Paul B.

This is the "Before / After" of the are that the mortar joints were severely inconsistant in color. I was very pleased with the way Vana Trol cleaned and help blend the colors.

Here are some of the "Before / After" shots.

Flood sells a product called E-Bond (Emulsi-Bond), they also have it in some of their solid stains which eliminates the need to prime if you are using a latex. I try to stear my customers AWAY from using solids on the deck floors and if they want solids, I push toward the 2-tone (pricing accordingly), where the solids are only on the vertical surfaces. Then I recommend an oil based stain like Ready Seal for the floor. This way you end up with a very nice finish, cleaning their deck every year, staining the floor every other year and only need to strip after 6-7 years. Each manufacturer has different requirements for priming. Read the labels and follow direction to obtain best results and lengthy finish. What I tell my customers is that the Flood solid on vertical surface is less expensive but most likely will last about 7 years. With Cabot solid stain, by priming and applying 2 top coats, I can increase the life of the finish to 13-15 year range (on vertical surfaces only). My preference is oil primer and latex on top.

I found that if you can foam it on, the chemical holds better and cleans better with a spray on application. Make sure you don't pre-wet the gutters. Along with differences in adhesion strength of dirt, don't forget that air, surface temperatures and water hardness play a large role in cleaning effectiveness.

I like the Chapin 2209 3-gallon acid resistant plastic with Viton seals sells for under $50. It has a pressure relief valve (KEY for safety). Sprays for a long time when pumped properly. You can replace the wear parts with a Viton Kit #6-1945 sold for $12. This kit includes springs, o-rings, and valves. I replaced the short hoses with a longer ones.

I would consider 2-3 coats of poly (depending on how much time you have to get the job done), as this will increase the life of the finish. Very light steel wool (sanding) between coats. This would be considered the same as furniture refinishing.

Obtain permission in writing and ahead of doing the job. You can make it your customer's responsibility to obtain approval if you wish. However, if you make it the customer's responsibility to ask the neighbor for access you might miss an opportunity to sell some of your services.

Acid etching is required when using film type or epoxy sealers on very smooth finished concrete (like garage floors). Using a penetrating type sealer such as V-seal does not require acid etching. Hot water should be enough with low pressure (1200 psi) if the concrete is less than 30 days old. After 30 days, higher pressures can be used but use care to make sure the concrete is not being damaged in the process. $1.10 per sq ft would be high for cleaning and film type sealers (other than epoxy coatings in which case it may bee rather low depending on what brand you use and how many coats you apply. My pricing ranges between $0.29 to $0.39 per square foot for cleaning and sealing residential (and $0.085 to $0.12 per sq ft for normal cleaning depending on size). Pricing varies based on film or penetrating type and brand of sealer being applied, how porous the concrete is (as this determines the amount of sealer you will use) and if it's a 1 coat or 2 coat application (wet-on-wet or allowing for drying time between coats). The most contractor economical penetrating concrete sealer (in my opinion) is V-seal since it can be applied to damp concrete (saving a second trip) and since it is a 1 coat application. With most other penetrating and film type sealers you have to wait at least 24 hours for the concrete to be thoroughly dry, otherwise the sealer will fail prematurely. (You can test concrete or brick to see if it's dry by taping a 12" x 12" piece of clear plastic on the surface and if after 20 minutes you have condensation then the concrete is not dry enough - this test is only effective on warm days and works best in the sun). Also, most penetrating 2 coat sealers can be applied wet-on-wet whereas fil type sealers require drying time between coats. (Read directions on product for manufacturer's directions.)

One of the differences between sodium and potassium hypochlorite is the pH. While sodium hypochlorite is in the range of pH 13-14, potassium hypochlorite is in the range of pH 7-8, making it ideal for pool water use. You end up using potassium hypochlorite to kill germs and algea and use a separate chemical (alkaline or acid) to increase or decrease you pH level to neutral. I doubt very much that 100 lbs. will make 1200 gallons of 12.5% liquid solution. I believe Ryan's numbers are closer to reality (although it's tough to tell without titration), giving you 44-1/2 gallons, in which case it will cost you about $3.32 per gallon and your time mixing. (At $100 your cost is $2.25 per gallon.) Mix it in a 55 gallon dark plastic container, then keep it out of the sun, heat and keep it capped all the time as air, sun and heat will decrease the shelf life rapidly. Normal shelf life should be about 3-4 months from the time you mix it.

Many chemicals, such as HD-80, EFC-38 and Citralic (fortunately) are same in weight as in liquid volume (1 dry oz = 1 liquid oz). However this is not always the case and you should always weigh your first batch after opening your container. I find the Sunbeam SP5 digital scale serves a nice double function for weighing letters and packages (0.1 oz. increments, up to 5 lbs.) along with an occasional chemical weigh-in. The SP5, or a similar model can be found at an Office Max, Office Depot, or Staples for about $30.

I agree with Tony's statements. I would also add that for new construction brick cleaning you need to keep the pressure under 60psi to keep from having the acid penetrate deeply into the brick... Also, as you increase your pump size, it will draw more amps (juice) from your battery. Going from a 1gpm to a 2 gpm for example will decrease your time between charges on the same battery. As for Shurflo or Flojet being better: I have always used Shurflo and have not tried Flojet. I have at least 2 Shurflo pumps that have functioned for 3 years plus even after being unknowingly stored with corrosives (sodium hydroxide) over winter. In otherwords, I have not found a reason to change brands.

1 gallon = 231 cu. in. Area of a circle = Pi x radius squared 3/8" ID hose area would be: 3.1415 <Pi> x (.1875 x .1875) <radius squared> = .110 sq. in. .110 sq. in. x 12" <1 ft> = 1.32 cu. in <or 1.32 cu. in. of volume per foot of 3/8" ID hose>. 250 ft hose x 1.32 cu. in. = 330 cu. in. of volume 330 cu. in divided by 231 cu. in. (or 1 gallon volume) = 1.43 gallons of volume To make a long story short, 250ft of 3/8" ID hose will hold about 1.43 gallons of water. At 5 gpm flow, it takes about 17 seconds to clear 250 ft of hose Food coloring should work for what you want to accomplish. There are acid dyes and flavor additives that are also available for chemicals.

This is an older post, but appearantly the pics were deleted when the BB went down last year. Prosoco's Vana Trol did a very nice job of removing the stain. Scraped off the larger chunks first than applied the solution, let it dwell for 5 minutes and rinse. On a couple, a second application and brushing with a Tempico brush was required but it came out very nice.

Normally, within each brand of product, the increase of solids goes hand-in- hand with the increase of pigments and increase of UV protection. In otherwords, the darker the stain, the more UV protection it provides for the wood.

Using brush or pads will increase your coverage rate by 30-60% over spraying. It helps to know your coverage rates for estimating the amount of stain you will need for the job even if you recognize the material $$ to time $$ trade-off. We notice about a 40% increase in coverage rate with Ready Seal when using lamb's wool pads on deck floors. On certain types of decks there is not very much time savings in spraying vs. using pads (on the floor only), as you can apply relatively quickly with a 9" or 10" wide wool pads. The speed also applies to using a Hurricane type brush. "Go Zildjian!"

Why do you wash your clothes in Tide? Because it's too cold out-Tide! (Bahahahaha) Bryan, When washing the gutters, do you pre-wet it first? With some products, such as AllBrite, pre-wetting works AGAINST you. and Are you having problems removing the streaks all the time? When air and surface temperatures are lower, as in the 50's and low 60's, some chemicals will not clean as effectively as in higher temperatures. I'll state the somewhat obvious here: If the chemical is removing paint, then your mix ratio is either too strong, or altogether inappropriate for cleaning painted surfaces. As Tony said, there is a fine line (or mix ratio) between cleaning and stripping when using a Sodium Hydroxide based solution. Most solutions containing above 1% Sodium Hydroxide will start stripping paint. Testing different concentrations on small areas will minimize your potential for damage. I've had success with several products including AllBrite; Krud Kutter; Gutter Zap; and G.......... by spraying only. But there are always applications that may require brushing, be it hard water, cold temperatures or stubborn streaks. I've found that by foaming the solution, it has better hang time when spraying and therefore generally cleans streaks better without brushing.

Gutter Zap at www.SunBriteSupply.com Tracy Handl (866) 537-2748 x22 Gutter Zap at www.Xterior.com SunBrite also sells "All Brite" which is good/inexpensive non-butyl detergent for house siding washing. Limonene at www.EnviroSpec.com - they are having a SALE until the end of March on their chemicals and parts such as QD fittings.

Tony, I agree with your statements. That is the trouble with being titled as an EXPERT. To me the bottom line is to do the homework for ones self and by cross checking the information you should be able find fact vs. fiction (most of the time). Another note for the consumer is to be weary of anyone that only gives negatives or only positives of a product or process. That's a flag raiser to me right away!

It's an angle to promote handwashing. Handwashing requires very low O/H (very basic equipment and minimum knowledge). It's also using all of the bad things unprofessional P/W have left behind for the PRO P/W to have to deal with. It's like anything else - improper use of tools and chemicals can and will cause damage in the hands of an untrained person. Looks like they are/were using child labor to clean the siding. I would hardly call it professional. It's in violation of child labor laws. The kids are also not wearing eye protection. The state, OSHA and workers comp. would like to hear about these practices. I'm curious if they also clean concrete with a garden hose. Even a so called experienced handyman can give the P/W business a bad name and also provide inaccurate information. Let me quote you just a couple of things from Glenn Haege' who claims to be America's Master Handyman with 30 years experience in home improvement: Dear Glenn: The aluminum siding is beginning to look stained and old. Should I have it powerwashed, or is there something else I can do to make it look good for spring? -- Grace, Almont Dear Grace: Aluminum and vinyl siding is supposed to be washed every year. Power washing is not necessary. In fact, it can strip the finish and make it necessary to paint or replace the siding before its time. Go to the Hardware Store and buy some Power or Nice and Easy Aluminum Siding Cleaner by Alumin-Nu (800) 899-7097. They also make a vinyl siding cleaner. Dear Glenn: Last fall, a highly recommended power washer company gouged my cedar deck and destroyed the finish on some very expensive imported lacquered vinyl chairs. I know I can never make them like new again, but how do I make them look good enough to use this spring? -- Alice, Dexter Dear Alice: Both the cedar deck and vinyl furniture are very soft. Pressure over 800 p.s.i. (pounds per square inch) will dig into the cedar and vinyl. The problem is that even residential power washers are 1,200 p.s.i. and commercial power washers are usually 2,000 to 2,500 p.s.i. When this equipment is used on soft materials the result can be disastrous. If your deck is severely gouged, the best way to have it fixed would be to sand it smooth with a circular buffing machine. Use medium and fine grit sanding screens only. When the surface is smooth, apply Penofin Ultra, (800) 736-6346. You are in luck with the vinyl furniture because you can make it smooth as new. Take it over to the Strip It Co. in Clinton Township, (810) 792-7705, and have it bead-blasted smooth. Once the vinyl furniture is smooth, take it to any good auto collision shop and have them recoat it with automotive acrylic lacquer. In the future, clean the furniture with Soft Scrub without bleach. Dear Glenn: I'm purchasing a home that has lots of trees in the yard. The shingles on the house exhibit some moss growth. Is there anything I can do to the shingles to deter this growth besides having the trees trimmed? -- Paul, Harper Woods Dear Paul: If you can get up on the roof, use an aluminum snow shovel to scrape off the majority of the moss. Remove the remainder by applying Moss & Mildew Remover by Security Products, (888) 241-9547. To keep the moss from coming back, get zinc strips called Shingle Shield by Chicago Metallic, (800) 323-7164, and attach them to the roof. What do you think?

One option would be to paint the vinyl siding - you can take a strip of it into your paint store and they should be able to analyze the color to match it exactly.Vinyl siding paint is 100% acrylic latex house paint. Some paint manufaturers have labeled it as "vinyl siding paint". RICHARDS #400 SATIN ACRYLIC is excellent for vinyl siding and if a higher gloss is preferred, then use the #200 gloss acrylic. Sherwin Williams' vinyl siding paint is called “Duration” or “Super Paint”. They also sell a cleaner called "Pro Clean Prep Wash", but you can do the same with a detergent, water and adding TSP to etch the surface for adhesion. Their primer is called "Prep Rite Bonding Primer". However, anything that is done to cover the oxidized vinyl is only a band-aid until the cause of the problem is determined and is properly dealt with, as the problem will most likely return in one form or another.

Looking at the pictures again, I do see some weep hole streaks under the window edges and some near it, but the majority of the streaks on the right side of the wall look like they are impressions of the studs or heavier oxidization where the studs are. If they used metal strips to hang the siding vs. the traditional nailing or if there were aluminum studs not covered with sheathing, I could follow along the line of what John is saying. The nails are a possibility, but as Mike pointed out, they would most likely show up as round spots vs. the very straight lines you see. Again, I'm guessing as I've not run across anything like this. Looking under the siding may solve all of the mystery.

Ohhh, if only spring was here!

Bat(ter) is out on this one Henry - as crazy as it does sound!

Hard to tell from the pictures without a close-up. Vinyl siding does oxidize. The sunny side of the house will get most of the wear and tear. Did you use hot water to wash the siding? Some streak areas look too long and too even/straight to be streaks - looks almost like the studs imprinted on the vinyl. The sheathing would normally keep the studs from coming in contact with the siding but you never know - the siding may be attached directly to the studs. (???) Did you check to see if the streaks lined up with the weep holes in the siding? The weep holes are on the bottom edge of the siding (some are round holes about .063" dia. and others are narrow slots about .063" x .188"). Most of the weep holes I've seen are 24" apart (there could be other intervals). Can't tell from the pictures but it look like there are streaks at the window edges also which seems to indicate dirty water coming from behind the siding. Brushing with detergent is one way to remove the streaks, but I've found that a phosphoric acid based cleaner works best to remove the streaks. You can buy a commercial grade cleaner or most grocery stores carry a product called "The Works - Tub and Shower Cleaner" (green label - 32 oz size spray bottle - buy 4 or 1 gallon under $15). Works great on cleaning dried streaks on siding (also works well cleaning rust off vinyl siding). Normally, we make a streak check around the house before we leave and dry off runs with a dry truck brush and rags. If you're getting excess runs, you may have to wait until it all stops - lot easier to clean that way than to go back.

1800 sq ft of siding is the equivalent of a 30'x60' trailer. $125 for 1 hour of work is not out of line. If you can wash houses in 2 hours, and give pricing over the phone (no on-site estimates), then $150 (as much as you may not like it) is not very unreasonable. It's not also not unreasonable if using labor that is paid $10 per hour. A specific discussion with your competition on HOW MUCH to charge is illegal. U.S. law specifically makes discussion of pricing between competitors (all or some) a federal offense. When, where, or how these discussions takes place doesn't matter. Any discussion of pricing by a group of people within the same industry is illegal in the U.S. It is called "price fixing". More info can be found on this subject at the US DOJ - Antitrust Div.