Paul B.

There are a fair number of different designs out there. Most are of a fairly simple design. Maybe able to help if you can post the print/drawing. Whats in your rebuild kit? Bearing(s), seals, lube, snap ring? Depending on the design, the bearings COULD be the most difficult to remove. One of the most important things to remember is to keep contamination / dirt out of the bearings (make sure you have a clean area to work in).

We use Prosoco 600 Detergent or Vana Trol.

Personally I have a hard time believing that he averages $150 per hour for every person on his crew. Does he have his bricklayers setting up scaffolding and mixing the mortar? The washing wouldn't have to be by a brick layer. He's either not seeing the potential or he doesn't care. Regardless... Our goal is to average about 300 sq ft per hour or 2100 full and broken bricks per hour per man. That's visualized as a 10ft high wall 30 feet long by the washers. At $30 per 1000 that's $63 per hour per person. When we get $35/1000 then the hourly goes up to $73.50 and at $40/1000 it shoots to $84/hr. Sometimes it goes faster, other times a bit slower but we try to work toward long term averages.

If the mason can sub the cleaning out at that rate, how much is he billing for it? I know around here if the masons were getting those rates, they would definitely not sub out the work, but do it themselves. That's over 200% net profit. A box type 50K brick job like a Walgreens would take about 2 weeks to brick with a crew of 8-9 (under decent conditions). They want the work knocked out fast being on fast schedules. The philosophy is that any day a business is not open, it's money that they can't make or can't recoup. In addition, the longer the job lasts, the more money is spent. There are not a whole lot of extras to make money on these jobs as they have only a couple of doors, about 6-8 windows. It's usually a 2 story box with level terrain. Of course you can lay a lot of brick in a day on a straight, uninterrupted runs. $1428 per 1000 bricks is an awsome rate for base. Depending on the shape, with EXTRAS, I could see it going that high for commercial. Of course, it doesn't matter what the rate is if there is not much work to be had. I hope things pick up for you in the masonry cleaning arena. Around here, residential production masonry starts at $340/1000 plus extras. Custom starts anywhere but generally about $375/1000 plus extras. The extras can take you to an average of $700-$800/1000. Commercial starts at about $375/1000 for the simpler work like a Wendys, McDonalds type building and move up to $750/1000 for larger buildings such as schools, auditoriums, churches, etc. Extras woul inflating these numbers. Construction is still booming around here (for the time being).

Steve, You described just about every mistake this person made. He did do a few things correctly. Seems like all we wash around here are sandfaces bricks. We limit pressure to no more than 1500 psi on rinsing. Cleaning the Keystones are a bit of a concern to me also. I have seen them turn gray and have to be replaced (not on my watch fortunately).

Unfortunately you would not get any jobs for those rates around here. If you bear with me I'll show you why. Lets take a new Walgreens store with about 50K bricks. Bid at your rate of $60 per 1000 (with lift and materials) would be written up at $3000. - First, they would not give this job to a 1 man crew (owner operator) because the bill-out rate would be too high and normally the schedules would not allow for several days on the job. - They could expect a 3 man crew to complete this job in 24 man hours. - The 3-man crew would be: - (1) Supervisor $24/hr. with a 2.0 mark-up is $72/hr. x 8 hrs. = $576. - (2) Laborers @ $10/hr. with a 2.0 mark-up is $30/hr. x 3 people x 8 hrs. = $480 - Materials are $120 for this job plus 20% mark-up = $144 - Lift for 1 day = $200 (delivered to site). - Pressure washer rental (2 x $60/day) = $120 plus handling fee of $100 = $220. Total for the job = $1620 or $32.4 / 1000 bricks This would be an absolute top rate, as most will not allow a 2.0 mark-up. A more realistic mark-up is between 1.4 - 1.8. In reality, a 2 man crew or 22 man hours can finish this job with a lift. (16 hrs. plus 2 hrs O.T. per person or 6 straight hrs. = 22 hrs.) At 50K bricks at $30/1000 = $1500 divided by 22 hrs. = $68/hr. Subtract material at $2.6 per 1000 bricks and lift at $4/1000 and you are still over $60 per hour. Your rate, with supplies and lift would be over $136/hr. So you can see why you would not be awarded a job like that in this area. In reality, I bid a similar job of 50K bricks at $30/1000 including mat'l. and no lift. I did not get the job. I lost it to a 5 person crew that bid it at $27.312 per 1000 or $1,365.60 Here was their breakdown, as the calculations were in pencil on the back of their bid: (1) supervisor at $50 per hr. x 8 hrs. = $400 (4) laborers at $20.80 each x 8 hrs. each = 665.60 (2) pressure washers @ $6.25 per hr. = $100 (1 lot) chemicals $150 (1 lot) misc. supplies $50 I watched another similar building of 50K brick being washed by a crew of 6 with 1 pressure washer. It took them 8 hrs. to finish the job, but I will withhold my comments on their procedures and job quality. The super told me the job was awarded at $20/1000 bricks or about $1000. Unfortunately, quality is 2nd to cost with these builders. As long as no one complains about the quality, they will go with the lowest prices, as the super gets a % of the total $ saved on the project (that is their incentive).

And the last one:

Another:

Can't find a photo of the one that ran about 5.7 Sq. Ft. / Ln. Ft. but that was the one that changed my thought process about trying to use 3 as my standard number. Here is another one that's interesting:

Ron, I've run across some railings that were 5.7 sq ft per linear foot, while others ran at 2.3 sq ft per linear ft. Generally, I think you are fairly safe at 3 sq ft per linear foot, however, you need to recognize that there are some which could throw off your numbers drastically. Reed, I read somewhere that Ready Seal is available in some 84 Lumber shelves in Texas. Will it spread to other shelves? That's how companies make large $$$. I'm not sure how much national advertising and recognition would hurt. The railing in the photo is about 2.3 sq ft per linear foot including the posts or about 1.6 Sq. Ft. / Ln. Ft. without.

I bid the railing price by the square foot and it recieves the same as the deck flooring (there are exceptions where I charge more for the railing for example, if the spindles are intricate and have a solid water based stain on them). It would not be smart to bid the railing cost at 40% of the decking in my opinion. You end up using a bit more stain on the rails anyway and it also takes a bit longer. In adiition, some stains recommend 2 coats on verticals and 1 coat on horizontal surfaces. If anything, your railings should cost more than your flooring. (Which is funny, because I don't know how many times I've had a customer tell me the square footage of their deck on the phone, without considering the railing. My response is along the lines of: "So you do not wish to refenish your railing?") Stripping increases the cost, based on the fact that you need to neutralize/brighten afterwards, which is another step in the process (increasing your time and material costs). Light stripping (as in a failing oil based semi stain) would get the same price as washing (plus the neutralizing cost). Water based stains, stains with teflon, multi coats of solids, etc. would increase the cost based on longer dwell times (time is money) or several application of stripper, or extra sanding, defelting, etc. If the deck floor is over 600 square ft., I discount the floor price only, by 10%. Over 1000 sq ft gets another 10% discount (floor). Decks with very large flooring (say over 1500 sq ft) would get consideration for an additional discount. Stains play a large part in the total cost also. I get TWP for $16 per gallon, Ready Seal for $22 and Cabot is $27 per gallon (you get better coverage with Cabot than TWP or Ready Seal so you should know your price per square foot of coverage). If I use Cabot, I pick it up locally (time is money) where as if I use Ready Seal, it's shipped to the front door. I mark up the cost of both (shipping and handling). Ready Seal is not available on store shelves in my area, so I can play with the mark-up to what I think I can sell it for, whereas Cabot is in several stores so I stay consistent with my mark-up. If I use Cabot solid for example, I apply a primer and 2 coats of finish which increases the cost dramatically. In otherwords, you have to look at all items that can impact your costs: material costs, material coverage rate, supply costs (tape, plastic, tarps, etc.). You can try and build these into your square foot cost or you can add it on at the end. But there are also other factors that may increase the price, such as how much masking has to be done on the deck and below it. Terrain and landscaping plays a large factor also. A deck closely surrounded by barberry bushes gets a 10% increase. I applied for hazardous duty pay on one job where the troops had to battle horseflies all day. When I'm finished with a square foot price, I cross check it against effort hours it will take to do the job. If there is a large difference, then I adjust or look for errors in my estimate. Then of course you also have to consider your competition of equal value and how good of a sales person you are with your prices. It can get complex, until you establish your basis for cost, then it gets easier. With each deck behind you the process gets a bit less complicated and you get a better feel for the variables.

One dog talking to another: "Woof, woof, wooof, wooof, wooof, woof?" Sorry, forgot to translate. One dog talking to another: "What if the hand that feeds us is surprisingly tasty?"

Somewhere in there are also: The Wheel. Ice and refrigerator Air conditioning - Roman days Indoor plumbing / bathroom - Roman days The soccer ball The gasoline engine. Cell phones Electricity Radio Television Ships Airplanes Guns and my second favorite - waterbed.

BEER!

Is anyone else getting spammed by a .Net Messenger Message for Safety related update? I've received no less than 30 of the same messages wanting me to visit this web site and update from there. I don't intend to do anything but erase their messages.

Some ugly sand on the brick by the right side window on the back porch.

Is that a garage with a porch? Or is that the "Dog House"? Beats the heck out of sleeping on the couch!

When you are mixing colored Cemex for mortar joints, it needs to be a consistent ratio for every batch. Deviations in water amount, sand amount, freezing temperatures and rain will change the color consistancy. It gets a bit ugly as you can see.

This is what the color of the mortar joint should look like (consistantly) around the house.

Check out the sloppy mess on the keystone and the efflorescence in the mortar joints. The joint color should be a maroon shade.

Jon, It's not the number of brick they lay, it's the number of bricks used on the job plus extras. Some unethical masons break bricks on purpose, because they get paid for those also. It's not unusual to have a thousand broken bricks on a job site due to breakage in shipment, or being dropped or broken incorrectly where a half brick or angled brick is needed. The extras are the real money makers in masonry. Extras are projections like sills, arches around windows, doors, vent areas, gable projections and quoins. Small gables, large gables, 1 story and 2 story fire places, keystones, lintels (above windows and doors) etc., etc. are also charged as extras. Good money is also there for masons if they supply the materials.

I normally don't get spammed as I don't sign up for a lot of stuff unless I use a throw away address - and I've been lucky with even those. This was my first major spam and I was surprised where it came from (Spamming from a sefety web site?). Makes me wonder - if you know what I mean.

Beth, You never answered my earlier question about what type of oils are in Wood Tux. What makes it have the ability to be re-coated for applying maintenance coating vs. having to completely strip it? To me, not having to strip a stain as it starts to fail makes a great selling point, as does the paraffin/crude oil base (such as Ready Seal) which can be used as a sell point against a linseed oil based (food for mold & mildew) stain. I was munder the impression that all crude/paraffin oil based stains can be reapplied without stripping (at least for 2 or 3 apps.). I always like to know what I'm selling - makes it easier for me.

Cabot claims 400-600 sq ft per gallon for their series 1400 semi-transparent stain deck stain. It is a linsee oil/alkyd resin based stain. Wolman Durastain claims 300-350 sq ft per gallon, 1 coat application. The semi-transparent is an alkyd/acrylic blend, linseed oil boosted with acrylic. They claim stronger mildewcide which is needed to conteract the linseed oil base (which is a food source for mold & mildew). They also claim great water repellancy with a guarantee and warrantee for a minimum of 2 years. The stain is new for this year (as I understand) so it's hard to believe that consumer reports can qualify on its durability aspects pertaining to life and color, etc.. unless they are reading Wolman's test reports. What's also funny to me is that their initial released flyer shows it as being "Rated #1 Semi-Transparent Stain Formula!" The wording itself is interesting as it implies something different than what it says. There is a difference between being rated as a number #1 stain and being rated as the #1 formula. In my opinion, you can't / or shouldn't realistically be rated as number one quality until you have been in use for at least a couple of years. Personally, I don't think the demand is that high, I just think the supply is low, as they are waiting on demand numbers to see how their marketing is kicking in. Regarding pricing, (in my area) I can negotiate a very good price on Wolman products (up to a 40% discount), but the Cabot prices are not very flexible, which makes the total dollars spent about the same. To me, Cabot semi-transparent stains colors are not as attractive and the semi is very thick, making it look closer to a semi-solid or diluted solid. However, it can be thinned, mixing it up to 1:1 with their Natural Base. I'm not sure what this does for their solids content (most likely reduces it a couple percent in their range of 29-33% by volume).

Thanks, but the answers did not directly address my question(s). As quickly as they came, it stopped. I was surprised that .Net Messenger would spam. Odd, coming from a safety web site.