john@AEC

It really is the only way, I don't see many houses with siding, but a lot with acrylic paint on timber, and brushing is the only way to get the oxidation off. Very little pressure is needed with a soft brush, but it works.

Hi Folks I've never used a x-jet or similar, but use the d/ser for almost everything (mine will draw 23% theorectically - but remember the less pressure the more draw, so changing tip will change draw rate - larger tip = less pressure = more draw; smaller tip = more pressure = less draw; and as tip size decreases the draw rate will decrease untill there is no draw. As yet I have not tested my tips to measure the pressure and actual draw rates through my hose.) My machine pumps 15 litres/min (between 3.5 & 4 gpm) at up to 3600 psi, and my hose is 30 metres long (about 100 feet). I dilute the 10% sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl ?) 1:1 with water/detergent and then downstream to get about 1% on the house. I use #40 or #50 for this. This is strong enough for me as I don't see the walls of mouldy vinyl that some of you do, if I need extra strength, more dwell time or a second coat will usually do it. If very bad (or for driveways) I don't dilute the NaOCl -just add detergent straight to it so I get about 2%. To get the mix high (2+ stories) I use a 0040 on my regular wand, if I need more height I have extensions. I have been thinking of a 0540 to reduce the pressure at the wall/gutter, but the flattened hose barb sounds like it will do the job. I used to have a twin lance with the twist adjuster, but the twist mechanism didn't last long enough for me. I have a twin roll over nozzle - with the ball to block the other nozzle, but find that the pressure when soaping with the #40 or #50 isn't enough to hold the ball in place to block to other nozzle so I get spray from the second tip as well, which gets messy (but I imagine there are others out there that will). These days I just carry the different tips in my pocket - very versatile if some times frustrating. To rinse I either swap to a #15 or #10, but this increases pressure - not always good for rinsing and makes more mist so I don't get the distance with the rinse water, or use a #25 or #40. To do this I will walk back to the machine and turn off the chemicals, some will say this is time wasted and they are probably right, but as my hose is only 100' it isn't unbearable. My brass d/s is holding up well, but the O rings need replacing - they are viton but they will wear/compress allowing the ball to jam, rather than decompose. The ceramic ball is in perfect condition after six months, where a chromed steel ball wouldn't last 6 hours. That's my experience with d/sing, I too started with searching and reading and searching and searching here at TGS and then bought a heap of tips to play with. I still play and experiment as I'm still finding bits of jobs that need something different due to height, distance, chem strength, pressure concerns etc...

Yes Rod Imports from state-side are expensive. A couple of years back our dollar was going to be renamed a "peso" as it was only buying about 50 c US, thankfully now it's nearer 80c. It's the whole import/export thing - if our dollar is weak against the green-back then our exports are cheap to buy, but imports are expensive; and as our dollar strengthens the exports get more expensive and imports come down. The costing of our manufactured goods is more complicated tho', as we don't have the great pool if illegal immigrant non-union labour to keep prices down and historically we have had (or so I recall) higher levels of taxation. Roll on the free, but caring, market...

G'day Mark With any house wash the windows will get wet with over-spray, and the corners of the windows is a favourite spot for spiders and wasps so the glass gets wet and dirty. Most insect screens are in need of a clean - the ones I see are mounted from inside (1/3), clipped on from outside (1/3) or fixed security screens (1/3). Many people aren't worried about the windows as the kids/dog make a mess all over the inside, or they are covered by curtains/blinds most of the time, or it rains often enough to keep them clean/dirty. I will always wash screens (in place), sills, frames and window glass as I'm doing the walls and then come back and rinse again with window wash. I do discuss with the owner removing screens and wiping windows, but only about 20% go with that, although they usually want the insides done as well (which is where most of the mess is).

G'day Rod, sorry about the delay in replying - I got busy, and then forgot where this was.... My insurance came up for renewal last November and the quote went up about 15% (to $1600 for $5mil + equip + stock), so I phoned around - and got even bigger numbers. One broker told me that the $5mil minimum was because people kept sueing each other and the premium was so high as there must have been some (big) claims in the industry. As for equipment costs... I read posts of people complaining about equipment prices and just roll my eyes... I have a 13 hp 3600 psi 15 l/m (3.5 gpm?) pull start with 2:1 reduction gearbox mobile machine (in hot dipped galvanised frame) and a new one is worth $4300. My 20" s/s surface cleaner would cost about $2,000 new. A standard 1504 s/s tip is $19, while something odd like my 4010 is over $40 and a special order. Quality screw connectors are about $30 each. I have been thinking about upgrading the pump to 2? hp 21 l/m (5.5 gpm?) + hot water, but they are $12,000 +, and the hose reel to go with it is $400 +. I recently paid $550 for 20m (66 feet) of AlfaGomma Super Tuff (? black/grey abrasion resistant) hose (included machine crimped ends - which are compulsory). At least pool chlorine is only 55 to 65 cents per litre (about $2.20 to $2.60 per gallon) petrol averages about $1.15 per litre ($4.60 per gallon) which is cheaper than milk and beer ($12 to $19 a six pack). But life goes on, and in 2 weeks I'll be kicking back with a week beside the beach - surf, BBQ, beer... and family Cheers

Wasn't laughing at the time.... Recently washing a big/multi level house to clean it up as it was for sale. While washing the first wall/eaves/facia some water got into a light mounted on the eaves, usually nothing happens as it is fixed firmly and sometimes a little water gets in and short circuits the lights or whole house, but this time it was a DIY light fitting that on closer inspection, wasn't fixed securely to the eaves - so lots of water got in and it caught fire, flames about 1 foot long and a big black soot stain and of course melted fitting and wires. The owner saw it happen and didn't seen concerned, but I told her to get an electrician to remove and inspect the fitting and wiring. But she didn't. Later, the electricity went out again, this time the husband lost half an hours work on the computer. This may have had something to do with the electricity meter/fuse box, on close inspection, hanging a quarter inch off the wall - only held in place by the electrical wires. The husband wanted to know what I was going to do about the burnt light. I attempted to explain that it wasn't fitted properly and he should call the electrician who fitted it. I had to restate several times that it wasn't my fault, if anyones it was the electricians (but they could't remember his name) and as for the power going off, the electricity box wasn't mounted properly or some water got between wall planks or around window frames or... While he accepted it wasn't negligence on my part he looked like he was prepared to make a scene so I got in first and offered him $50 off, which he accepted, initally. He still hadn't called an electrician. Later he decided that we should go halves in the cost of repair as it wasn't his fault so why should he have to pay. I could only repeat that it was his house and he hired the electrician and it wasn't my fault either, and some times these things happen; and restate that the $50 was for the inconvenience. He paid in cash and I left with him threatening to sue for the repairs and his lost work time, which he informed me was more than the what he paid me. To which I could only say "You do what you think you have to." And that is the last I heard from them. The house is for sale and they moved overseas a few days later.

G'day Jeff I work alone - so do it all - quotes, purchasing, maintenance, marketing, accounting and even the actual cleaning... In a 45 hr working week I would, maybe, charge out 30 hours; and out of 52 weeks in a year I expect only 40 weeks of work (4 weeks holiday, 2 weeks for public holidays, extra days on school holidays....). So, this year I expect to charge out about 1200 hours (as against 40 x 52 = 2080 hours if I was back on salary). Not a lot is it? add expenses and savings/superannuation and health insurance/workers comp and..... and the hourly rate needed is going up, up, up...

Hi Beth, Rod and others The Rekrete is slow acting and needs to get into the pores of the concrete. My suggestion is to do the usual - lots of degreaser and hot water under pressure, then wait a few days (or longer if it is cold) for more oil to rise from deep within the porous concrete and repeat with the degreaser and hot high pressure water. If lots of oil keeps coming out it may be worthwhile repeating a third time. Degreasers with citrus oil are good at getting the oil to float - especially if kept wet. There are also degreasers with oil eating enzymes & bacteria available, but with all these time, moisture and warmth are needed - which means fencing the area and keeping it wet for days/weeks. When you are done with the degreaser and hot water, let it dry thoroughly and then apply the Rekrete. The Rekrete needs to get into the the concrete, so it is important to remove as much dirt (that the oil has stuck) as possible, this way more Rekrete can get into the concrete. The enzymes in the Rekrete will slowly break up the hydrocarbons, while the powder will (partially?) cover the deep down carbon/soot/dirt etc. You will need to reapply the Rekrete at least once more, after a week or so. Clever move getting a waiver, as there are no miracle cures. Make sure you use the attorney wisely - they're not very good absorbents and they talk too much.

Great job Hot Shot, rust removal seems easy compared to video. Was it over spray that killed the grass??:lol:

Hi Buck Welcome When downsteaming it is the low pressure that allows the injector to draw in chemicals. I get the low pressure by using a #40 or #50 tip for spraying the chems, but generally, the lower the pressure the more suction, more chems injected. My set up (15 litres/min ~ about 4 gpm & 3600psi) will still draw chems with a #20 tip. I often wash/rinse with the #20, so need to return to pump to turn off injector. You will need to experiment with your gear to find out which tips draw chems, and how much, and be aware of this when washing/rinsing.

Hi Buck Maybe it was a dual lance - one gun/trigger into a twist valve with two lances, or just a dual nozzle holder on end of single lance. Did you see the spray pattern change?

G'day Chris I also use one of Mobi Clean's 20% injectors (variable rate - wide open) and get heaps of draw. I've not had a problem with strength at wall, rather have thought of decreasing strength to save chem. My machine is 3600psi, 15litres/min (about 4 gpm), I usually spray with a #40 or #50 tip. One day I'll get around to testing the actual draw rate. My tanks are in the truck and the pump is mobile and my hose is only 150', so to get more distance from the truck I have also connected the 12v to the chem tanks and then to the downstreamer, again I haven't tested the chem flow, but "think" it is slightly higher again. Are there any obstructions to your line? do you have a ceramic ball & viton seal? (the others will corrode/swell etc and jam in the housing - been there done that sworn a lot) Does your soap thicken the mix? Cheers

G'day all Has anyone ever cleaned Limestone? From what I can find out, it is best to use a tiny amount of non-ionic detergent and gentle water. But what about on this, its the wall above the BBQ - black with grease. It looks disgusting. The limestone is hand split - so very rough and porous. Has anyone any clues on what to use? I'm thinking that I'll have to use my usual degreaser and rinse lots and lots to ensure that the stone is clean, as I can't find a specialist product over here. Thanks

Looks great I like the simple, factual, no nonsense information and photos. Cheers

G'day I've had my new 12v pump for a few weeks and now it has started to leak through the diaphragm and into the gears. The pump is a Flojet 2100-122 (60 psi, 2gpm, viton/viton). It is mounted vertically (motor up). I use it pump a mix Sodium Hypochlorite/TSP and water/detergent (at between 1% & 5%). It is usually flushed with clean water during the day and at the end of the day. Has anyone experienced a viton diaphragm leaking after a few weeks use? I know they are not indestructable, but... I have contacted my supplier and the manufacturer, but thought I should try the experts as well! Any advice/clues/winning lottery numbers will be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks John From the roofers/suppliers, I was under the impression that they would last - especially with viton. I have a rebuild kit, I just can't get it apart (corroded together). Cheers

Hi I estimate the time it will take and apply my hourly charge. Most jobs I can do with the leaf blower and some hand cleaning. Last week I did a large house with full gutters in 3 1/2 hours, though most are about 2 hours. My record is 7 1/2 hours sitting on the roof and cleaning by hand. These gutters had leaves and sticks etc piling up on the roof, there were plants/grass growing in the gutters, the roofers had left only a small gap between the roof line and the gutter edge so half of the mess was actually under the roof metal, and, it was a wet sloppy mess. I have passed on quite a few jobs recently as they were high and the owner was obviously not going to pay for the time/safety gear. Cheers

G'day Rick I do a lot of places with old timber window frames, and have decided it's better to be safe than sorry. So I tell the owners that the windows and doors will leak (around the frame and around the glass pane/putty). I prefer the owners to be home to wipe up leaks as they happen and then open windows to let frames dry, or, if they can't be home, then at least put old towels on inside window ledge. I've had no problems as owners all understand the joys of living in a home with character and history.

G'day The minimum around here is $5million for public liability, and some government/big corporate contracts want $10million. :lgmoneyey

G'day Mike I clean a lot of acrylic paint over timber and it can also oxidise badly. The only way to remove the oxidation is with physical pressure, I use a soft broom and brush every panel by holding the broom steady and walking the length of the wall. Somebody mentioned car paint oxidising and the only way to remove that is with physical pressure (polishing). While brushing the vinyl will remove the oxidised layer and it will look clean & bright, it also exposes a fresh layer of vinyl ready to oxidise because it has no protective coat. Once the paint (and it seems the same with vinyl) is so badly damaged it is a case of learn to live with it, or spend up big and repaint/replace. And the lesson is - use the best quality to start with and wash often. Sorry not to have better news.... Cheers

You folk just crack me up.... it's late, I need my beauty sleep, but here I am.... I can honestly say that I've never not done up the safety chains, but as for the jockey wheel... it's sure seen some miles.

G'day We are about to to level 4 restrictions (water storage is at about 27%) although the proposed restrictions still allow me to work, BUT there is, I feel, a community reluctance to get the house/driveway washed. Domestic hose use is banned and we are being encouraged to have shorter showers etc, fit water saving taps/washing machines, install rainwatwer tanks (will the gov't subsidize the price of beer so we don't waste water by drinking it?????). Business has been quiet, but still getting by. Cheers

Hi Guys I've had a few locals ask me to turn the pump off over the years, once was at 5 am on Sunday LOL!!!! The most recent has been at about 1 am on a week day in an area that was commercial/industrial, but as it is near the CBD has become residential. I'm glad to read that the pump can be made quieter with a new exhaust, may be a motor bike system would be better as they have a lot of packing and are designed for small single/twin cylinders? Or next time I'll just say "At least it's not a two stroke!!!" Cheers

Thanks Dan for the tip on Tergitol, as rinsing, especially windows, is my biggest drama/time waister. Does the TSP affect aluminium? as most homes out my way have aluminium window frames (some are powder coated, but many are plain). Cheers

don't ya just hate the way digi cameras eat bateries!!! 5 days will allow the oil to soak in quite deep, how deep depends upon the the surface finish etc.... keeping the stain wet with (citrus based?) degreaser and water for a day or three will help the oil rise to the surface (as oil floats on water). thoroughly wet the stain and about 12" around, then place a wet (old - or ugly given by mother in law LOL) towel over, then cover with plastic to stop drying. after a few days soaking do the usual, as you did at start, to wash off the top layer of oil. repeat this until no more oil rises. All that stuffing around should remove oil, but as for angst/rage - tell builder to find person/vehicle who dropped oil and pour sump oil on drivers seat/steering wheel/glove box, this should calm rage/bring on theraputic laughter - especially if videoed