Paul B.

- Beth at TheGrimeScene sell equipment. Here are a few other sites you can check out: - Water Cannon www.1800333wash.com - Delco www.DCS1.com - www.TuffPW.com - Landa www.Landa.com - Hotsy www.Hotsy.com - Mi-T-M www.MiTM.com - EnviroSpec www.EnviroSpec.com - Higher Power Supplies www.higherpowersupplies.com - www.pressurewashersdirect.com - www.southern-tool.com - www.AtlanticPW.com - www.BiscoFl.com - www.BuyKimco.com - www.ChampionPressureProducts.com - www.CMCPWE.com - www.DAIndustries.com - www.HCSClean.com - www.USAPressure.com - www.HydroTekSystems.com - www.IndEquipment.com - www.IversonInc.com - www.JNEquipment.com - www.PowerCleanSystems.com - www.PressureWasherDepot.com - www.Pressure-Washer-Parts.com - www.PressureWasherStore.com - www.PWMall.com

Chlorine will not remove rust stains - Home Depot has a product called "The Must for Rust"; Prosoco has a product called Ferrous Stain Remover; and oxalic acid should work also. I would clean the brick pavers with detergent & chlorine added. 1:3 dilution of 10% pool shock will get you good results. Rinse well and you should have no problems.

0.080 in. = 2 mm (2.032)

I'm not sure what exactly you disagree with, but you can't group everyone in a country or continent as bad or evil. We have lots of crime in this country that many other countries do not have (serial killers, child abusers, child molesters, etc.). Should that make us barbarians in another coutries eyes? One kind of BAD action does NOT make another BAD action good. In otherwords if your brother murders, you're still not a good person if you ONLY steal.

For most cost effective rough clean-up you should have a BobCat. (You'll be dealing with everything from lumber to bricks.)

He's trying to write his name on the paint? I think this is called pressure stripping. Just knocking off the loose pieces. He would do better to turn the nozzle 90 degrees or switch to a Turbo. I overheard an HD employee tell a couple today that in order to strip the stain from their deck they need to get a pressure washer (no need for stripper or any other chemicals). The employee and the couple had no clue. I gave them my friends business card.

After some price and information chasing, I bit the bullit and purchased a new desktop. I went with another Sony product as I can't complain about my Sony laptop and the price, apples to apples, was $500 less than a Dell unit. It's an RZ54G with bunches of GigaHertz (3.2 I believe). Loaded up 1GB of RAM, 200GB hard drive, a DVDwriter, a CD writer, a bunch of card readers, S-Video connector, a beer tap, refrigerator, kitchen sink and a port-o-potty (never have to leave the computer now for those misc. missions). I have a nice piece of software called Sonic Stage Mastering Studio which sings on this computer. I can copy my records onto DVDs, I can copy from my 4-track and 16-track tape decks or thru a mic. into the program and onto DVDs. Ohhhh, and I love my 17" Sony LCD monitor. The image is so nice and bright and the colors are soooo wonderful. I thought about a 19" but they are fairly expensive and it's actually too large for the distance I normally sit from it. It would just overwhelm the viewing. The black border around the screen helps improve the viewing. The studio has twin 19" monitors, but the seating is further from the screen. My only problem now is that the better half (after seeing my new toy) wants to trade her Dell laptop for one of those fancy new large wide screen laptops. Ohh well, at least it's not a trade-up to a new convertible (for now).

I would not add a foamer for roof cleaning - it will take for ever to rinse it off. Below is part of my post last year on another BB - some of it may be out of context but if you have patience, read thru it as it may give you some additional insight to roof cleaning.: "Sodium Hypochlorite is one of the few chemicals approved by asphalt shingle manufacturers. Lot of roof cleaners use Sodium Hydroxide which is not an approved chemical. I would also venture to say that most shingle manufacturers are not very enthusiastic about people walking on roofs, especially while combined with using harsh chemicals. The following are also some of the approved materials for removing or preventing algae growth on shingle roofs. - Zinc sulfate (monohydrate) - Zinc chloride - Copper sulfate (also called blue stone) - Potassium salts of fatty acids. - ZINC AND COPPER STRIPS (copper being more effective than zinc) The ARMA (Asphalt Roofing Manufacturing Association) www.asphaltroofing.org This was one document available a couple of years ago: www.asphaltroofing.org/tb_217.pdf There is no guarantee that all manufacturers (present and future) approve the same roof cleaning methods. Majority of the time the homeowner is not even sure of the Brand of shingles. There is also information on research and approved cleaning methods by: Clemson University Cooperative Extension Services and U of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (there are also other universities that have the same data available.) Cleaning is not a long term solution to mold, mildew and algae growth. Adding Zinc strips would be one option I believe Copper strips work better than Zinc. Some roofs may require strips at 15 ft intervals as these strips have about a 15 foot effective range (according to some studies I've read). There are a host of chemicals that can be applied to retard the growth of mold, mildew and algae. In my opinion, other steps should be considered prior to or in conjunction with applying retarding chemicals, as you are not curing the ailment but only applying a temporary "pain reliever". (Here, you are facing problems that deck restoration and house siding cleaning contractors face on a daily basis.) Accumulation of debris on a roof has deteriorating effects on the roof. Debris can retard the shedding of water and can retain moisture that allows growth of mold, mildew and algae. To promote drying, you may need to suggest the trimming overhanging branches or even the removal of trees that can cause excessive shading and slow drying of the roof. Regular leaf and debris removal should also be suggested to your customers."

Things can and have been overblown in this election year and I'm afraid will continue until the vote counting is over in November. The Liberals are so very good at it (I guess that's why they are Liberals). The photos should never have been taken - it's a souvenir, as so many military people have taken these over the years. I was somewhat disgusted myself over the one photo where the American GI's are posing and smiling over the naked bodies. I don't feel these are appropriate. We (as Americans) have and always will continue to elevate the bar for ourselves and others around the world - be it in technology, enterprise or the fight for democracy. As we set high standards, and with the freedom of speach we posess, we will always have someone looking over our shoulders and keeping us informed and honest. Pointing out our mistakes is how we learn to improve.

I was once told (directly) that he makes up the prices as he deems fit based on type of business, experience level, state you're in (NOT MENTAL CONDITION), coverage required, etc. In otherwords, he indicated that he has a free hand and quiet a bit of latitude with pricing for each company.

We use 3M stripper pads or remnant defelting pads. I'm anxious to see how the 17 year locust will play out this year. Last time it was not bad at all, but 34 years ago it was a nightmare as you couldn't walk on sidewalks since they were literraly covered from edge to edge with them. Ahhh, how lucky we are in the mid-west (tornados and locust)!

A couple gallons more could change things drastically. You're VERY lucky if you are getting 13GPM, as most homes in this area only put out between 5-8 GPM (that's if no toilets are flushed, dishwashers or clothes washers are running. "I think you may have trouble getting 16GPM." Invest in a Titan 440i ($775 at Sherwin Williams). Your deck finishing will go much faster. Also if you use a sprayer and work on a lot of porches, check out the Zip Wall system (www.zipwall.com) might save some masking time. Best wishes!

As I've said a few times already, I prefer the Chapin 3 gallon pump up sprayer (2218) with a pressure relief valve, fan type nozzle and viton seals. Just purchased a few more for a contractor discounted $48 each at my Sherwin Williams dealer. The wear parts are replaceable for about $8.50 (o-rings, seals, springs, valve, etc.). As you can see, the hose that comes with it is almost useless (as is the case with most pump up units I've owned in the past). I replace the hose that comes on it with 3/8"ID reinforced clear poly hose about 10ft long. (I've had the hoses longer, but they are just a pain then.) When you pump this unit properly, it will spray for a long time. Keep sprayers off your back if you're using harsh chemicals. Best wishes!

Bio-Wash (division of Napier) has the One-Day Deck which uses the Natural Deck Oil that can be applied 30-40 minutes after rain or washing/stripping. Flood has the “Spa-N-Deck” (www.FloodCo.com) It's a 3 coat product that can be applied to wet wood.

Stoppie, Your P/W already has an unloader on it. It is both a pressure regulator and safety valve (as Alan said).

At least in Ohio, if you file as an LLC (Ltd.) or Corporation, the state registers your company name. The state searches and approves (or NOT) your name. The cost is $125 and it's good until you go out of business. If you plan on working multi-state or national, the rules are a bit different in regards to your business name and should check with each state you plan to do business in. In our state, the county that you work out of also requires licensing (vendor or contractor) and P/W are required to collect and submit sales taxes by county. Our county/state also requires property taxes to be paid yearly on all equipment owned by the business (the first $10K are exempt). As said before, each state is different and it is best to check with your state government and county treasurer on what is required for you to start a business. Your local SBA (small business administration) and/or a CPA may also be good sources of information. Best wishes on your new venture!

Not sure of the composition of Premier but if it's a degreaser, there may not be anything you can do about it other than roll sealer over it. In essence, if it's a degreaser, it will remove the oils from asphalt. You have to be careful with these types of detergents by pre-wetting asphalt, not letting it dry or not even allowing it to puddle. This requires continuous rinsing of the asphalt - which gets tricky on extremely hot and sunny days. You can try to wash it with HOT water only. Best Wishes!

I noticed last fall that the economy was picking up and it is continueing to increase this year. I've increased our prices from last fall and I'm still hitting over 90% of my bids. Looks like time to increase pricing again for residential work. Rob, Have your answering service ask how your customers found out about your company and track your advertising. When you go to a larger ad for next issue you can see if it was worth it or not - although, if you already have the biggest ad, I'm not sure what added benefit a larger ad will have for you. What percent of your bids are you turning into contracts?

Rinse aid is OK to use - NO WAX!

OK it's not a bridge - but it does extend over the water. Anyone out there stripping/staining docks or similar structures that can suggest some ways of keeping the BAD STUFF (stripper/stain) out of the water? All suggestions (other than pass) are appreciated!

Alan, The thought of damming crossed my mind, but for the cost of damming I could build a new dock.

You can find the prep. info on Coronado Maxum at: www.coronadopaint.com/maxum/m8500.htm My thought process for now is to strip the old finish from all areas except the dock. Apply new on stripped areas and apply over existing stain on the dock after cleaning and removing any chipping, etc. The dock area will be rolled on. Someone will be getting wet to keep the stain from dripping into the water. In my initial conversation with customer, I discussed concerns over allowing BAD STUFF to get into the water. They didn't seem to be that concerned, but you know how that goes (No problem until the fish start to die.). In any case, the contract includes waiver by customer and approval for damage that may happen.

We are getting ready to clean (masonry) this large 25K brick home. The masonry was completed about 7 months ago, which makes it interesting to start with, but it has some interesting twists that I'll get into later. This home is much further along than we would normally get involved in for new construction masonry cleaning. We are asked to clean the concrete (mud, clay and mortar), clean the bricks (mortar smears, mortar tags, efflorescence, sand), clean 15 limestone keystones (which were sloppily smeared with color mortar stains), and bring back the color of the mortar which should be a consistent maroon shade. After cleaning, we are to seal the brick, stain the concrete foundation and stain the front porch/deck, rear porch/deck and garage porch/deck. Let me start with this photo and a little ditty about the brick layer's helper. The young man spanned the concrete retainer wall top with some 2x6's and set a 32ft ladder on top of it to reach where no man has been before. He climbed the ladder and took the plunge. The concrete was not there at the time, which most likely saved his life. He hobbled around for a while and went off to lick his wounds. That mason was eventually fired for other reasons before the job was done. Personally, I would have fired him after the ladder incident.

These are the last 2 "Before / After" shots of the "Key Stone". Again, Prosoco's Vana Trol made cleaning these a breeze - while maintaining the bright color of it. Notice the difference in the color of the mortar joints after cleaning.

"Before / After" of window area.