Sun Brite of Maryland

We carry quite a few of them but probably not a huge selection like you are looking for. We do carry Hansen's though.

I copied this off of our website, I hope it helps! Pressure Washer Comparison Guide From Sun Brite Supply. You face a lot of decisions in choosing a pressure washer. Don’t be intimidated by all of the terms and specifications, but recognize what facts you need to know to make a good decision. The most important thing to know is that your pressure washer must match the work you intend to do. If you pressure washer is too large or powerful, you have wasted money and you could damage what you are cleaning. If your pressure washer is too small, it will take too long to do the work and you will lose money and time. That is the simple truth. Let’s start by looking at the different choices you will have to make when buying a pressure washer: 1. Gasoline vs Electric pressure washers 2. Hot Water vs Cold Water pressure washers 3. PSI vs GPM vs CU ( Pounds per square inch vs Gallons per minute vs Cleaning Units ) 4. Belt Drive vs Direct vs Gear Driven pressure washers 5. Portable vs Stationary pressure washers 6. Wobble vs Axial vs Camshaft Pump 7. Heavyweight vs Lightweight pressure washers 8. Home Model vs Contractor Model pressure washers Gasoline vs Electric: Most machines are either powered by an electric motor or a gasoline engine. A few are diesel powered. Electric machines require little maintenance and are very quiet. They require a source of power nearby (because the cord length is limited). They can be used indoors without any problem. You can have electric units with lots of power, but most electrics are small units designed for specific jobs, such as mobile detailing or deck cleaning. Gas units, on the other hand, can be extremely portable. They are designed for outdoor use and can be built to deliver tons of cleaning power. They can be somewhat loud, but your customers expect to hear some noise while you are working. Gas-powered machines are used for cleaning concrete (called “flat work”), deck cleaning, fleet work, kitchen hoods and ducts, or any other pressure washing job that requires portability. Hot Water vs Cold: Most pressure waters are cold-water portables. Cold water, along with the right cleaners, can do most jobs. Some jobs, like removing heavy grease or stripping off finishes, just go better with a hot water pressure washer. Hot water will enable you to cut about 30% off the time it takes to do ANY job. The pressure washing business is all about time, not spending less on your tools. If you have the right tools, you can compete with other contractors and get done with each job in the shortest amount of time. Many new pressure washing contractors make the mistake of under-buying their tools to save money. Most experienced pressure washing contractors over-buy their tools and make the difference back in no time with the added power and features. If all you are going to do is clean and seal wood, just buy a cold water machine. If you are washing anything else, such as houses or hoods or trucks or concrete, consider a hot water pressure washer. If you already own a cold water machine and want to have hot water, you can call us and buy a “hot box” which will heat the water coming out of your cold machine. PSI vs GPM vs CU: First of all, let’s explain the acronyms. PSI stands for Pounds per Square Inch. This is the pressure rating of your machines. GPM stands for Gallons Per Minute, the flow rate of your pressure washer. CU stands for Cleaning Units, which is PSI multiplied by GPM. All of these terms refer to the power of your pressure washer. To clean effectively, a machines must provide ‘agitation’ to scrub off the dirt and ‘flow’ to rinse it away. Think of the pressure (PSI) as the agitation that is applied to the surface that you are cleaning and think of the flow (GPM) as the rinsing force that carries the dirt away. Homeowner machines tend to run between 1200 and 2700 PSI. Contractor-grade pressure washers tend to run between 3000 and 5000 PSI. More power means faster work, but more power also means more potential for surface damage. Wood decks, for example, are often cleaned at pressure as low as 300 PSI because 3000 PSI will rip the wood to shreds. Most contractors will settle for 3000 PSI because that amount of pressure is adequate for most jobs. Truth is that most contractors would prefer to have 3500 or even 4000 PSI if they could get it. GPM is much more important to most contractors than PSI. Since most contractors use cleaning chemicals to do most of their pressure washing work (the fastest method) their job becomes one primarily of rinsing rather than washing. The cleaners do all of the cleaning, and the contractor rinses the dirt away. When you think about that method, you realize that the more flow you have, the faster the job is rinsed. Therefore, most experienced pressure washing contractors recognize that GPM is more important to them than PSI. PSI (power) will help you break the chemical bond between the cleaning surface and the dirt. Once the bond is broken, the extra PSI does nothing to speed up the cleaning time. The higher the GPM, however, the more surface area a machine can clean. For example, a 2000-PSI model with a 2 GPM flow rate might clean approximately 5-7 square feet per minute. If the same unit had a 3 GPM flow rate, it might clean 8-10 square feet in the same amount of time. In this business, contractors sell “the finished job”. The contractor who gets that job done in two hours might be making $50 per hour. The guy who gets the same job done in one hour makes $100 per hour. Which one do you want to be? Dealers of homeowner machines like to refer to CUs when they show you machines. This number is the result of multiplying the PSI by the GPM. If you have a pressure washer with 3000 PSI and 4 GPM, you have 12000 CUs. For homeowner pressure washers, this is a good comparison of the power you are buying. For professionals, CUs have little meaning. GPM is most important, and PSI is less important, and the CU formula makes them both equal. The best solution is to talk to a dealer who really understands what you are trying to pressure wash because he will steer you to the right GPM and PSI for the job. Belt Drive vs Direct vs Gear Driven: The gasoline engines used for machines all run at around 3450 RPM. In a Direct Drive pressure washer that pump is bolted to the engine shaft, so it spins at the same 3450 RPM. In a belt drive unit, the engine is tied to the pump through pulleys and a belt and the speed of the pump is reduced to either 1700 RPM or 1400 RPM. In a gear-driven machine, the engine delivers power to a transmission that in turn spins the pump at a reduced speed (1700 RPM). Direct drive pressure washers transfer the vibration of the engine directly to the pump as well. The faster pumps of direct-drive machines are spinning so fast that they cannot draw water from a tank or a lake very well. They tend to work fine when the water is forced into the machine (like when you hook it up to a hose from the house). The slower moving pumps (belt driven or gear driven) work less and wear less, so they tend to last many years longer. They will also pull water to the machine from a tank, so your machines shouldn’t ever be starved for water (a problem that results in destroying the pump). Gear driven pumps still transmit the engine vibration to the pump because everything is hard-bolted together. This kind of pressure washer has not become popular since it was introduced because there is obviously one more part to break in the system – the transmission. Portable vs Stationary: Stationary machines are used in car washes, factories, etc. They are installed in place and never move. Portable pressure washers are used by contractors who travel to the customer to do the work. There is a crossover model called a skid unit - a stationary pressure washer designed to be installed on a trailer so that it can be taken to the customer’s site for the work. The most common machines for contractors to use are cold water portable pressure washers (for small residential work) and hot water skid units (for large commercial work or high-volume residential work). Wobble vs Axial vs Camshaft Pump: Since your pump is the heart of your system, it is critical to understand what you are buying. Every pump manufacturer makes several grades of pumps – Good, Better, and Best. The Wobble design requires a piston to push against the pressure in the pump and the pressure of a spring. This is an inexpensive design to build, but it is relatively inefficient, too. This is the design found on most homeowner pressure washers. It is designed to work for limited hours at a time and very limited hours per year, which is OK for a homeowner but doubtful for a contractor who wants to pressure wash every day. Wobble pumps tend to last for around 300 hours before needing extensive service or replacement. The Axial design is similar to the wobble design with a couple of important differences. Most axial pumps have larger oil reservoirs and bearings, which allow them to be used for longer periods of time and more hours per year. They still are inefficient (like the wobble) but several lower-priced contractor-grade machines work fine with the axial design. Axial pumps tend to last for about 600 hours before needing service. The Camshaft design delivers the most power and durability of all these designs. It uses connecting rods on a cam with large bearings like a car engine, so it runs cooler and lasts longer. It is able to hold up to continuous use for hours and hours as long as it is kept cool. Cam pumps tend to run for 1000 hours before needing service, and tend to last 2000 hours before needing extensive service or replacement. Heavyweight vs Lightweight: If you are buying a portable machine, it makes sense to pay attention to the weight of the unit. After all, you are the one who is going to lug it all around and move it into and out of your truck. Aluminum frames can be fragile, and steel frames can be heavy, so talk to your dealer about how you are going to transport the pressure washer. He may be able to steer you to a good solution for your needs. Home Model vs Contractor Model: The final choice for you to think about is durability. We have already discussed the difference in pumps, even from the same pump manufacturer. The cheapest machines usually have the cheapest pump, which won’t hold up well for most contractors. There are other considerations that you need to think about, too. The finish of the machine can be very important. Powder coating holds up better and lasts longer than painted frames. Steel frames rust. Aluminum or stainless doesn’t. Aluminum can be bent, steel is very rigid. This particular choice will vary depending on the pressure washers preference. For pressure washers that will be used at least 20 hours per week and sometimes up to 8 hours in a day, the lower priced machines just won’t last very long. They come with inadequate parts throughout, such as the unloaders, pumps, and even the engines. Just because it says “Honda”, for example, doesn’t mean that all Hondas are the same. This is where Grandpa’s “you get what you pay for” saying really is true. If you buy a $900 machine and you get six months use out of it, that purchase cost you $150 per month. If you bought a name brand commercial-grade machine of the same specifications for $1600 and you got 5 years of use from it, that purchase cost you $27 per month. Which one is less expensive? Let me relate some of my own experiences. As a pressure washer dealer, I see homeowners dragging in dead machines that are only a few months old every week. These machines cost more to fix than to replace, so my ‘boneyard’ is full of discarded homeowner units. I recently sold two old pressure washers that I used when I was a contractor and didn’t want any more. They were each 12 years old and each ran like a top. One had needed only routine maintenance over it’s life. The other had to have the pump completely rebuilt about three years ago. They were both belt-driven units with AR pumps and Honda engines. I paid about $1500 for each and sold them for about $300 each. When I added up all of the maintenance costs and the purchase price and then subtracted what I got for them when I sold them, those pressure washers costs me about $16 per month to own. Is there a better deal than that anywhere? If the bottom line for you is how much cash you have to fork over right now, consider an alternative. A reputable dealer can get you into a quality machine on a lease or finance contract. In the long run, you are better off with the better pressure washer. You will spend less of your cash today, and less over the life of the pressure washer – even with the interest added on.

I was just trying to reply back to Glock about a question he asked me, but his mailbox is full and I couldn't reply back. I didn't want him to think I was ignoring him. I used to date a landscaper but I don't think that qualifies, sorry!

Glock40, I tried to PM you back but it says your message box is full. Give me a call tomorrow and I would be happy to answer your question.

Thanks for sharing that Howard. Just another use for All Brite. Quite a few people use it for different things, it really is an excellent all around cleaner.

There are quite a few products out there that will work quite well with out any brushing. Call your vendor and ask them if they carry Gutter Zap or a similiar product. Then get your m5 and clean them from the ground, I think you will be surprised how much easier it can be.

Let us know what you think of it. I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how well it works. I've had contractors call and say they were amazed how much better it works than what they had been using.

I guess I'm the new girl in town. Sun Brite Supply has been around for about 8 years now. If you need anything give us a call at 301-519-9274 or stop by our store in Gaithersburg, Maryland. www.sunbritesupplymd.com

They are similiar in design but there are some differences in the actual makeup of the products. Most of the contractors that come into our store buy it or Power House and they love it.

When your downstreaming your chemicals, how are you reaching high areas 2 and 3 stories up? Just curious, I've only been out to a few house washing jobs and all of the guys doing it used the m5 x jets.

For many of our clients All Brite is used as an all purpose cleaner for houses, awnings, cars and numerous other surfaces. Some guys swear by gutter zap and others look for alternatives. What matters the most is what works best and fastest for you. You can always raise your prices if the quality is there and you can sell the client on your quality instead of playing pricing games.

Rod made an excellent point, use a pump up sprayer and apply your neutralizer before staining. A pump up sprayer may take a bit more time to apply with but it's a great thing to have on your truck in case something like this happens. It will also use less product and allow you to use pin point accuracy at the same time. No matter how you do it, apply a neutrilizer first, it will take a bit of time but not nearly as long as redoing the job when the finish fails early.

From what I've been told by some contractors that use allbrite and power house, both of them can be used at higher concentrations for cleaning gutters. Others swear by Gutter Zap though. I guess it just depends on what's comfortable for you that counts, some prefer using a product that's specifically designed for what they are cleaning.

When using gutter zap you should'nt need to add anything to it. If your concerned about wasting it, you can use an extension wand to apply it but with all the extra effort and time it's taking you to do the gutters this way, are you really saving money? Most of the contractors that buy gutter zap from us are able to do the entire gutter system with one gallon. The amount of time your taking using your method may be costing you more in time and hard work. If you xjet on the cleaner and clean all the gutters on the house in a total of 15 minutes, or take 40 minutes to do it with brushes and buckets, which method is more cost effective? If your cleaning three houses a day your loosing about 90 minutes, that's enough time and energy to do a fourth house. In this business, wasted time is far more costly than cleaners.

There are plenty of high quality house washes on the market for professional power washers. It sounds like you applied your cleaners a bit weak, 12% bleach will also give a huge boost to your house wash mix. I highly suggest that you "never" scrub a house like you did. If you had been cleaning oxidized Aluminum, you would have created a nightmare involving siding replacement and most likely lawsuits. If I can help let me know.