coating that is fully compatable to a waterbased acrylic on either side of it..either underneith or on top. Is 100% acrylic. Again it is not oil.

    Although some would think it to be an acid job, below is an example of waterborne acrylic staining that is locked in (melted) with solventborne acrylic and then topped with waterborne acrylic.This is of course interior job but what should be noted is that the solvent based acrylic is tough enough to endure common wax stripping methods of the waterborne topping. I regularly care for thousands of feet of waterbornes that are on top of solvent acrylics, epoxyies, and poly's and never see the water product peel ever. In contrast though it would be rather easy to peel up or chip up some poly or epoxy if the surface was not prepped for enough grip. For most part all interior staining jobs are waterborne topped to help protect the work. Same can apply to exterior if proper product is used. There are some clear waterbornes out there that are toted as being tough enough and uv stable enough to go over exterior work. Am not done testing them myself though so I can't recommend them. I suspect that if they tough as they say they will not be readily strippable and therefore useless as a sacraficial topping of the solvents.

    In the case of solid exterior staining I would consider solvent borning over only an intact waterborne stain but if dealing with clears I would remove the waterborne product rather than trying or hoping for a clear finish. I say would cause I generally mess with the interior fixing or upkeep of existing or new coatings.

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  10. Posted · Report reply

    I dont deal with latex coatings or wood ect.... When i say waterbase over solvent... im talking more about pavers and concrete... When aplying a ssolvent over top of an old waterbase sealer job....the solvent will (melt) or blend itself into the previous coating givign it something to bond to. A water base product doesnt have this bonding property. It simply sits on the surface and sometimes may cuase it to peel. This is especially true when doing concrete stains. Sorry i forgot to clarify that... Oh and Scott Paul was dead on....I have many scars unfortunately on my legs from Dads lol so use it with cuation. Try spraying pepper spray on ur skin and leave it for 10 seconds and your about 1/2 of what dads feels like lol. And yes it gets pretty messy. I especially like the really thick strip jobs cuase it comes of in big flakes. I get excited about odd stuff like that

    I prefure to say you can not put a waterbase over top of an oil based product without proper prep.

    To be clear, generally speaking it is not advised to put a waterborne coating such as a latex paint over an oilbased coating/paint that contains the natural oils/drying oils without priming first. Such primers are an alkyd/synthetic that bind well to and traps the oil. The waterbornes of course bind well to such as there is no natural oils involved.

    .. This leads to a worthy mention that many if not most hard surface foot traffic coatings use synthetic resins/acrylics in a solvent carrier and can take a waterbased sacraficial coating just fine...Good luck finding a suitable waterborne clear meant for exterior use though.

    For most part it is common to place a waterborne over top of a solvent borne in interior applications.

    Cody, your statement for sure can hold true when speaking of penetrating oils for deck or perhaps the pavers but I'd like to ask what waterbased or solvent products do you see people doing together in the paver world that creates a no no situation? Is it mainly their using some waterbased sealer meant for interior use or is it an actual existing oil coating causing problem?..

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Your obviously quite a ways from me...i was up in melbourne last week for a job....I have a store IN delray beach...The stripping isnt hard if you know how to do it....I do about 2-3 strip jobs a week,,,,yes thats right ...did one yesterday.about 2200 sq ft..have another one tomorrow.about 1500 sq ft..i have soem posts on here with before after pics if u want to look through the archives. You cannot put a water base over top of a solvent #1.......#2 75% of pool decks are 1 " brick..... especially in florida where they had cool deck....concrete or chatt under. This is usually the cuase for the hazing 99% of the time. People coat sealer on like they are not supposed to and thats what happens. If they are tiles ( 1 inch brick) There is a very good chance it could happen again ...let the homeowner know about this. If there is no screen enclosure you should be good to go.... If there is....count on a mess. Dads stripper is usually priced from 119-125 per 5 gallon....i sell it cheaper than anyone @ 115 per 5 gal. you can give me a call anytime i can walk you through it step by step. :)

  13. Posted · Report reply

    #1 rule....get to know general contractors in your area....they can be your best friends... construction like anything is a small world...everyone knows everyone..... GC's can be your eyes and ears for upcoming projects...or companies doing them,.... Just to let you know...ive been in business for over 4 years now....over 150,000 per year and not one dime have i ever spent on advertising...its all word of mouth through the contractors and builders i have come in contact with through the years

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Just curious if anyone has used this sprayer for concrete/paver sealer...or any solvent base clear sealer?? Looks like it should work just like a pump spray does but just without the pumping. This is great becuase airlesses just dont work well for such thin sealers. Ive been looking for an LPHV pump setup that sprays just like a pump would. We roll most products on but sometimes i end up spraying.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Home depot sells phosphoric etcher.....im not sure what chem retailers are near you but if u have to you can get it there....its less harch than muratic on brick and masonry...and much more effective on lime and scale. spray on start diluted and work towards stronger....be careful on any pavers of using strong oxylic....as it brightens concrete it will whiten colored pavers

  21. Posted · Report reply

    With most houses you will have 4-5 gpm flow from the faucet. If you have a 100 gal tank you can start half full, hook up at the house and fill up while you're pulling lines and setting up then go at it. Remember that you will stop periodically and the tank will keep filling then, while you're working it will be filling at half the rate you are draining it.

    However, if you dont already have an 8gpm unit and you're plannning on doing mostly resi., you really should stick with 5.5 or lower. You will not see that much increase in productivity unless you are doing commercial work.

    Same here...... sometimes i find a house that has low water pressure,, but i just have to let the tank fill up.... i have 150 gallon tank and with the house hose hooked up i usually dont have a problem with my 8 gpm

  23. Posted · Report reply

    nice work..pour n restore would do a great job also... nt sure what comanies you have over there..

    Here are a couple of photos from a job completed last week.

    About 20 metres of oil staining on Tegula driveway. Drive had only been down about 5 months so owners not pleased at all. Someone had used the drive to turn around on.

    The before.

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    The after.

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    The stains took three cleans to finally get rid of the carbon shadowing.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Hey,

    The prob isnt getting surface cleaner up off the pavers.... the queston is about actually NOT having wheels for fear they will leave scuff marks on bumpy pavers....

    sfla,

    Sounds to me like all you need is some kind of wheels, instead of the casters, to keep the spinning mechanism up off the paver surface... you got plenty of pump.

    Maybe get either some go-kart wheels with a stout bolt for axle or maybe wheel barrow wheels... Pick the surface machine of your choice and take it to a welder and have him weld some forks on there in tricycle fashion so it's at a suitable level and go to town.

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