Anthony G

I know that there have been questions about the pricing of sodium hypochlorite. I have talked to RCBill personally about it. The prices that I am getting from Univar today are ----these are my pickup prices plus $40 drum dep for 53g. 15 gal---1.71 gal 53 gal---1.38 gal I asked about TSP-----50 lb bag was 69.50 since I dont buy much of it. Anthony

I have used them on hardwood floors on the interior of rental apartments. We love them for this purpose. Decent speed just will need something smaller for the corners but I am sure that you already knew that.

Paper clip will work in a pinch for removal.

Also as stated, what was the chemical classification. If it is hazardous material certain companies will not touch it for obvious reasons. Also factor in that if the x-jet had been shipped with the chems (higher rate) then it could have possibly cost more in the long run. I work in a chemical manufacturing plant and see the high cost of shipping. Anthony

Robere, You could also get a "tee" and run a short hose with a rinse gun..........not swapping. just let go of one and grab the other. I have a straight thru gun on the surface cleaner and just unhook and put in a rinse nozzle. I do not have to turn off the engine anymore

Ron, That must be the short bed version with the small tank. I pulled in and put 35 gallons in my super duty the other day.............35 x 3.999......$140.....ouch.

I also posted this in the maintenance section. I had my pressure washer covered and heat lamped during the winter. I took the cover off the other day and test run everything before I used it in the real world. As i was testing a rain cloud came in and poured down for about an hour. When I went back out I realized the red cap on my Cat pump had broken off and there was water in the oil. I ran it for a few minutes and then changed the oil............ran it some more and I still have milk in the crankcase. What is the best way to get the rest of the water out? Thanks, Anthony

Thanks Russ. Have dumped it once and bought enough for 2 more oil changes today.

I had my pressure washer covered and heat lamped during the winter. I took the cover off the other day and test run everything before I used it in the real world. As i was testing a rain cloud came in and poured down for about an hour. When I went back out I realized the red cap on my Cat pump had broken off and there was water in the oil. I ran it for a few minutes and then changed the oil............ran it some more and I still have milk in the crankcase. What is the best way to get the rest of the water out? Thanks, Anthony

My little 20" cleaner started making the dreaded stripes and finally died out on me.............culprit was the inline high pressure filter. Nozzles were clean. Just something else to check if you have it. For the rest of that job, i ran without the filter but replaced it shortly there after.

I am sure that some of the guys with pump experience will chime in shortly but I would not recommend going much above the rated capacity of the pump. It would also void your warranty if you still have one.

Don, Call (513) 714-5264. This is Univar in Cincinnati. Maybe they can give you better pricing for the sodium hypochlorite.

You are losing prime on the pump. If you prime the line and add the check valve this will prevent backflow. Most pumps will not prime themselves. I have a 600 gallon tank on the trailer and if I break my connections then I will have to reprime the line. Good luck.

I just got my new prices updates from Univar the other day and the prices listed are $1.71 per gal in 15 gal qty and $1.38 in 53 gal drum.

I know that the brush that I use makes you go over the gutter twice but I like it compared to the C brush. I by the RV brush at Walmart or Advance Auto that has the angled head. This allows me to get up against the downspout without much trouble and the ones with the bristles on the side allow you to catch the aluminum trim under the gutter with one swipe on the bottom side. Just my .02 Anthony

I thought that I would add to Jeff original comment and let people know that I placed an order on Friday and Bob still got it shipped out. Man that is quick for somebody working so hard on Jeff's new setup. Good Luck with the new unit Jeff. I will be trying to head down your way for a weekend later this year. Sun and Fun with the kids.

That sounds ridiculous

Roger, Nice job....as long as they are happy. Keep up the good work.

I currently run 2 Honda/Cat direct drive setup (works better for my space) and you are supposed to be able to turn the unloader to the opposite end (according to the manual) and it will pull but you will lose a little pressure. I dont know for sure how this would work and the pressure drop would not bother me since I rarely use anything above 1500 psi except for concrete.

Oxalic acid is the friendlier way to remove it. Thanks for the information and sorry that is was not drainage.....lot easier to remove. There are rust removers that can be bought in stores for homeowners to use....CLR is one and there are many others that contain phosphoric or oxalic acid. You may be able to rub some of these products over the affected areas if you dont need or cant find buld oxalic. Some deck brightners contain the oxalic also. Good Luck, Anthony

Are you sure it is rust or just dirt that is coming back out of the drain area or the wheep holes. I just did a building the other day and after I had rolled my hoses up I looked and had what appeared as stains but it was just dirt coming out of the little wheep holes in the bottom of the siding. I learned a long time ago not to keep washing these. I wait for it to mostly dry or stop then just take a wet (water only) brush on a pole and wipe over them. If you keep washing then you are adding water to the problem that you are trying to stop. Please try and wipe over them and see if that helps. Good luck, Anthony

If you buy a pressure washer that has a float tank then that is a small buffer tank. Or you can have a larger water tank (50-500 gal) to use. If it is a float tank then everything should be preplumbed and the tank is usually higher than the input on the pump to help feed it. This uses a float similar to a toilet that cuts the water flow off as it fills up so that none is wasted. I currently run 325 gallon tanks for a buffer. I have it set up so that my incoming water supply fills the tanks and the outlets of the tanks are hooked together to equalize then it tee's off to come into the pressure washer. I have to keep the water level up above the pump level so that the water is pushing into the pump. I know that I can set it up for suction but havent tried that. Hope that helps. Anthony

I second the buffer tank idea. Most of the houses in my area have underperforming wells and I can load up at the fire hydrant for little of nothing. I currently run 2-325 gallon tanks for the extreme areas. I have gotten several jobs from painting companies in the area due to them trying to use a pump very similar to mine but the well couldnt keep up. One of them called me because he had severely damaged his Cat pump with cavitation from the low water flow. I make sure that if I am hooked to customers water directly to keep an eye out for the feel of cavitation. If you squeeze the trigger and everything feels normal for a minute or so them you get the vibration feel in the hose and gun (should be able to see this in the line) then please stop washing. If this continues everytime that you squeeze then shut down. The air cavitating the pump will kill your pump in a very short time and that is a costly expense that we dont need. Good Luck, Anthony

Just remember that if you carry a water tank then the bigger the better applies. Also make sure that trailer has brakes on at least one axle if not both. I currently use a Ford F-350 with the diesel.

Just remember that this would have to be a setup that you would still have to fill up and disconnect because DOT regulations will not allow you to have the hookup fixed.