john@AEC
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Posts posted by john@AEC
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G'day
What is the EPAs' position on washing over water? If it is "nothing down the drain but rain" and "no crap in the creek" what do you do when washing over the water?
I've just done a quote for a pontoon/dock (over salt water river) and was told by the EPA that (weak) sodium hypo-chlorite would be acceptable as it will break-down quickly with out leaving/causing any nasties. Any other cleaning solution was unacceptable. I won't be oiling it so I didn't ask about oil dripping into the water.
Just curious, as while searching I found a lot of product & service suppliers mentioning "EPA approved method" but no actual description.
Cheers
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Thanks for the thoughts and replies
I'll try and get out there during the next week and have another good look at it - especially the splintering and how deep the mould is.
Yes, the builder says it was just straight linseed oil, so no additives. Thanks for the tips on resealing products - I was thinking a film product might help, or at least keep applying oil untill no more will soak in. Sikkens looks great when new but it doesn't last well (our climate would be similar to Texas), would Flood's Spa'n'Deck work?
Thanks again:lgbow:
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Hi Shane
That's correct, building started last Sept/Nov and the decking boards were completed in mid December.
The owner wants the builder to replace the worst of it... BUT... he's too busy with the next big job to even complete this one, let alone do fix ups.
As for stains and oils... there is Cabot's, Feast & Watson, and Intergrain (all made by Orica) plus a couple of others made by the other big international paint company, and a couple of small time independants. Flood have recently started pushing Spa'n'Deck - and some of the pro's are using it. I've started using a locally made product, it's great to be able to meet the owner & scientist - the company only does timber protection products.
Thanks for the thoughts
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G'day
A friend of mine had a deck built around the pool over summer (that's winter to you) and ....
The builder coated the timber, some parts twice, soon after laying it, with Linseed Oil - a vegetable oil, from the seeds of the Flax plant. Being a vegetable oil it is great food for mould. And guess what... is that mould growing in those boards? or is it tannins etc reacting with the Linseed Oil?
But wait there's more... the decking boards are splintering, and I mean SPLINTERING. Not those annoying little ones, these are more like spears that get stuck in the soles of your feet (1/4 to 1/2 inch long and very painful, especially when the last piece won't come out).
Does anyone have any clues as to what could be causing the timber to split/splinter?
This last summer has been drier and milder than average, although there were still more than a few hot days (100F +) and heavy storms, the deck faces north (into the sun - that's south to you).
The timber is "Yellow Balau" - a hardwood from South East Asian rainforests (http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/hardwoodsqld/13214.html).
Any help will be appreciated, as it is a shame to see such a great deck ruined.
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Hi Alan & Liz
I had a look at the data sheet for "Good As Gold" - the important line is the last one "Disinfectant - Quaternary Ammonium Chloride". You should get the MSDS to see if there are any other potentially dangerous chemicals.
"Quaternary ammonium chloride (didecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) - A flammable liquid. Corrosive. An irritant to the eyes, skin, upper respiratory tract. May cause central nervous system depression. Ingestion may cause pain, swelling, breathing difficulty, convulsions. Ammonium chloride is harmful to aquatic life in very low concentrations."
Your expending chemical tank is possibly due to a reaction between the Sodium Hypochlorite and the ammonium in the "Quaternary Ammonium Chloride".
This is listed on a data sheet for similar products.
"CHEMICAL DANGERS:
The substance decomposes on heating producing toxic and corrosive fumes including ammonia, chlorine and nitrogen oxides."
"Forms irritating cloramine gas when combined with chlorine-containing products. Fumes can cause irritation of the eyes, respiratory tract."
"Chlorine (including sodium hypochlorite,Clorox) - Strong oxidizer. Produces toxic chloramine gas when mixed with ammoniated cleaning products."
I wouldn't be mixing them together again, too dangerous. They do the same job - kill living things, so there really isn't any need to.
Stay safe
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Hi Jeffery
I've cleaned several hardcourts that have been unused for a long time and then became covered in mould etc. They are easy enough, but don't expect miracles.
Try and find out what type & brand of coating has been used, as well as how old it is. Then check with the manufacturer for cleaning methods, but the ones I have contacted only have regular maintenance guidelines. Some coatings have a very limited life span.
The surface is probably an acrylic paint or similar - just very thick, and like all acrylic paints will break down in the sun. The pressure from your surface cleaner will tear away the broken-down/oxidised acrylic - you will see the particles in the rinse water. It is very difficult to get an even finish, there will be lots of overlap marks. You could try using a broader tip (and smaller oriface to maintain pressure) to reduce this.
To help remove the mould and dirt apply your usual driveway mix. I find breaking the court into quarters keeps it manageable.
Rinsing is the big time killer; as the court is (meant to be) flat there is no natural drainage - just random flows. You will probably end up rinsing several times, as dirty water always flows to where you have just cleaned and rinsed.
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Hi
I have seen many houses covered in ivy, but have not found a way to get the dead bits off. Physically scraping them off doesn't work very well as they get into the paint, which is OK if the building is going to be painted.
I've not had a problem (so far) with home owners expecting miracles - after all, they are the ones who let the plant grow feral.
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For mildew and algae, no brushing required. For oxidation removal, either from degradation of the siding from UV exposure or as previously mentioned above...brush.~
It really is the only way, I don't see many houses with siding, but a lot with acrylic paint on timber, and brushing is the only way to get the oxidation off. Very little pressure is needed with a soft brush, but it works.
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Hi Folks
I've never used a x-jet or similar, but use the d/ser for almost everything (mine will draw 23% theorectically - but remember the less pressure the more draw, so changing tip will change draw rate - larger tip = less pressure = more draw; smaller tip = more pressure = less draw; and as tip size decreases the draw rate will decrease untill there is no draw. As yet I have not tested my tips to measure the pressure and actual draw rates through my hose.)
My machine pumps 15 litres/min (between 3.5 & 4 gpm) at up to 3600 psi, and my hose is 30 metres long (about 100 feet).
I dilute the 10% sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl ?) 1:1 with water/detergent and then downstream to get about 1% on the house. I use #40 or #50 for this. This is strong enough for me as I don't see the walls of mouldy vinyl that some of you do, if I need extra strength, more dwell time or a second coat will usually do it. If very bad (or for driveways) I don't dilute the NaOCl -just add detergent straight to it so I get about 2%.
To get the mix high (2+ stories) I use a 0040 on my regular wand, if I need more height I have extensions. I have been thinking of a 0540 to reduce the pressure at the wall/gutter, but the flattened hose barb sounds like it will do the job.
I used to have a twin lance with the twist adjuster, but the twist mechanism didn't last long enough for me. I have a twin roll over nozzle - with the ball to block the other nozzle, but find that the pressure when soaping with the #40 or #50 isn't enough to hold the ball in place to block to other nozzle so I get spray from the second tip as well, which gets messy (but I imagine there are others out there that will). These days I just carry the different tips in my pocket - very versatile if some times frustrating.
To rinse I either swap to a #15 or #10, but this increases pressure - not always good for rinsing and makes more mist so I don't get the distance with the rinse water, or use a #25 or #40. To do this I will walk back to the machine and turn off the chemicals, some will say this is time wasted and they are probably right, but as my hose is only 100' it isn't unbearable.
My brass d/s is holding up well, but the O rings need replacing - they are viton but they will wear/compress allowing the ball to jam, rather than decompose. The ceramic ball is in perfect condition after six months, where a chromed steel ball wouldn't last 6 hours.
That's my experience with d/sing, I too started with searching and reading and searching and searching here at TGS and then bought a heap of tips to play with. I still play and experiment as I'm still finding bits of jobs that need something different due to height, distance, chem strength, pressure concerns etc...
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Yes Rod
Imports from state-side are expensive.
A couple of years back our dollar was going to be renamed a "peso" as it was only buying about 50 c US, thankfully now it's nearer 80c. It's the whole import/export thing - if our dollar is weak against the green-back then our exports are cheap to buy, but imports are expensive; and as our dollar strengthens the exports get more expensive and imports come down.
The costing of our manufactured goods is more complicated tho', as we don't have the great pool if illegal immigrant non-union labour to keep prices down and historically we have had (or so I recall) higher levels of taxation.
Roll on the free, but caring, market...
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G'day Mark
With any house wash the windows will get wet with over-spray, and the corners of the windows is a favourite spot for spiders and wasps so the glass gets wet and dirty. Most insect screens are in need of a clean - the ones I see are mounted from inside (1/3), clipped on from outside (1/3) or fixed security screens (1/3).
Many people aren't worried about the windows as the kids/dog make a mess all over the inside, or they are covered by curtains/blinds most of the time, or it rains often enough to keep them clean/dirty.
I will always wash screens (in place), sills, frames and window glass as I'm doing the walls and then come back and rinse again with window wash. I do discuss with the owner removing screens and wiping windows, but only about 20% go with that, although they usually want the insides done as well (which is where most of the mess is).
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John,G'day mate!
I knew a guy who lived in Melborne (a friend, actually he was from Christ Church in New Zealand) who told me that told me things are a bit inflated over there price wise and that exchange rates for US currencies are outrageous.
Does this account for the higher insurance prices that you posted or am I misinformed?
Rod!~
G'day Rod, sorry about the delay in replying - I got busy, and then forgot where this was....
My insurance came up for renewal last November and the quote went up about 15% (to $1600 for $5mil + equip + stock), so I phoned around - and got even bigger numbers. One broker told me that the $5mil minimum was because people kept sueing each other and the premium was so high as there must have been some (big) claims in the industry.
As for equipment costs... I read posts of people complaining about equipment prices and just roll my eyes...
I have a 13 hp 3600 psi 15 l/m (3.5 gpm?) pull start with 2:1 reduction gearbox mobile machine (in hot dipped galvanised frame) and a new one is worth $4300. My 20" s/s surface cleaner would cost about $2,000 new. A standard 1504 s/s tip is $19, while something odd like my 4010 is over $40 and a special order. Quality screw connectors are about $30 each. I have been thinking about upgrading the pump to 2? hp 21 l/m (5.5 gpm?) + hot water, but they are $12,000 +, and the hose reel to go with it is $400 +. I recently paid $550 for 20m (66 feet) of AlfaGomma Super Tuff (? black/grey abrasion resistant) hose (included machine crimped ends - which are compulsory).
At least pool chlorine is only 55 to 65 cents per litre (about $2.20 to $2.60 per gallon) petrol averages about $1.15 per litre ($4.60 per gallon) which is cheaper than milk and beer ($12 to $19 a six pack).
But life goes on, and in 2 weeks I'll be kicking back with a week beside the beach - surf, BBQ, beer... and family
Cheers
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Wasn't laughing at the time....
Recently washing a big/multi level house to clean it up as it was for sale. While washing the first wall/eaves/facia some water got into a light mounted on the eaves, usually nothing happens as it is fixed firmly and sometimes a little water gets in and short circuits the lights or whole house, but this time it was a DIY light fitting that on closer inspection, wasn't fixed securely to the eaves - so lots of water got in and it caught fire, flames about 1 foot long and a big black soot stain and of course melted fitting and wires.
The owner saw it happen and didn't seen concerned, but I told her to get an electrician to remove and inspect the fitting and wiring. But she didn't.
Later, the electricity went out again, this time the husband lost half an hours work on the computer. This may have had something to do with the electricity meter/fuse box, on close inspection, hanging a quarter inch off the wall - only held in place by the electrical wires.
The husband wanted to know what I was going to do about the burnt light. I attempted to explain that it wasn't fitted properly and he should call the electrician who fitted it. I had to restate several times that it wasn't my fault, if anyones it was the electricians (but they could't remember his name) and as for the power going off, the electricity box wasn't mounted properly or some water got between wall planks or around window frames or...
While he accepted it wasn't negligence on my part he looked like he was prepared to make a scene so I got in first and offered him $50 off, which he accepted, initally. He still hadn't called an electrician. Later he decided that we should go halves in the cost of repair as it wasn't his fault so why should he have to pay. I could only repeat that it was his house and he hired the electrician and it wasn't my fault either, and some times these things happen; and restate that the $50 was for the inconvenience.
He paid in cash and I left with him threatening to sue for the repairs and his lost work time, which he informed me was more than the what he paid me. To which I could only say "You do what you think you have to."
And that is the last I heard from them. The house is for sale and they moved overseas a few days later.
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G'day All
I've just spent a few rainy hours (finally) typing up my "Information for Residents/Owners/Managers" and would appreciate some proof reading/feedback.
Do people actually read these?
Does it turn people off, or give them confidence?
Would customers prefer to remain ignorant of risks and be told "it'll be ok, never had a problem before"?
Have I missed anything (apart from "no other contractors/workers on site")?
Is it too long and difficult to read?
This is not meant to be a contract, just an information sheet, or should it become part of something more?
Your time is appreciated
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G'day Jeff
I work alone - so do it all - quotes, purchasing, maintenance, marketing, accounting and even the actual cleaning...
In a 45 hr working week I would, maybe, charge out 30 hours; and out of 52 weeks in a year I expect only 40 weeks of work (4 weeks holiday, 2 weeks for public holidays, extra days on school holidays....). So, this year I expect to charge out about 1200 hours (as against 40 x 52 = 2080 hours if I was back on salary).
Not a lot is it? add expenses and savings/superannuation and health insurance/workers comp and..... and the hourly rate needed is going up, up, up...
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Hi Beth, Rod and others
The Rekrete is slow acting and needs to get into the pores of the concrete.
My suggestion is to do the usual - lots of degreaser and hot water under pressure, then wait a few days (or longer if it is cold) for more oil to rise from deep within the porous concrete and repeat with the degreaser and hot high pressure water. If lots of oil keeps coming out it may be worthwhile repeating a third time. Degreasers with citrus oil are good at getting the oil to float - especially if kept wet. There are also degreasers with oil eating enzymes & bacteria available, but with all these time, moisture and warmth are needed - which means fencing the area and keeping it wet for days/weeks.
When you are done with the degreaser and hot water, let it dry thoroughly and then apply the Rekrete. The Rekrete needs to get into the the concrete, so it is important to remove as much dirt (that the oil has stuck) as possible, this way more Rekrete can get into the concrete. The enzymes in the Rekrete will slowly break up the hydrocarbons, while the powder will (partially?) cover the deep down carbon/soot/dirt etc. You will need to reapply the Rekrete at least once more, after a week or so.
Clever move getting a waiver, as there are no miracle cures. Make sure you use the attorney wisely - they're not very good absorbents and they talk too much.
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Great job Hot Shot, rust removal seems easy compared to video.
Was it over spray that killed the grass??:lol:
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Hi Buck
Welcome
When downsteaming it is the low pressure that allows the injector to draw in chemicals. I get the low pressure by using a #40 or #50 tip for spraying the chems, but generally, the lower the pressure the more suction, more chems injected. My set up (15 litres/min ~ about 4 gpm & 3600psi) will still draw chems with a #20 tip. I often wash/rinse with the #20, so need to return to pump to turn off injector.
You will need to experiment with your gear to find out which tips draw chems, and how much, and be aware of this when washing/rinsing.
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Hi Buck
Maybe it was a dual lance - one gun/trigger into a twist valve with two lances, or just a dual nozzle holder on end of single lance.
Did you see the spray pattern change?
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Question for Keth....You say you downstream 5 gallons of SH 12.5% and 5 gallons of housewash detergent....what draw rate do you get on your downstreamer?? I can only get a 10 to 1 ratio on mine and at that rate the SH hitting the wall would only be 0.6%. You would have to have an injector that gets 5 to 1 to get in the range of 1.25% SH hitting the wall.
Where do you get your injectors? I tried the one from Mobi Clean that claims a 20% draw rate which would equate to 4 to 1. I doubted that I would be able to get that good a rate but I thought I would at least get better than my current 10 to 1 ratio or 9%. I was wrong and the best I can still get is 10 to 1. Just curious if you are doing something different to get a better draw rate.
Chris
G'day Chris
I also use one of Mobi Clean's 20% injectors (variable rate - wide open) and get heaps of draw. I've not had a problem with strength at wall, rather have thought of decreasing strength to save chem.
My machine is 3600psi, 15litres/min (about 4 gpm), I usually spray with a #40 or #50 tip.
One day I'll get around to testing the actual draw rate.
My tanks are in the truck and the pump is mobile and my hose is only 150', so to get more distance from the truck I have also connected the 12v to the chem tanks and then to the downstreamer, again I haven't tested the chem flow, but "think" it is slightly higher again.
Are there any obstructions to your line? do you have a ceramic ball & viton seal? (the others will corrode/swell etc and jam in the housing - been there done that sworn a lot) Does your soap thicken the mix?
Cheers
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G'day all
Has anyone ever cleaned Limestone? From what I can find out, it is best to use a tiny amount of non-ionic detergent and gentle water.
But what about on this, its the wall above the BBQ - black with grease. It looks disgusting. The limestone is hand split - so very rough and porous.
Has anyone any clues on what to use?
I'm thinking that I'll have to use my usual degreaser and rinse lots and lots to ensure that the stone is clean, as I can't find a specialist product over here.
Thanks
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Looks great
I like the simple, factual, no nonsense information and photos.
Cheers
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Thanks John
From the roofers/suppliers, I was under the impression that they would last - especially with viton.
I have a rebuild kit, I just can't get it apart (corroded together).
Cheers
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G'day
I've had my new 12v pump for a few weeks and now it has started to leak through the diaphragm and into the gears.
The pump is a Flojet 2100-122 (60 psi, 2gpm, viton/viton). It is mounted vertically (motor up).
I use it pump a mix Sodium Hypochlorite/TSP and water/detergent (at between 1% & 5%). It is usually flushed with clean water during the day and at the end of the day.
Has anyone experienced a viton diaphragm leaking after a few weeks use? I know they are not indestructable, but...
I have contacted my supplier and the manufacturer, but thought I should try the experts as well!
Any advice/clues/winning lottery numbers will be appreciated.
Thanks
Red Mud Stains on Tile - HELP!!
in Construction Cleaning
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G'day John
To get rid of the gooey stuff try Orange oil (lots of commercially made products available) or if you can get it Eucalyptus oil. Apply straight and lightly scrub, then wipe up with detergent/degreaser on cloth.
If acid won't remove the mud stains, an alkali that I've had a lot of success with at removing/bleaching difficult organic stains is Potassium Hydroxide, I get it as a specialist tile cleaner or commercial dishwashing machine liquid.
Aren't the worst stains always for an important client!!!!
Good luck with it