john@AEC

Hi All, I've been busy, busy, busy.... but finally have to stop for some help. I had a new rig custom built - no expense spared! It can push 21 l/min at 5000 psi etc, so I spent up big on a K9 unloader. The K9 has been awesome, but now it's not. The K9 has decided to cycle when the gun is closed (pressure in line all the time while bypass goes on/off/on/off...), after cycling for a while it will then stop, but there is still pressure in the line. Some-times it will even stick in bypass, while other times it actually works as it should. I've checked for leaks - none to be found; changed guns and surface cleaners - the same for all. The tech who built it all has pulled the K9 apart - found the rubber o-ring on the main plunger was worn - this was re-placed and re-greased. I have pulled it apart and it has been all clean. I have also checked the pressure. All this and still it does what it wants - which is not what it should. Has any-one had any experience with a K9 doing this? has any-one got any clues as to what else it could be? I found (via search) similar problems with K7's that were fixed with a smaller by-pass/return hose, do the K9's work the same way and have the same problem? I'll try putting vise-grips around the hose tomorrow as I have a 3/4" hose. Thanks for your thoughts.

Thanks Scott, restricting the bypass/return hose solved the cycling problem. I put vise-grips on the hose and kept closing tighter until the cycling stopped. I tested by removing the vise-grips and as soon as they were removed the cycling resumed, and as soon as the hose was restricted again the cycling stopped. This worked all day with no problems. As a permanent solution I think I'll put a tap in the hose line so the flow can be adjusted to suit. Thanks Paul, I've cleaned it and re-greased it (twice now) as well as replaced the worn o-ring. And now - off to work; one large driveway (exposed aggregate) and then three boat ramps.

Thanks Scott, I'll get the vise-grips out and try squeezing the return hose. Cheers

A squeegee, come on Rod, that's way too obvious (not to mention actual work) - we all want the "magic" way!

Great looking deck etc - another top job from Ken!

G'day All For those windows that are very dirty, and owners who like clean windows, I use a window cleaners mop (about 18" long on T-bar/swivel) while washing/rinsing the walls etc. I then spray window cleaner (carry it in a pump-up sprayer) and mop/rinse again. My other "trick" is bathroom cleaner (soap scum/water spot remover) to remove dried house wash and old dirt/mineral marks, especially from behind screens. We have had a bit of rain recently and I have extra water storage, so have used rain water for rinsing windows - not quite DI or RO, but it impresses clients. Cheers

because when he is dead he is dead and that's the end of it. he won't even know he's dead. so let him rot in jail; don't let him become a martyr for some cause... let him know he is suffering, let him know what he is missing out on, let him wait for the next family visit... let him suffer... or let him repent and apologise... and devote his life to making the world a better place - even from behind bars where does the new testament draw the line at with sin = death? and where should the criminal code draw the line?

stunning timber Rick the deck boards should be a foot wide for the full effect

G'day I've had success at cleaning away soap residue and water marks left after cleaning the house by using "bathroom cleaner". It is an acid formula used to remove, wait for it..., soap scum and water marks/minerals from baths/showers. Just spray, rub gently with a soft cloth, repeat as needed, then rinse thoroughly. I find spraying & wiping over with window cleaner helps remove the remaining residue. I found the tip here at TGS, white vinegar - an acid was also mentioned.

G'day I find gutter cleaning the most difficult to quote of all the jobs I do. There are just so many variables. * Space between gutter and roof, some are so small I can barely fit my gloved hand in. * Type of gutter hangers, some are on the inside of the gutter which catches debris, while some are on the outside. * Amount and type of debris in the gutter; dirt, small leaves, large leaves, small sticks and twigs, long branches. * Wet or dry, got to love the wet slop in the bottom - especially when it gets on the roof tiles/metal or on the face of the gutter. * Type of gutter guard, as most just trap dirt an leaves/twigs in the gutter, while some of the plastic ones bend and allow the debris to build up under the roof. * Slope/flow of the gutter, nothing worse than rinsing uphill. * Roof slope, I love an easy walk with a view. * Height, OH&S over here doesn't allow being on (I guess about) 7' or higher roofs with a fall arrest system. *Slope of ground, ladder use can get tricky if it is steep, or if there is a garden. If the debris is dry then I use the leaf blower and a broom handle to break up the densely packed leaves. The dry mess is easy to clean up off the ground. If the debris is wet then scoop it out by hand - it's messy enough. Better still I send clients to a local company with an enormous vacuum cleaner built especially for cleaning gutters - he does a better job for less money (I don't mind giving up the work as the customer thinks all the more of me for providing them with a better result and saving them some money). These are a couple of my favourite gutters.

Gotta love those jobs that grow and grow, especially a referral that you know your not quoting against anyone.

Any-one looking for a change of scenery?:sunshine: I found this on e-bay Mobile High Pressure Water Cleaner - eBay Outdoor Power Equipment, Tools, Gear, Equipment, Gardening, Lawn Care, Home. (end time 18-Aug-08 19:24:11 AEST) There are some nice beaches near there...

Yes, that engine sounds like it was out of a Land-Cruiser and should be towing the trailer... G'day Carlos, things are busy over here - we've had some rain so people are catching up on all the cleaning that wasn't done as the dams plummeted to 15% of capacity. The gov made every-one get registered, plus things having been very quiet for a couple of years, has chased many (low-ballers?) away. An association was formed (ECIA) to negotiate with the government over the extent of water restrictions, previous to that there was nothing specific. It's a beautiful spring day... and now it's off to clean a mechanics workshop and the paths at a small shopping complex.

Over here I get it for between 55c & 65c a litre from pool supplies or hardware - just bring in my drums and fill up as many as I need from their bulk tank (always fresh as refilled weekly). To compare prices- it is about 4 litres per gallon ($2.20 - $2.60 per gallon for chlorine) while diesel is about $1.70 per litre ($6.80 per gallon) and rising.

Hi You ultimately need to pay yourself (and your labourers) by the hour (plus expenses and profit for the business), so what ever way you work it out you need to get a consistent hourly rate. Measuring the job is a good start - particularly for flatwork. Houses can get complicated - site access, gardens, simple rectangular building vs complicated shapes with lots of corners, number of windows and screens, size of eaves, overhanging trees which give shade but promote mould growth, flat ground vs side of hill, single level house vs split level, part 2 level or all 2 or more level, wall material, is it covered in just mould or also dirt and other atmospheric fallout - especially oily soot from diesels... and the list goes on. This is where GGF (General Gut Feeling) comes in, you know what will make the job take longer or use more products, but only experience will tell you how much extra THAT job will use. The other side of the argument is "What is the job worth to the client?", but that is a whole new discussion.

Well folks, thanks for you input/thought starters. I did buy the business. How much did I pay? less than they wanted, but more than I should have (the difference will be recovered by selling duplicate equipment & vehicle). My domestic work has been quiet (it's our slow season now) but with the new business I've been regularly working 5 & 6 days a week and regularly exceeding my income target. I'm generally booked up 3 to 5 weeks ahead, so have lost many opportunities because I can't do it "by Friday". Thanks again.

I prefer EFT/internet banking which many clients also prefer, other wise I take cheque (I know where they live and have only had one bounce in 4 1/2 years - and they where very apologetic - even paying the bounced cheque bank fee) or cash (although the "discount/no tax for cash" get's wearying). A few people ask to pay with CC, but understand that I'm a very small business and can't justify the costs.

Brilliant work Ken (& crew)

G'day All I've just spent a few rainy hours (finally) typing up my "Information for Residents/Owners/Managers" and would appreciate some proof reading/feedback. Do people actually read these? Does it turn people off, or give them confidence? Would customers prefer to remain ignorant of risks and be told "it'll be ok, never had a problem before"? Have I missed anything (apart from "no other contractors/workers on site")? Is it too long and difficult to read? This is not meant to be a contract, just an information sheet, or should it become part of something more? Your time is appreciated instructions.pdf

just don't ask me how to spel

G'day Ken Mate, those are great looking decks. But as for the vid. - lots of great pictures, needed for an emotional response (but not sure what type of music needed, apart from agreeing with others that "that ain't it") and excellent text, gives enough information to get people interested. - I found all the movement - panning and particularly the fancy transitions - difficult to follow and therefore a waste of time. It's an opportunity for the viewer to switch off. Remember, you are selling timber products and not video skills. - what product are you selling? have the names and/or packages "WoodZotic" and "Restore-A-Deck" appear more often (even as a watermark) so that the viewer is in no doubt what products they should look for (names, especially out of the ordinary ones, can be difficult to remember). The more you see and hear them the more chance of remembering. Also, same with the contact details - making me wait until the end might be too long. - "..you can preserve its beauty.." "its" should it be "it's" as the ' shows ownership/belonging, as in the beauty belongs to the deck - the subject/the it. - ditch the blonde, she won't take it personally, same for the boy with the headset. Would you consider being in the vid yourself? There is a school of thought that it will add credibility."Hi, I'm Ken and I love timber decks. When new they are full of colour and warmth, smooth to walk on, a touch of nature's beauty for the end of a long hard day. But they don't stay new for long enough. The sun and rain will strip the colour and oils from the timber. Soon your deck is grey, moisture soaks in and mould grows, it then splits, splinters and warps, nails start popping out... just not what you paid all that money for. I've been restoring decks professionally for many years and have seen all the problems and tried all the products. But I wanted a product that would protect the timber for longer as well as look great for longer... - "WoodZotic works well on all timbers" I'd hope it works better than "well"!; you are looking for an emotional response to kick-start the purchase action, so be brave and use something like "great", "looks great", "looks fantastic", "protects and beautifies all"... - some of your text has capitals and full stops, but most doesn't. Either is fine but needs to be consistent. ... Geez, he's a picky so and so... sorry, it's teacher in me... "and if it's not done by Monday you will be picking up rubbish at lunch time!"

Hi Beth, it must have been late here then (11:30pm). No Ben & Jerry, not even Tom & Jerry, but still plenty of great stuff (I bought some recently but my 9yo didn't like it - all the more for me - because it was "too creamy"). I was going to have a Nutella thick-shake, but the kids had drunk all the milk - it would have gone straight to my hips anyway. May be I could have used Woodzotic instead. And now back to the main topic, which was... actually I've forgotten...

"congratulations", to which Kevin promptly replies "thanks, it was nothing really"

Thanks Beth Are you up early or am I up late? may be that's why ice-cream seems more interesting than timber finishes. I've just had a wander of the web and... global trade... It turns out that your Cabot is not our Cabot's. They were once, but not any more. Yours was bought by VALSPAR in 2005 and ours has been owned by ORICA since the 1990's. They have the same colour tin, but that's it. That's enough history, I think I'll go have that ice-cream now. Good night/morning.

I tried looking at cabots.com but it's an icecream place - much more interesting:lglolly: As for hardwood, most of our trees are hardwood - slow growing and HARD, maybe not IPE but none the less great for cooking on. But for decks, there is a lot of SE Asian rainforest timber such as Yellow Balau (great for splintering) and Kwila (great for leaching red tannins for months and months and months) as it is cheap. cheers