Paul B.

$25-$30 per 1000 standard is common for the southern Ohio area. With standard size brick, we figure 7 per square foot or 142 sq ft per 1000. One watchout on commercial is they frequently use oversize bricks, in which case your sq ft would increase. Yes, per 1000 is the common language used by builders, and we don't mind if the broken/unused bricks are included in the price, though we never clean them.

We were cleaning the gutter exterior on an older house. It had green algae, mold, mildew anything else you could imagine. We spot cleaned a small section with our standard diluted solution and it took everything off (including the coating) down to shinny metal. Tried Simple Green with the same results. I had the customer look at it and offered to paint the entire gutter (for free) after cleaning. She assured me it looked a lot nicer than it did before, and wanted the rest of it cleaned - regardless. When the job was over, she had a nice shinny gutter she was pleased about and gave my tech a nice tip.

Here in southern Ohio the present rate for water/sewage is $6 per 1000 gallons.

I noticed you are also challanged with the dreaded "stripes / lap marks". We use 4035 nozzles on similar set-up as yours with striping showing up from time to time. We use pool shock diluted 1:3 after cleaning with the surface cleaner. It does not help the striping, but it takes care of the algae, mold and mildew. If you let it dwell long enough, it will keep it from reoccurring for a long time.

To get rid of spiders without using pesticides: Mix 1 cup of distilled white vinegar with a few drops of coconut oil. The solution can be applied indoor or outdoor.

MEK works great removing Ready Seal from concrete and flagstone surfaces.

It's hard to say from this end what had happened. I agree it would seem hard to burn plants and grass with less than 1% dilution of bleach if pre-wetting and rinsing also takes place. We use stronger concentrations most of the time without causing burns (knock on wood). You may get a better feel if you ask the customer how they think it should be resolved. - I never offer an appology before looking at the problem/challange. - Through the years I have learned to not always offer solutions first (unless it's very simple and straight forward). I normally I ask the customer FIRST, what it would take to satisfy them on resolving the problem. (Why offer $100 when the customer may be willing to settle for $10, etc., etc.) At times I've found that they want nothing more than to tell you and let off steam - Customer satisfaction. Of course if they start out high (want all plants and grass replaced), you know what you're faced with. On contracts, make sure it is stated that you have the first option for repair.

Ditto..."Satisfaction Guarantee on Workmanship." (or is it "workpersonship"?) Materials applied have their own warranty - such as stains, paints, etc.. Sears just recently change their return policy - I think it's good as there were too many people returning things after 1 or 2 years of use. Now it's limited to 30 and 90 days - with receipt.

- The prosecution did a terrible job - they should be sent back to school. There were too many charges that were hard to prove - kidnapping??? There should have been 1 charge made and full focus/force applied. I think LA should sub-contract prosecution of high visability cases. There are bound to be a couple defense lawyers willing to take them on - if the price is right. - Some parents testified that their children were staying over with MJ but stated nothing happened. I think they were afraid to say anything different because then it would be found that they contributed and may have their kids taken away or end up in jail. He should have been at least convicted of "contributing to the dilenquency of an Adult". There are lot of parents that should be prosecuted for allowing their kids to sleep over. Especially since this was not the first incident or accusation. Has anyone heard the word chaperon(s)? Billy Graham protected himself from rumours and accusations as he always made sure there was a third person present during any encounters with women (other than his wife).

I agree. It looks like bad prep work (did not rinse enough and/or neutralize) and bad finish application (looks like a very young kid worked on it). Deckscape is not a BAD product. Prep work is crucial to all wood restoration. The homeowner missed the boat on this one and has no one to blame but themselves. I think SW is very generous to offer anything at all. If you can't get SW to give you brushes or other things, take the stripper (never turn down FREE stuff). You may not want to use it on this application - save it for another job that requires less strength.

Tried PP in colder weather (upper 40's) a couple of times and did not perform well, but neither did some other products. I find AllBrite to be effective all around for siding and gutters. For gutters, it can be applied with an x-jet which makes it foam once it hits the surface. 95% of the thime there is no brushing needed (there are some exceptions). Dwell time is very short, mostly less than a minute. When applied with our X-jet at full strength, it's hitting the surface at about 50% strength. Mostly we dilute it 1:1/2 (water) - this gives us about a 30% strength on the substrate surface. Personally, I think foaming is crucial to the process, as it helps it adhere while it's working.

So what would happen at Lowe's to those 85 people that answered YES honestly? OK, maybe their stupid but NOT liars. A company I worked for a while back was giving (for sake of not remembering it's real name) an intelligent test to all the employees by an independent company. They scrapped the program after they discovered that the hierarchy's score was much lower than the peons under them.

We've also finished deck staining in very light rain using Ready Seal. Had short but heavy rain several times 30-45 minutes after finishing the stain application. Knock on wood, no rework has been necessary due to rain.

I like the 3 gallon Hudson pump-ups myself. One of the reasons is they can be rebuilt inexpensively. I replace the hose with longer 3/8" clear braided. In any case, for safety reasons, pick one with pressure relief capabilities.

In southwest Ohio my low end bid would look like this: Concrete cleaning $0.06-$0.10 per sq ft. - 1500 sq ft at $0.08 = $120 (about 1-1/2 hours of work). Deck cleaning only percarb w/TSP and brightener - 650 sq ft at $0.28 = $182 (about 3 hours of work) House wash - looks simple, no gutters (about 2 hours of work) = $150 Total = $450 plus tax (if applicable) 6-1/2 - 7 hours of work ($450 divided by 7 = $64.29 per hour). NOTE: I think your SEALING/STAINING quote sounds way TOO LOW 4 gallons of stain at $25 per gallons would run you about $100. 3-4 hours to apply (even at $50 per hour) your finish should be minimum of $300 $482 for cleaning plus sealing would make the effort about $0.74 per sq ft. NOTE 2: From what I have gathered over the past several years, our area is one of the lowest (on average) in the states. Residential concrete sells for $0.06- $0.08 per sq ft (mostly $0.06). House washes average about $0.75 to $0.90 per linear foot for 1 story (gutter cleaning included). Deck restoration including stripping, brightening and staining (including materials) runs between $0.60 per sq ft to $0.90. Mind you these are very generalized averages. Higher prices can be had with good sales skills and face to face presentations. BUT also, about 40% of the contractors bid even lower than the averages (most do acceptable to good work at low prices). Keep in mind that our area has one of the lowest cost of living in the nation and housing has also been at the slowest inflation increase of about 4% per year(based on USA Today articles).

If you are the "Answer" then "What is the Question?"

Scott, I may have even purched them at a local hardware store or Home Depot. I'll have to look in my files to be certain - it's been over a year since I purchased the last batch. I'll search my electronics files on Sunday and post results. The valve is a PCi (Pressure Components Inc.) MPV-Series part.

This past Sunday I took my dad to the ballgame (Reds vs. Indians). We had decent seat for $35 each on the 3rd base side behing the visitor dugout. This seat, in comparison to the $9 seat in the last row of the upper deck made bionocular use unnecessary. (I did see a descendant of Bob Uecker sitting in the last row all by his lonesome.) Four section of seats behind home plate are nice for a different perspective on the game, but at $200 per seat, we passed on them. We got there about an hour and a half before the games start to watch the players warm up, take batting practice, and sign autographs. My dad and I think The Great American Ball Park is nice, but we still like old Crosely, Wrigley or Tiger stadiums better for the close and personal feel in almost any seat you chose. A few years ago I visited Tiger stadium for the last time with my better half as we were in Detroit at Belle Island for the Grand Prix. We chose last row seats with the bleecher bums over much better seats behind either dugout. The atmosphere was great and we had a great time cheering for the home team. Tigers won! Throughout the game, a score of food and drink vendors ran up and down the stairs selling $6 beers, $4 bottles of water and $3.50 hot dogs. The best deal they offered (in my opinion and a few kids near by) were the cups of ice cream for $2.75. Between a couple of innings I went upstairs to the consession stands and I offered my business card discretely to people exiting the beer line. Handed out about 50 cards. I figured anyone that is willing to pay $6 for a beer can certainly afford some of the services I offer. Who knows, maybe I'm wrong - they're most likely saving the deck restoration money for the next ballgame.

Results are slowly coming in: Our first call from the ballgame (if you recall) was for washing the back side of a house. When I went to look at the property I was initially very frustrated because it looked like the only area on the house that needed cleaning was the second story portion in the back. Looked like about 30-45 minutes worth of work. After looking around a bit I noticed the front concrete walkway was dirty along with the 3000 sq ft driveway. I also noticed he had a small deck in the back by the pool that was in sad shape. I called the customer later that day and told him that the work he was looking to have done was about $50 worth and my minimum was $150. I told him he could opt for the minimum or I could clean the deck and or the concrete also which would make up some of the difference. As we talked, it came out that he was actually wanting the deck torn down so he could build a much larger one. He asked if I knew someone reliable that build decks. (Last year I partnered with an old friend in another business venture where we do building restoration, fire damage work, insurance work, roofing, exterior/interior painting, drywalling, concrete work and deck building, etc. - ...One call, we do it all!) Bottom line ends up that after setting an appointment, my partner and I went out to his house. After our session, we came out with an extensive amount of work scope. We took our sketches and notes and spent the rest of the day and most of the night finishing our estimate(s). We now have approved contract(s) to proceeed on. Scope of work: - Tear down existing deck. - Design and build new deck. - Stain deck after wood dries. - Concrete work around pool area (tear out and new pour). - Clean and seal all concrete around home (walkways, driveway, pool apron). - Wash house siding The $50 ($150 minimum) work turned out to be well worth the trip. My dilemma has always been one between frustration and joy. Should I tell a customer we have $100 plus minimum or should I go anyway and look for myself, look to see what other work can be had. Bottom line is if you don't go, you don't know what other opportunities you could miss out on with that customer or others in the neighborhood. I do a modified version of customer screening. Ask a lot more questions and remind the customer that we do just about any kind of work. I have had a few more calls fro the baseball game including an estimate to clean a town hall and a couple homes in an exlusive part of town (homes start at $1MM - lots of old money). I think I may go to another game and maybe sit in the $200 seats next time. (I don't think so! I just can't support that pricing structure.)

Happy endings are always nice!

Changing nozzles with the P/W running and the trigger engaged can be somewhat hazardous and you stand a good chance of blowing out (losing the o'ring from the Q.D. Our problem always seemed to be that without a ball valve, changing nozzle or lance was very difficult. With a ball valve, you turn it off, then you can relieve the pressure by pressing the trigger and then the lance/gun or nozzle can be easily removed. The ball valves we use are rated at 5000 psi and are all easy to turn after several years of being in service. These valves way in at 13.5 ounces with the S.S. Q.D's attached. They cost less than $20. Your ball valve rating should always be equal or higher than your machines pressure rating if you are using it on the high pressure end.

I get the last words in all the time... YES DEAR!

Minor detail - taxes in most countries are higher than in the US. Look at England at around 50% and Canada close to it. Spain with 15% unemployment and high taxes along with France at 10% unemployment and high taxes. OK, so Kuwait has no taxes at all - so what's the point. Minor point - your property taxes can be deducted if you itemize - so you're not double taxed. Minor point - fuel taxes vary from state to state and are used to fund roads (South Carolina is 33% tax). Should we go back to dirt roads? Well, maybe - more work for pressure washers. I think there are some very good points throughout this discussion: - Always look for the opportunity to up-sell. The less time you drive from job to job, the more time you spend working. - It's easier to keep existing customers (so take good care of them) than it is to acquire new ones. The ones you have worked for know the quality they are getting and are more likely to pay the higher prices. I have a repeat customer that has his plastic deck washed every year - we charge $150 because that's our minimum. The work is done in less than 1.5 hours (1 person) with 15 minutes of hand detailing. Every year he tips an extra $30. WE WILL DO A LOT TO KEEP THIS CUSTOMER. - Regions vary greatly and even within regions the localities will have major differences based on demographics. - If you have 20 businesses that charge $200 for the some job (and do it well) anyone else will have a hard tiome charging $300 doing the same work. - Owner operators (1 person businesses) have a hard time competing with businesses that have low cost laborers. If I have 4 employees that I pay $12 an hour I can charge them out at $40 each and make good money. The single operator can't bill him/herself out and be profitable. In our area the accepted labor rate (billing out) is about $30 per hour in the construction and restoration trades. Pressure washing is grouped in with this bunch. I don't care for it so I need to change the strategy and convince people that we can do things that others can't. - Success (in any business) comes from sales and being able to differentiate yourself from others that may do what you do. - To improve your selling capabilities, you need to learn to deal with price objections. The car washing vs. house washing comparison is excellent example of one approach. Breaking it down into monthly and weekly numbers is a method that is taught to most sales people. - You have to be comfortable with the product and/or service you are providing - confidence will show thru. - Sometimes we oversell - we don't listen to what the customer wants - we want to sell them what we want not what they need. Educating the customer is one thing but trying to sell them a Cadillac when they want or need an economy car is another. While you may make the Cadillac sale, chances are eventually the customer will resent the sales person for life. You lost a lifetime customer and everyone else that he badmouths to. - Remember, you need to try and keep the customer for life (be it theirs or yours).

I think you nailed it. Percarb is safer around vegetation than Sodium Hydroxide or Sodium Hypochlorite and is safe for cleaning a finished surface. Percarb is also safer around stained siding. You have to be careful with precarbs that contain TSP (such as Timber Clean and EFC-38 to name a few) as they will strip the siding stain even at weaker mix ratios. As for Sodium Hydroxide - it's in most cleaning products including hand soaps.

Sounds like she wants a solid latex over the oil based semi??? Most likely you can cover the oil based stain with latex but as with anything else, there are always exceptions. I would double check with the mfg. of the oil based stain. There are some film forming oil based stains that do not like anything else on top unless you primer it first or use a liquid surface preparation such as Wil-Bond. Wil-Bond as an example, softens the surface (making it tacky) allowing for a tighter and longer lasting bond of the top coat. This stuff is $$$$ and contains all kinds of good stuff: Toluene, Acetone, Methanol, Naphta and Isopropyl Alcohol. Does not save money or time.