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Integrity Curb Appeal

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Posts posted by Integrity Curb Appeal

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I am mixed about this. I feel that on one side, if you help someone out, out of respect most reasonable people would not step on your toes. But I know many of you have stories on the contrary.

    If it really came down to it, I would feel out the situation. Some people you can help and they will remember you. Others will steal your tricks and undercut you every time.

    I don't mind a little competitive bidding, but when people start under cutting you 1300, that's when I draw the line. As unethical as collusion is, I think that people should agree to keep pricing in a certain range. Undercutting hacks do nothing but make themselves and us lose potential dollars. Too bad they are too stupid to see that.

    Amen! So you are from Frankfort, I'm just down the road in Lexington. How's business this year?

  3. Posted · Report reply

    You know I drew that picture it is on my website.

    Hotwaterwizard

    Hotwaterwizard

    Burner Wiring Easy.jpg Posted by Thehotwaterwizard on 8/23/2001, 24KB

    And I thought nobody ever went to that site anymore.

    Last Post on that board. 8/31/2006 9:32 PM

    It seems as though people have downloaded the diagrams and saved them to their own folders for reference. Thanks for all the work you have put in on these diagrams. It is a wealth of knowledge.

    Scott

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Scott,

    With your result here: "I did this and my burner fired as long as it remained wired this way. I immedietly wired it back to the original configuration at the conclusion." ..we can assume the solinoid works and allowed oil through to fire..right? If that is case ya got to find the switch not completing the circuit.

    Use the following generic picture to weed things down.. when you rewired you bypassed the loop the circuit makes through the various items..As you can see switches are all series wired through theirselves (can be bypassed individually or as a group). The circuit..motors and all are considered parallel wired as a whole though as they all make one loop off power source..

    ps. The pressure switch in picture could be either a pressure switch,flow switch, or vacuum based switch on your setup..simply connect their input/output wires together to bypass

    typicalburnerwiring.jpg

    You are the man. I did just get it going, but it so happens that I did walk the curcuit the way it is listed here. I hope this page helps someone else that may have the same issue. Thanks for you time, effort and help.

    Scott J

  9. Posted · Report reply

    First off. thanks for all of your help. I appreciate it very much.

    If you are getting fuel to the solenoid valve, but none comes through, it could be one of several things. Firstly, take the coil off the solenoid (remove the little nut and slide it up off the post. Get a magnet, start the machine, turn the burner on, and slide the magnet along the post on the valve. If it fires' the valve itself is ok.

    In the photo, is it the top nut and cylinder I should remove?

    Next, open the ignitor. Find the wires to the solenoid. One should be bundled in with a wire fron the ignitor and a wire from the motor. The other wire should be attached to only one wire. Remove the single wire and bundle it with the other wire going to the ignitor and motor (not the same bundle as the first solenoid wire). Cap all connections, close the ignitor, start the machine, and turn on the burner. If it lights, all is well with the burner assembly. Rewire everything back where it was and close the ignitor. .

    I did this and my burner fired as long as it remained wired this way. I immedietly wired it back to the original configuration at the conclusion.

    Now we have to go after the switches. Pressure switch, flow switch, vac switch, high limit switch, and / or thermostat. Bypassing a switch involves disconnecting the wiring going to a switch and connecting the wires that the switch was connected to together. Do them one at a time, rewiring properly before continuing to the next. A thermostat is the easiest. If you have a jumper wire with alligator clips, just clip the wire between the terminals. After bypassing each switch, do a test fire until you trace it down.

    Or drive to Louisville and see me...

    Can I use alligator clips on all connectors without disconnecting them?

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I have a Wayne oil burner on my hot water machine. I have electric going to the igniter, and the oil pump is working. I am pumping oil into the valve, but none is coming out of the valve. Would it be:

    1. The valve, or power going to the valve? How can I test this?

    2. The igniter. Does it have some kind of feature that will tell the valve not to release oil if there is some kind of issue?

    Any help will be appreciated. I have 3 hot water jobs ready to go.

    Scott

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Scott,

    Sounds like your order timing might be on the cusp of the WTW formula changeover.

    If you do not need to use the stain right away, prep and apply some to a sample board. If it does not cure in a "reasonable" amount of time, adding Japan Drier will do the trick.

    I'm not sure what is "reasonable" or normal curing time for "the old" WTW is as we do not use the stain. Ken, Beth & Rod, Jarrod, Celeste or other contractors who use the stain a lot might chime in here and let us know.

    I hope it is corrected. I have been waiting for its arrival, and now I have to test it? I agree with Ken, it should be ready from the can. I'll let you know if I have any issues when I receive it.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Sounds like quite a few people are coming down this year. give me a call, we'll get together for sure

    with all these PWers coming down I might have to have Bob build another rig for you Myrtle Beach part timers LOL

    Man Jeff, you're one popular dude. I'll be there in late July.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Got some F-13 from PT.

    Worked great on my 2/yr old gutters, brushed on 6:1 then rinsed. Ran out a gas for PW and final 7' rinsed with garden hose with exellent results!

    I'd post some pics but jpeg size is too big. What can I do about that?

    Is it posible to resize pic?

    Anyway, Monday moring going to clean my Mom's 18 year old gutters two sections are approx 18' up each about 22' long with heavy stains.

    How should I x-jet it? Use proportioners or no?

    I haven't tried x-jetting it. I would just call or email Bob at PressureTek. I am sure he would be glad to advise.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Sure. I mix up the ingredients above, leave it on the trailer, and plug in my downstreamer This latest addition to GP's chemical injector line is a new "Hi-Draw" model, capable of a 20%* draw rate. These injectors feature an operating pressure of 4,500 PSI and a temperature rating of 1900. Sized at 3/8 inch M X M, NPT, stainless steel orif

    put my hose in the bucket, and sray the gutters using a 0030 tip. I typically rinse with a 0010 tip. Higher volume machines will allow for rinsing with larger orfice tips. My 0020 draws chem, or I would use it. I typically let the mix dwell for 5 -7 minutes. Do not let the chems dry. Simple Cherry from pressuretek is the soap that I normally use in my housewash as well. It is good stuff. The SGEC just seems to really help with the gutters.

    Anyone tried this out yet?

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Where can I find SGEC?

    Sams Club. Keep in mind that in your area, you may need something stronger. If you do purchase a chem for gutters then Bob sales F13 which works well, and if mymemory serves me right, you can put it in your housewash as well. The black streaks in gutters are in the oxidation layer of the paint. F-13 removes the oxidation and in turn removing the streaks. - CHEMICALS HOUSE WASH / GUTTER / WOOD CARE / MULTI-PURPOSE

  25. Posted · Report reply

    You could use it as housewash but you don't need the SGEC in with the soap and 12% unless there is a lot of atmospheric stains on the siding. But if you take your housewash mix and add the correct amount of SGEC it does work well on gutters. The gutter dirt level may be different here then other geography however. Not to mention climate and particulate type etc. This works well for me.

    From what I expect is happening, the 12% reacts with biological growth, and the SGEC reacts with the atmospheric. The soap is just for dwell.

    One thing else I like about SGEC it somewhat masks the smell of clorine.

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