john@AEC
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Posts posted by john@AEC
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Thanks Ken, a great read
To answer your question
YES! amongst other things.
The reasons are complicated... too complicated for me...:2eyes:
and it is struggle to accept that sometimes "near enough is good enough", that there are "horses for courses" and it's "good enough for a sheep station"....
I cope by looking for what the customer wants, as opposed to the best that could possibly be done given unlimited resources and time, and looking ahead to all the other things that need to be done that day. There are times when I have to force myself to walk away, still thinking "just another 5 minutes....", knowing that it would really be "just another hour"...
And now to watch TOY STORY on tv with the kids...
John
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G'day
I'll disagree and advise you to set it all up for when you are busy - while you have time is the time to invest the time in an efficient set up. There's no fun in trying to find time to build the efficient set up when you are too busy to have any spare time.
You don't have to fill the tank.
Keep the hoses as short as possible.
Put a filter between the water tank and the pump for "just in case" as well as the filter before the tank.
Don't have the water inlet/return to the tank directly above the outlet to the pump - when the level is low the incoming water can create turbulence and allow bubbles to be sucked into the pump.
... slow now... it's a fact of business that the first year or so is slow and this is why many businesses close. Your offer of labour for learning is a wise move - better to learn from some-one else's mistakes than have to make them all yourself (like I have). The second year is when it will take off if you can get most of your first year jobs as repeats - make sure they can find you (advertising, business cards, fridge magnets etc) or better still send them a postcard with a personalised reminder "hey... it's been a year since I washed your house, has the mould grown back yet?" then offer to do the job for the same price as last year - not having to visit for a quote save time and time = money.
And finally... there's very little good luck, just lots of hard/smart work, so keep your eyes and ears open.
Cheers
John
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I'm starting to think that the more Lic's and services, the more likely u r to become a 1 stop shop. Most people are either cheap, or lazy. I don't want the cheap ones. I'd rather cater to the lazy (comfortable) ones. They just want some one they can trust. Won't rip them off, tell them what will help, and will provide a service, at a reasonable rate.
Way to go Richard... doing more for each customer means less customers needed and you can focus your marketing on a smaller area - same spend but seen in more places and then less travelling which means more chargeable hours per week... especially good if you can work where you live. Just make sure there is a return on your investment - all that equipment and the vehicle to carry it around in costs.
Cheers
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G'day Michael
The questions you are asking - of yourself and the wider community - are all important questions that we should be asking frequently. Remember, we are not just "house washers", we are entrepreneurs first!
Last week I was asked by a caller "Are you an owner/operator?" because this person only employed "owner/operators". In my part of the world this is a common sentiment, as many people want the commitment and care that only an owner operator can bring - and, fortunately, they understand that this costs. (not trying to put down the crews of the people who are here, but you all know the time and effort in selecting, training and supervising employees)
Michael, don't worry about the "splash and dash" crowd, they serve their market and you serve yours. You have the time and are willing to use it to clean the awkward parts, re-do the very dirty, rinse thoroughly and most importantly - make the customer "feel good" about you and the quality of your work.
John
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G'day Ken
Top job - love to see a job done properly!
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G'day Mike
Always include everything from gutter to ground in a house wash - it's going to get wet anyway, so do it properly. The people in my area don't like surprises - "Oh no, the gutters are extra... sorry, the insect screens are extra... no, sorry the awning will be another $50..." so I am upfront about doing everything.
As Ken explained - you can have different ways of doing things for different results which take extra time so therefore cost extra - typical example is windows & screens; do you remove the screens? do you brush/mop the windows? and then rinse with 'pure/demin' water? or squeegee/towel dry?
When you are deciding what technique to use to wash the house you must always think of the result/quality of work and your standards. You don't want to lower your standards lest you get known for those standards. There are times when I explain to the owner that it needs to be done a certain way - usually brushing oxidised or heavily soiled painted boards - to get a decent result. You don't want the owner to not be happy and call you back or tell their friends about the poor job you did.
Cheers
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Hi
My s/c is a 20" ss, originally with grease-able bearing by BE.
If you get a grease-able bearing (it will have a grease nipple on the top) give it lots of grease regularly - or better still attach a self greaser (spring loaded canister full of grease). I greased mine "regularly" but still have worn out two bearing in three years, one was so badly worn that the entire assembly had to be replaced (very expensive!). My final solution was to replace it with a sealed Mosmatic swivel which has lasted three big years and is only now starting to wobble and leak.
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Thanks Scott, restricting the bypass/return hose solved the cycling problem. I put vise-grips on the hose and kept closing tighter until the cycling stopped. I tested by removing the vise-grips and as soon as they were removed the cycling resumed, and as soon as the hose was restricted again the cycling stopped. This worked all day with no problems. As a permanent solution I think I'll put a tap in the hose line so the flow can be adjusted to suit.
Thanks Paul, I've cleaned it and re-greased it (twice now) as well as replaced the worn o-ring.
And now - off to work; one large driveway (exposed aggregate) and then three boat ramps.
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Thanks Scott, I'll get the vise-grips out and try squeezing the return hose.
Cheers
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Hi All,
I've been busy, busy, busy.... but finally have to stop for some help.
I had a new rig custom built - no expense spared! It can push 21 l/min at 5000 psi etc, so I spent up big on a K9 unloader. The K9 has been awesome, but now it's not.
The K9 has decided to cycle when the gun is closed (pressure in line all the time while bypass goes on/off/on/off...), after cycling for a while it will then stop, but there is still pressure in the line. Some-times it will even stick in bypass, while other times it actually works as it should.
I've checked for leaks - none to be found; changed guns and surface cleaners - the same for all. The tech who built it all has pulled the K9 apart - found the rubber o-ring on the main plunger was worn - this was re-placed and re-greased. I have pulled it apart and it has been all clean. I have also checked the pressure. All this and still it does what it wants - which is not what it should.
Has any-one had any experience with a K9 doing this? has any-one got any clues as to what else it could be?
I found (via search) similar problems with K7's that were fixed with a smaller by-pass/return hose, do the K9's work the same way and have the same problem? I'll try putting vise-grips around the hose tomorrow as I have a 3/4" hose.
Thanks for your thoughts.
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The topic of this thread: Any suggestions on how to leave windows looking clean after pressure cleaning a houseI am amazed no one mentioned a squeegee!
Rod!~
A squeegee, come on Rod, that's way too obvious (not to mention actual work) - we all want the "magic" way!
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Great looking deck etc - another top job from Ken!
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G'day All
For those windows that are very dirty, and owners who like clean windows, I use a window cleaners mop (about 18" long on T-bar/swivel) while washing/rinsing the walls etc. I then spray window cleaner (carry it in a pump-up sprayer) and mop/rinse again. My other "trick" is bathroom cleaner (soap scum/water spot remover) to remove dried house wash and old dirt/mineral marks, especially from behind screens.
We have had a bit of rain recently and I have extra water storage, so have used rain water for rinsing windows - not quite DI or RO, but it impresses clients.
Cheers
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because when he is dead he is dead and that's the end of it. he won't even know he's dead.
so let him rot in jail; don't let him become a martyr for some cause... let him know he is suffering, let him know what he is missing out on, let him wait for the next family visit... let him suffer...
or let him repent and apologise... and devote his life to making the world a better place - even from behind bars
where does the new testament draw the line at with sin = death? and where should the criminal code draw the line?
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stunning timber Rick
the deck boards should be a foot wide for the full effect
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G'day
I've had success at cleaning away soap residue and water marks left after cleaning the house by using "bathroom cleaner". It is an acid formula used to remove, wait for it..., soap scum and water marks/minerals from baths/showers. Just spray, rub gently with a soft cloth, repeat as needed, then rinse thoroughly. I find spraying & wiping over with window cleaner helps remove the remaining residue. I found the tip here at TGS, white vinegar - an acid was also mentioned.
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G'day
I find gutter cleaning the most difficult to quote of all the jobs I do. There are just so many variables.
* Space between gutter and roof, some are so small I can barely fit my gloved hand in.
* Type of gutter hangers, some are on the inside of the gutter which catches debris, while some are on the outside.
* Amount and type of debris in the gutter; dirt, small leaves, large leaves, small sticks and twigs, long branches.
* Wet or dry, got to love the wet slop in the bottom - especially when it gets on the roof tiles/metal or on the face of the gutter.
* Type of gutter guard, as most just trap dirt an leaves/twigs in the gutter, while some of the plastic ones bend and allow the debris to build up under the roof.
* Slope/flow of the gutter, nothing worse than rinsing uphill.
* Roof slope, I love an easy walk with a view.
* Height, OH&S over here doesn't allow being on (I guess about) 7' or higher roofs with a fall arrest system.
*Slope of ground, ladder use can get tricky if it is steep, or if there is a garden.
If the debris is dry then I use the leaf blower and a broom handle to break up the densely packed leaves. The dry mess is easy to clean up off the ground.
If the debris is wet then scoop it out by hand - it's messy enough. Better still I send clients to a local company with an enormous vacuum cleaner built especially for cleaning gutters - he does a better job for less money (I don't mind giving up the work as the customer thinks all the more of me for providing them with a better result and saving them some money).
These are a couple of my favourite gutters.
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Gotta love those jobs that grow and grow, especially a referral that you know your not quoting against anyone.
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Yes, that engine sounds like it was out of a Land-Cruiser and should be towing the trailer...
G'day Carlos, things are busy over here - we've had some rain so people are catching up on all the cleaning that wasn't done as the dams plummeted to 15% of capacity. The gov made every-one get registered, plus things having been very quiet for a couple of years, has chased many (low-ballers?) away.
An association was formed (ECIA) to negotiate with the government over the extent of water restrictions, previous to that there was nothing specific.
It's a beautiful spring day... and now it's off to clean a mechanics workshop and the paths at a small shopping complex.
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Any-one looking for a change of scenery?:sunshine:
I found this on e-bay
There are some nice beaches near there...
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Over here I get it for between 55c & 65c a litre from pool supplies or hardware - just bring in my drums and fill up as many as I need from their bulk tank (always fresh as refilled weekly).
To compare prices- it is about 4 litres per gallon ($2.20 - $2.60 per gallon for chlorine) while diesel is about $1.70 per litre ($6.80 per gallon) and rising.
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Hi
You ultimately need to pay yourself (and your labourers) by the hour (plus expenses and profit for the business), so what ever way you work it out you need to get a consistent hourly rate.
Measuring the job is a good start - particularly for flatwork.
Houses can get complicated - site access, gardens, simple rectangular building vs complicated shapes with lots of corners, number of windows and screens, size of eaves, overhanging trees which give shade but promote mould growth, flat ground vs side of hill, single level house vs split level, part 2 level or all 2 or more level, wall material, is it covered in just mould or also dirt and other atmospheric fallout - especially oily soot from diesels... and the list goes on. This is where GGF (General Gut Feeling) comes in, you know what will make the job take longer or use more products, but only experience will tell you how much extra THAT job will use.
The other side of the argument is "What is the job worth to the client?", but that is a whole new discussion.
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Well folks, thanks for you input/thought starters.
I did buy the business. How much did I pay? less than they wanted, but more than I should have (the difference will be recovered by selling duplicate equipment & vehicle).
My domestic work has been quiet (it's our slow season now) but with the new business I've been regularly working 5 & 6 days a week and regularly exceeding my income target. I'm generally booked up 3 to 5 weeks ahead, so have lost many opportunities because I can't do it "by Friday".
Thanks again.
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I prefer EFT/internet banking which many clients also prefer, other wise I take cheque (I know where they live and have only had one bounce in 4 1/2 years - and they where very apologetic - even paying the bounced cheque bank fee) or cash (although the "discount/no tax for cash" get's wearying). A few people ask to pay with CC, but understand that I'm a very small business and can't justify the costs.
Question for those that know about ratios
in Chemicals & Safety
Posted · Report reply
G'day Fellas
Just can't let this one go by.... In a previous life I was a Mathematics teacher.... and have taught this topic and studied the misconceptions many, many times.
RATIOS ARE NOT FRACTIONS :banghead:
repeat after me "RATIOS ARE NOT FRACTIONS, RATIOS ARE NOT FRACTIONS...."
Ratios compare quantities.
Fractions describe an amount in terms of "parts of the whole".
1:4 reads "one part is compared to four parts" - there are 5 parts in total (1 + 4 = 5). The units (gallons, pounds, miles) must be the same on both sides.
1/4 reads "one part out of a total of four parts" - there are four parts in total and I have one part.
4/4 reads "four parts out of four parts", being the whole thing, or 100%.
So,
1:4 is not the same as 1/4.
One gallon of chlorine added to four gallons of water, is not the same as one quarter of the solution is chlorine.
And today's gold star...
goes to Daniel.