Anthony G

I had picked up an extra backup gun to use for rinsing and had this issue from the start. I had gotten it at a Northern Tool while my wife was elsewhere shopping and when I took it back to them they said that they had a lot of the coming back in. May be a defect in the gun from the get go.

Micheal, Good point on the tips....luckily i have not damage anything yet. I try to always pull the trigger with the gun pointed away from the house but they are hard to find in the grass and fly further than you think.

Scroll down a little ways to the section labeled Up on the Roof and you will find more that you may want to know on the ways to clean with what chemicals and equipment Welcome to TGS

Sorry......Russ. I didnt know that you were carrying these.

Contact Bob at Your one source for everything pressure cleaning washer

David, That is a nice looking pump......how bad was the price and did you get the wc or the gear reduction model. What kind of engine are you pushing it with? Thanks

I agree with Russ. Leave the pressure washer on the trailer and do what most of have done....invest in longer pressure hoses. The draw rate on a pressure washer is not good enough to pull from say a hundred feet and you will probably burn up a sureflo as a booster pump due to it cycling so much. You could also damage your pressure pump by cavitation if there is a delay in the water supply from the sureflo having to lose enough pressure to kick back on. Good luck and do plenty of reading on the TGS.

The charging system is just like a vehicle and the better the battery the better off you are. Just make sure that it has the 20A (i think) charging system

Daniel, Try and see if Univar or some othe chemical company is in your area. Univarusa.com shows a location in Geismar and Lafayette. If you go to there website and look at the top under about us and click on distribution network then click your state it will show you the locations. Depending upon your location it may be closer to check the surrounding states as well.

Dustin, What program are you using for those presentations that saves to pdf?

Scott, I like the portable tank and dike method. I had seen them before but had a brain fart on the subject. I know that we have the permanent type and the four drum plastic catch pan at work.

Dustin, Looks good. I like the before and after shots being sent to the customer. It lets them look back at it and remember the quality of work that you performed and they should call on you again. Anthony

To be legal I think that you need to be able to totally contain the spill. You would need a dike around the tank that would be able to handle say 500 gallons for a 400 gallon tank. When figuring dike size you have to figure in a safety margin after you have all things accounted for with other things in the dike that would take up volume from you capacity. The idea with six 55 gallon drums and the pallet catch basins may be your best idea, though I know that you have the volume to needed to look at the dike. Good luck. Anthony PS> We have dikes at work that are for say 50k gallon capacity because we have several 25k gallon tanks in them.

Hey Rod, that was a good summary. I like the part about deck items. I had moved a large plastic pot for customer once and got blamed for breaking it but thankfully they undertood that they dont last forever and being left in the sun shortened the life expectancy of the plastic.

I am glad to see that Roger helped you so much with both the knowledge and confidence. I have read post on here by Roger and Celeste and respect them both. Thanks for taking the time to let others know how the board helped you.

I went to wash a local restaurant on Sunday and it could not even supply my 4gpm cold water unit. Just down the same street I wash a bank that has given me 10 gpm out of the line. Go figure..

I have used the auto parts store purple stuff and some from wallyworld.....it works okay on vinyl....I still hadnt found a great cleaner for foundation walls.....was wondering about HCL or Muratic acid for those but hadnt tried it.

Sometimes a little degreaser will help..........purple stuff. Sometimes.

My boss at work just bought a fast signs franchise and I think he said that they use denatured alcohol ???? to remove the adhesives.

I am not sure if you need the portability of that real or not. If not then I would check out the steel eagles on ebay that are from their direct store. Then you you could match your sizes and stack them. Just my opinion and what I am looking to do this spring.

Also make sure that you have the chems seperated. Dont put things in the same box that will react with each other. If you have a leak then it could be much worse if they mix.

I cant see anything killing it for thirty years. If it is dead then its dead......new growth will come no matter what you do. I am not going to say that it is any safer or better than sodium hypochlorite and tsp. Take and try some and see what you think but I wouldnt hold a lot of faith in the thirty year deal.

Pressure Packed, The ethoxylated nonylphenol is in the NP-( (tergitol) that everybody likes. It is the nonylphenol reacted with ethylene oxide (really nasty stuff), once the two are reacted and vacuum stripped then it is no longer as hazardous. The alcohol C-12 and C-16 are minute amounts of the product as these set up at above room temperature. Of course everybody knows what the hydrogen peroxide is but just at a greater strength. I work in a surfactants plant that uses most if not all of the raw materials and reacts them to create a lot of the materials in the product you listed. We make a product similar to the NP-9 that is nonylphenol that is catalyzed with potassium hydroxide and the reacted with the ethylene oxide and then neutralized to customer specs. We have large amounts of the ethylene and propylene oxides on hand. Anthony

Doug, Thanks....I was having a brain fart on the NPT meaning. I have a direct drive Cat pump on the Honda engine and as long as the water level is above that of the pump it will push towards the pump, but I have had the problem with it not sucking the water. I was told that if I bought a belt drive unit then it would just about suck the tank dry if I put the elbow back into the tanks.

One is standard pipe threading and the other is hose pipe thread. Just remember that when you reduce down from 2 to 3/4 that you still have to convert it to hose pipe thread if you are using anything with the garden hose style connectors. I have my tanks mounted about 2 feet from the pump and I got 3/4" ID hose and cut it to length and used hose pipe repair kit for the end.