Paul B.

I don't claim to be a tax or Corporation expert, but here is what I know about the subject. If I'm incorrect, I blame everything on my CPA. The cost of setting up business as an LLC, Chapter S or Chapter C varies from state to state. Fees for state filing can be different for an LLC than a Chapter S Corp. Generally an LLC filing is less costly then a Chapter S. Same types of businesses are treated differently from city to city, state to state, even though treated the same by federal standards. Generally there are more tax forms to fill out if you are doing business as a Chapter S vs. an LLC, therefore CPA costs will be more expensive. This added paperwork and related costs may be at state level vs. federal. The difference for me would have been both at state and federal levels. The "correct" business entity depends on individual circumstances and on understanding the advantages of each form of business. Only "YOU" can choose the "right" fit for your business. Here is one site that can help explain some of the differences between "LLC", "Chapter S" and "Chapter C" corporations. www.nolo.com/lawcenter/ency/index.cfm Here is quote from "Money Matters / Joseph Anthony" that explains the second most important difference (first being liability) between a "Chapter S" and a "Sole Proprietorship": Shareholders and employees of an S corporation do not pay Medicare or Social Security taxes on profits or dividends from the corporation. For example, a shareholder/employee receiving $55,000 in salary and another $20,000 as his or her share of profits would pay only an income tax on the $20,000. (Of course, the employee and employer are subject to employment taxes on the full $55,000 of salary.) "S Corporation" profits and losses pass through to owners, so the S corp itself doesn't pay federal income taxes. However, the corporation still has to file a tax return (Form 1120S) showing profits and losses. As a shareholder, you then report the pass-through of income and loss on your personal tax return. The corporation also will probably have to pay some sort of minimum annual state franchise fee or tax, and may have to file a state corporate income tax return as well.

Everett, The "misconception" subject is a deep subject, which I have many thoughts on but would need at least 1 chapter in a book (maybe even a whole paperback). I'll spare everyone the EXTRA-long post. When I paint, I use oil primer with acrylic and that provides long lasting results. I gathered that from many years of hands-on experience. I try to carry my personal habits into business and provide top quality results for my customers. Not using primer is sometimes a short cut …on the other hand, I’ve seen it out of lack of experience, lack of knowledge and lack of “READING THE LABEL ON THE CAN” or not reading and following instructions. If you haven't heard me say this, it goes like this: "I feel that I owe it to my customer to tell them at least 1 time what I feel are the correct procedures, best methods or what I feel is the best direction. After that, it's the customer's dollar (it used to be NICKEL). I'm willing to do things that are not the highest cost, as I understand that not everyone wants or can afford the highest quality as translated to high cost (choice between a Town Car and a Pinto) but will provide “A” quality job at all cost levels. (Somewhere in there is also a statement about willing to do things less than perfect as long as it's not illegal, immoral, etc., etc..)” I feel that letting your customers make decisions is important in a working relationship. Not all businesses have the luxury of offering one-way/one-cost service and survive. I think that’s a position you develop into, not necessarily start out on. (Of course, there are always exceptions.) As a contractor, if you know about moisture meters and you are not using it, …you are not considered professional (my opinion). You are guessing and you are betting with the customer’s money. "Under-Guarantees" fall in a similar category but carry an extra burden with it if you know it to be different. Now you are dealing with an unethical contractor who is willing to not tell the truth so they may have work in the future. This contractor is an uneducated contractor because they believe they can get more work by providing a lesser quality product or service. Sooner or later, the customer will find out. Guess what happens then? Recently, I observed this type of mentality on another board go unchallenged – posts, after post, after post.

If you drive a vehicle which is strictly used for business, you are most likely better off to deduct all expenses separately (gasoline, oil changes, tune-ups, etc.) vs. using the mileage deduction as $0.365 will most likely not cover all these expenses. Insurance, license and other such fees are not included in the $0.365 figure from the IRS. Even of you use this method you can still deduct these on top of the mileage as long as you are using the vehicle full time for business. However, if you are using a vehicle which is used part time for personal/family and the other part for business, than you need to use the mileage ($0.365) deduction. In this case, you may not deduct oil changes, tune-ups, license fees and insurance. If you are using $0.365/mile method of deduction for your vehicle, you can still deduct fuel cost for your equipment. Obtain a seperate receipt for fuel purchased for your equipment.

What are you trying to emulsify? An emulsifier is used to hold together things that normally would not mix. www.EnviroSpec.com carries a house wash detergent that is called "Emulsifier Plus" which is a chlorine friendly house detergent with gloss enhancer.

If they are fresh (1-2 weeks old) they will come off with hot water. After that it's strictly hand rubbing to get them off. If you find something that removes it, please share it.

$0.365 per mile is the current rate.

Two friends living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan were sick of winter so they booked a vacation trip to Australia. When the two got off the plane - still wearing down jackets, wool hats and snow shoes - they wondered into a pub and sat down. The locals wondered about these strangers, so one of the Aussies walked over to the visitors and said "G'day, mates. Where're you from?" "Saskatoon Saskatchewan," one of the Canadians replied. "Oh," said the Aussie, returning to his table. "So where are they from?" asked the other locals. "Don't know," replied the Aussie. "They don't speak English."

Why, of course?

What are you considering high volume? and low pressure?

ROB, ...ROB, ...ROB, There is absolutely no need to vent your chlorine containers. They've been selling and storing chlorine in sealed containers for years without a problem (check your grocery stores). By venting your container, you are letting the chlorine age (go flat) very quickly and escape into your airspace in the van. Sodium percarb will only last a few hours after mixing. Your best results with it are to mix fresh on site. If you mix in the morning and plan to use it in the afternoon, you've wasted your money. It works kind of like beer ..."once the lid is popped, it starts going flat." HD-80 (for example) which is Sodium Hydroxide based crystal, can be pre-mixed and stored. If you are not mixing it on site, you should let it cool before you put a lid on it. Other Sodium Hydroxide based chemicals are always in stored containers and are not vented. Other than mixing stronger acids with alkalines, it is most likely that your containers are swelling because of the heat in the van (enclosed van, summer sun, the heat generated from the P/W), not because of a chemical reaction. If your still concerned, pressure relief valves are better than venting all your chemicals into the inside of your van. You could be in more danger as the escaping fumes intermix inside your van. Think of all the fume producing items you are enclosing in that van: - Gasoline - Diesel fuel - Oil based stains - Chlorine - Sodium Hydroxide - Stain soaked rags and brushes. - Brush cleaning solutions - Acids (battery and other chemicals) Most likely, the only thing that is saving you is an open window or air conditioning. Think of all the possible long term harm you are causing yourself by breathing in those fumes. Keep your chemicals out of sun-light and heat and away from open fires and sparks. Think again very seriously before you start poking holes in your containers! "Safety First and Make IT Last!"

Everett, Thanks! You said what I thought you said. (...HUH?) Yes, I did notice the difference between the acrylic & oil based stains, as I specifically looked for the guarantee duration. What was interesting is their approach on the Deck Stain life expectancy (I assumed that it is because of the deck floor not the verticals) - "...evaluate re-staining needs every 2-3 years." I know I lost one bid because the home owner had a mindset that oil based solids are better than acrylics. I could see I lost him from the time I mentioned using Cabot Acrylic. Even when I said the primer was oil based and even when I offered "if you prefer oil based top coat...", I knew he didn't trust me because I suggested acrylic over oil. When painting or staining I've had long lasting success with oil based primer with acrylic based top coats. Painting metal surfaces you have no option but to use oil primer as a water based primer will cause oxidation (rust) to seep thru. Some folks already know that Cabot is a premium stain (especially if they read Consumer Reports or have seen the price per gallon in the store). So my prices automatically reflect a premium price when I offer Cabot. You know, the "good, ...better, ...best" approach. On most of the existing 2-tones (which I have seen), the verticals are failing after 2-3 years. There is absolutely NO GOOD REASON for this with a good product. I explain this to the customer along with how to achieve a longer lasting finish. After some investigation (talking with customers, contractors, paint & stain supply houses and looking at the failing surfaces) here are my conclusions. In overwhelming majority of cases, premature failure was not caused by a poor quality product but because of: - Improper surface preparation. - Painting or staining before wood was dry enough. - Not priming when painting. Some other reasons for early failure are: - Painting or staining below 50 degree temperatures - Painting or staining in extremely high temperatures (direct sunlight and high humidity). - Water based stain or paint was stored over winter and was allowed to freeze before used in spring. - Not applying enough coats of the product (especially products that call for more than 1 coat). - Not waiting long enough between coats (not allowing one coat to dry before 2nd coat is applied). Most people don't read the labels on the container or do not totally understand what they read or choose to ignore some of the steps I know that the majority of new construction contractors (in the sub-division production environment) skip priming or applying a 2nd coat (when they can get away with it) because it's their way to make extra money and they are long gone when the surface finish fails.

Thanks Mike!

Mixing Chlorine (which is an alkaline) with D-Limonene (an acidic solution) can cause a reaction like that. D-Limonene is a citrus acid, with stronger acids you will get a more violent and poisonous reaction. It is important to read your labels! ...and never forget - "Safety First and Make IT Last!"

Let me see if I can parrot back what I thought you said: You give them 2 options with Pro VT - No primer - Primer with 2 top coats at a higher price ?????? Is the Pro VT finish a semi-gloss?

He tells me there is no 6173. He has a 6136 is that it?

You mean we don't have to drill holes any more?

Everett, It is the White that I'm primarily interested in. I'm looking to get 10-12 years life on the verticals. Pro VT claims 12 year guarantee on new wood (primer and 2 top coats). The coverage rate is double (300-500) compared to the Deck Stain at 150-250 sq ft per gallon. I do pass on the costs, however if I can cut my material costs on Cabot, I can save about 50% on the top coat. It may not be a lot on smaller decks, however I have (5) 2-tones lined up for this spring that are over 1000 sq ft for the verticals (one of the 5 is over 2100 sq ft.). On those 5, I could save over $800 on materials IF...

Mike C. - EXTREME Not SOOOO Fast! ...I'm still confused as to what product you use for the touchless gutter cleaning. In one of your earlier posts you stated you use the 6173 Truck wash for it but PressureTek has no such product. What is the product you use and what mix do you apply it. What is the final ratio as it hits the gutter.

Just a tidbit on Marathon: They are getting ready to start a lottery for selling what is called affordable housing. The homes in discussion are Pritm Singh's Overseas Village. To qualify for this lottery (remember affordable housing) a single person's income can earn no more than $47,000 and it goes up from there for a family of 2, 3, topping out at about $74,000. The starting homes are 1 bedroom, 1 bath and start at $120,000. They also offer 2 bedroom, and 3 bedroom homes. Try to sell a few of these in East St. Louis, across the river from St. Louis.

Ryan, Sodium Hypochlorite is one of the few cleaning solutions approved by the roof shingle manufacturers. Liquid Pool Shock mixed with water works very well. 10%-12% concentrate diluted to 3-4% or 1:3 ratio will do the job. No heavy rinsing is required. If want, you can go without rinsing it. If you add anything else, such as Sodium Hydroxide, or TSP, (as some folks do) you should rinse. If you understand the chemistry of shingles, you know that asphalt is an oil base product. Sodium Hydroxide is a degreaser which will remove these oils and help the deterioration process. Hard to quantify how fast the deterioration is. Walking on a roof also harms the shingles. We use an X-jet to apply, taking care to keep pressure off shingles and to control overspray.

Thanks Reed! Is that 1 or 2 coats on top of primer and is it a semi-gloss?

Not very likely, Rob.

James, I can't say I'm familiar with Paul Auger the organ player. Sounds like you had a good time.

Jon, Why do you think we would ever take you seriously?

Bleach added to a strong alkaline detergent that also contains a small amount of Sodium Hydroxide would not have exploded like that. All those components are alkaline or base and on the same end of the pH scale. Must be something else that was added. We've used SunBrite's AllBrite, Rowletts Citracleen, Hotsy's Ripper 1 and about 5 or 6 others. Ripper I works well, but is expensive at $50 per 5 gallons (they say you can mix it 1:100 or 1:50 but the most effective strength for housewash was about 1:20 maybe 1:25). It's kind of expensive at $10 per undiluted gallon. AllBrite works excellent and can also be used on gutters. For housewash, we mix it 1:25. With shipping, it runs under $6 per gallon (undiluted). It's an inexpensive gutter cleaner at 1:1 or 1:2 dilution since all others run over $10 per gallon. Undiluted Citracleen runs about $3.25 per gallon with shipping (55 gallon kit). Mixed at 1:25 makes it very economical. We have not used it enough under all conditions to call it the one. Next year we will know for sure.