Integrity Curb Appeal

HO! HO! HO! May Santa bring everyone lower fuel cost this year. (I couldn't think of anything else that EVERYONE needs)

Rod, I looked at ACRs website and found a product called 633 HP under woodcare chems. Is this it? Is it a thickener similar to np9? Thanks, Scott

Does anyone know the calculation to calculate hp needs for a generator? Thanks, Scott

Doug, That is perfect. Thank you! Scott

I agree with you Jeff. Well besides the lead paint and no good jobs stuff. You have made a good point. When those liberal Democrats get some power, we will all be racing downhill in a handbasket! If Hilary becomes President I may have to start using the words ehh and hoser more often as well as buy a warmer coat. I am glad to see you made the cross over... I'm just counteracting sarcasm with sarcasm Jeff! You left it wide open, I couldn't resist lol!

Exactly what I was thinking. Giving someone a white Christmas is almost a dream come true. I have been wondering and asking people, "How much is this worth"?

Did you (or anyone else) ever make a snow maker yet?

Carlos, When you say new construction, are you staining new wood that has not been cleaned?

I just recently finished this deck with Readyseal. I had leaves falling wile cleaning and sealing. One thing I really like about Readyseal is that when the leaves fall while sealing you can just pull them away. They don;t stick to the deck. This was a big selling point for this time of year.

What is Scott's downstreamable stripper,or what thread is it on?

Ken, Thanks for the thoughts. So 3 oz per gallon HD-80 will give me the same results as F18 at 12 oz/gal? I will have to try some HD-80. It was in the high 70s and 60 at night when I applied the RS.

It was a thick application of semitransparent. I have not tried it on laytex. Bob could probably tell you what to expect.

Thanks Daniel. F18 was 12oz per gallon with sureflow. Ox was 16/gallon downstreamed. No percarb/bleach. Light sanding. No defurring.

Sealed with Readyseal medium brown. Funny story goes along with this deck. While I was talking with the home owner, another contractor arrives to quote the deck. The homeowner was not expecting him at this time. He actually owns one of the largest (volume) pressure washing businesses in this city. Tells me he has never heard of my company etc... Jokes with the home owner quietly about seeing if our price is close. He blurts his price for all and my cleaning/stripping price is higher than he quoted the entire job. He laughed. I explained to the home owner that the cost was high due to the stain on the deck and quantity of stripper needed to remove the stain. (I had already done a test spot with the HO prior to the other contractor arriving.) The other contractor said, "This doesn't need to be stripped". I just said, "If you get the job you can do it however you see fit." I suggested he may want to ask the HO what he wants before he does anything. The HO (a GE engineer) and I discussed chemicals and process. I traded business cards with the contractor and we both exited. I got a call the next day and won the job at TWICE the other guys quote. I learned most everything I discussed with the HO from you guys. Thanks! By the way, the pics are full size, and I know they aren't great. But if there is a newbie that needs some pics for anything, help yourself.

Here are some from a different view. Cleaned/striped with F18 max and Neutralized/brightened with Ox.

I have read that you only need a small amount of np-9 to get the correct coagulation effect. How much np-9 are you guys using per gallon? Scott

When ya gotta go, ya gotta go!

Are you changing your oil frequently enough? Check the manufacturers specs for service intevals. Replace your plug every year. The 2 bucks for a plug will be saved in fuel efficiency. Check your airfilter as well.

I use a flow accuated unloader as well. It relieves all the pressure in my hose and hotbox coils when the trigger is closed. As far as your problem goes, I would assume all of your techniques are the same as they were before the starting issue. Perhaps you need a new plug. If it is taking longer for your engine to start than it was previosly than you are gradually building pressure every time you pull. Does yor engine currently start with the same amount of pulls as it did a year and a half ago?

Do you have the same type of unloaders? Did you have to adjust both unloaders to match the PSI of the minimum PSI of the two? Do you have a photo of the hook-up? Scott

Just messin' with ya Chris. I tried to make this happen but it did not work for me. There is a company that specializes in this Home you could probable call or email them and ask.

There is definatly a difference between the two. With the two machines, you spend half the labor. Send your other worker somewhere else and make twice the $$$s

I tried this today. I ran a T with check valves coming in and it did not work. I believe it is because my TS2011 has a flow actuated unloader, and my mobile unit does not. I would think if I set my mobile up with a FAU and tuned it down to the PSI from my 2011 it may work. My burner was not firing on my 2011 PW, and that is how I know I was getting nothing.

Ken, I havent. Do you mean a dual lance wand?

I need some advice on the airless please. I have a deckster type unit wich works great for Readyseal, but not so great with WTW. The spray is too thuck, and too much. Would a wagner paint crew 770 work well for this, or something else. I ended up having to do an entire deck by hand with Sikkens, and was a pain not being able to spray. What is an inexpensine unit to buy and what tips do I need. ? I don't do alot of wood, it is more occasional.