Paul B.

Morgan, I use 3/8" tubing and my draw rate is where it should be. If Steven tested both, I would have take his word on it as having different draw rates (as I did not test with 1/4"). However, everyone keeps telling me that when I use the Close-up nozzle, my draw rate should not change. I still have not resolved this issue, as my draw rate is half as much with the Close-up nozzle as it is without it. (I've talked to both Ron Strickland and Steven - neither have been able to help resolve this issu for me.) Thanks!

Here is the photo.

Morgan, I believe at one time the X-Jet was selling for $149 + change and the Close Range Nozzle was $11.95 additional. Now I think the combination is selling for $159 + change. I don't believe the flow rate functionality makes any difference between the 1/4" or the 3/8" as the fitting at the bottom of the X-Jet nozzle is the limiter - it's a 1/4" fitting (see attached photo). That's a 1/4 MPT x 3/8" Barb. The big difference would be in the 1/4 line kinking and rolling much easier than the 3/8", especially if wanted to go to a longer length like 30 or 50 ft.

Modify the verbage on the side of the MEK can to read "May work on some Epoxy Resins before curing. To be used in conjunction with chisel or grinder after curing."

The QD was in my mind also, I was trying to see if you could avoid having to unroll all of the hose every time, but now that I think about it we almost always use most of the 200ft of hose on the high pressure hose reels anyway. Testing and problem solving is what has made me money in the past and will hopefully continue if and when I need it. I can't say I like doing it all the time as it can get boring, but how else will you know how your equipment performs? Our Shur-flo pumps have less capacity than the X-Jet draw rate so it won't do me any good to test that. Thanks!

Ron P., If you have seals and o'-rings that are compatible or more compatible with bleach, your pump life should see minimal decrease in life. Sodium Hypochlorite removes oils or other additives in materials that keep them pliable/soft. Even if you rinse, the water will not put back the content of what the Sodium Hypochlorite removed. I don't have a cross section of a pump in front of me, so I can't speak to anything else, other than if the materials are sensitive to Sodium Hypochlorite, their life will be shortened also. How fast things corrode, how fast oils are removed from the o-rings and seals are difficult to predict, but it corrolates to the compatability issue. Why don't you take 3 oz. of a 1 pound bag of crystal pool shock (65%) and mix into a gallon of water? Test the pH of that mix and a gallon of 12-1/4% liquid Mix the remainder in 3 oz. increments also and see how they compare. You can alter it by increasing and decreasing the crystal content. Remember: Safety First and Make IT Last! Wear appropriate safety gear.

Ron P., An area of challange to overcome with the dual hose set-up would be making a dual feed hose reel. Two hoses rolling up on 1 reel need water and chemical handling capability in the rotary union and at the connection point. It can be done, but would be a special - unless you know someone that makes a stock one. Unless the Dema valve can shut off totally, you would still need the ball valve (I wish they were only $2). Relocating the valve closer to the trigger for easier access would be helpful. The hanging tube is a pain in the butt and could be modified with a 45 or 90 fitting to have it follow the wand path back. Testing may show if there is any vortex issues with the 45 or 90. I'm not sure how a vortex would interface with a Shur-flo feed - you would most definitely need to overfeed the X-Jet so you're not starving it. Keep the ideas coming! Bob, I can relate to your story as I run across similar ones from time to time. I hang out at Lowe's and Home Depot a lot and every time I see someone buying a P/W I give them one of my cards. I tell them they can call me with any questions without an obligation. I get funny looks, but I do get calls from time to time. Some are by men, more are by women and a few actually have rolled over to be jobs. Anything higher than a ranch is a sinch. The other closer is the gutter cleaning demo. I carry photos with me for times when a hands on demo is not possible. I have made up some business cards with demo photos on the back. Most folks don't use the back of their cards, but I think it's wasted space if you don't have some kind of message on there. One of these days I'll take a bunch of flyers from HD and staple my cards inside, then put them back into the display slots - but that would be considered "too guerilla" wouldn't it. I love happy endings, don't you?

Perssonally, I think the frustration level is higher and time spent is longer changing out a proportioner than calculating a ratio. I admit it does take some time to learn how to calculate it, but once you know it makes you a bit smarter and allows you more flexibility. But, let me list a few of my reasons. (These aren't in any specific order.) 1) I think as a professional P/W, you (as in general you) should know how to calculate ratios. This power will provide you the ability to make changes in your chemical mix at any time, any place without the need for tools or parts (other than pencil & paper). Of course, you could always have a cheat sheet with all the ratios calculated for your favorite chemicals, but that would be a lot of work. 2) Not all mix ratios are covered in the kit so you end up making a compromise if you want a ratio that is not there. (I know this sounds picky, but I don't like to have a piece of equipment limit my flexability). 3) The pieces are very small and easy to lose. If you don't learn to calculate, what happens if you lose one? You have to wait til another is shipped to you. It could be especially bad if you lost one just before a job. (Again, I know I'm picky, because you could just insert the next size and be done with it.) 4) Changing the proportioners is not the easiest task to perform, especially if you needed to do it on a job site. (Remove the hose clamp, pull off the tube, remove the piece with needle-noze pliers, look on your chart, get a different color out - is this light brown, or medium brown?, install it, push the hose on the barb, install & tighten hose clamp.) The parts are tiny and again I'll say easy to lose. Now all this really doesn't sound like much of a chore until you experience it first hand. 5) If you have more than one machine and they are different GPM's the ratios will be different and could cause confusion (this is probably not that big of an issue for most folks, but may be for a few). 6) It's just another part to wear out. Minimize your spare parts. OK, maybe you shouldn't pitch the kit because none of the above items are an issue for you, but I still think it's a good idea to know how to calculate ratios.

Most epoxies are 2 part (A&B). One of these is the hardener which when mixed, starts the hardening/curing process. There are many types of epoxies out there with different hardeners. That is why I suggested calling the epoxy manufacturer for their recommendation, otherwise you could spend a lot of time and energy without getting any favorable results.

Try 70% - it may work (I always used 99.9%). - Again, this was not for cured epoxy resin so??? Some drug stores like CVS carry higher percentage content but not sure on the 99.9%. Always purchased it from chemical supply houses. Some electronics or even computer stores may carry it. Since Acetate didn't work, my bet would be with MEK. Sometimes mineral acids like HCl will break down the epoxy but this is risky if you don't know the content as the incompatability may be hazardous (the epoxy manufacturer should be able to tell you more before you take this path).

I understand that Extreme Solutions was coming out with a thickener for HD-80, for exactly what you are asking. Beth should carry it if it's available. If she doesn't drop in here, you can call her at (877) 426-9274. Sounds like you learned some KEY elements of deck restoration work: - Test for stripping as latex is more difficult to remove and therefore your charges should corrolate with that effort (however, your charges should not reflect inexperience - unless it lowers your price, nor should it reflect lack of organization). - Have lot a patience - most people run out of patience when it comes to allowing appropriate dwell time for chemicals (that applies to other chemicals and not just strippers). - You were correct when you said you should adjust and work in smaller sections at a time. The larger the area you are trying to work, the more difficult to keep track of dwell time and also afford the proper attention to each area. - Should have a checklist for each job on what type of chemicals you need to have and should also carry back-ups with you. Try to carry more than what you need as "Murphy" looms over all our heads (Whatever can go wrong, will!) - The one thing that will help you the most is what you take away from each job in learnings and how you apply your learnings on each subsequent job. - Deck restoration is one of the more if not most difficult trades to learn (in the arena of P/W), as there are many types of wood, each one is aged and finished differently; so many different stains have been applied and in so many different methods. Hang in there, don't give up! After all, if it was that easy to do, the customers would not need the contractor! Would they? The diversity and potential income it can provide for your business, outweighs the problems you are facing on the uphill side of your learning curve. Before long you'll look back and say this is not so difficult after all. Keep working at it!

Our resin clean-up was always fairly fresh. Once the hardener sets up it is a tough cookie to break down - that is why I said "chisel". We used epoxy to "weld" cracked metal (emergency care only). It can be machined, and is stronger than steel at lower temperatures. Of course Epoxy Resin is a bit different, but still a tough nut to crack. Try the purest Isopropyl Alcohol and keep soaking it for about 10-15 minutes. Again, depending on what kind of hardener is used will determine what will break it down. The hardest part is keeping it soaked since most of the effective solutions also evaporate fast. You may want to cover it with plastic (if it doesn't it thru it). I think M.E.K. works best on paint removal (for a solution w/o thickener) and has been my favorite. Unfortunately I think it is being taken off shelves. I purchased a couple cases frome HD for $1 per gallon. I first thought it was a dented can sale, but then I found out is was being removed from their shelves. I have not read or heard anything else, but I know I have not seen it re-stocked or stocked at Sears Hardware or my other local Hardware stores.

The product name is "Rez Away" and it looks like companies may have changed hands or ??? but anyway, Paradigm Labs (888) 933-4554 out of Pine Grove, PA - if they don't sell it, they can tell you a distributor for it. Another option would be to find out the exact product your customer was mixing and find a local boat repair shop that repairs hulls and give them a call. The product manufacturer may also be a good source for clean up info.

Tony, This company is a full time business, not a weekender - but they are newer in the area (don't know how long). They have large 1/2 and Full page ads in "Rearch" and other "Savings" magazines. They quoted DEFY to the customer (what they put on and how many coats???). Defy's claim and fame is based on synthetic materials that are not food for mold and mildew like oil based products (they don't say anything about synthetic oils). They did a good job of twisting things around. I tried to un-twist it for the customer but he was already sold on the product. It always amazes me what a piece of paper with written info on it can do. (If it's written, it must be true!) I explained in detail to the customer about oil based products and water based products and gave him a 2 page write-up. To be honest, I don't think he saw past the price and the fact that he was told that it is the BEST product on the market. Like I said, based on his follow-up questions, he didn't read everything I presented and he had way too may questions - indicating he did no homework on his own. I'll wait a couple of months and see if he'll let me take a look at the deck and ask him if I can also look at it in the spring. The DEFY sales packet includes a Lab report comparing water resistance and color retention capabilities against products like WeatherSeal, TWP, Super Deck, CWF UV, Wolman, Penofin, High Sierra and about 4 or 5 other low end products. They are ranked #1 in both categories. But Independent testing and reports can be twisted to look any way you want. If you had 3 different reports, I bet they woul all look different. I talked to the DEFY distributor and he supplies that company. They may get a much better contractor price than I was offered - I was not able to get a hint (I pushed pretty hard and my last negotiating resort was to ask for a per year quantity price). But even at that, like you said ($0.58 per sq ft), it can't produce long term quality results. Assuming that this is a legitimate company, the only thing I can guess is that they are making a major introductory product blitz for their company at cost or just a hair above. If they have deep pockets this could work long term (repeat customers and word of mouth). We'll see how many times we cross paths and what next year brings. I don't consider them major competition since the consumer base and area is large and has not been saturated.

What kinds of chemicals do you keep in your vehicle for testing stains for an estimate. My truck is a chemical warehouse and contains the following: Sodium Hypochlorite Simple Green Crete Clean Plus Krud Kutter White Scum Remover Goof Off (2) Sodium Metasillicate based cleaners (2) Potassium Hydroxide based cleaners (2) Sodium Hydroxide based cleaners The Works TSP Gutter Zap Ferrous Stain Remover White Ox Oxalic Acid Citric Acid Citralic Acid Detergent 600 Vana-Trol Glass De-Etch Muriatic Acid SuperKlean D'limonene Bacardi 151 Pain thinner Xylene Denatured Alcohol Lacquer thinner Jack Daniels Mineral Spirits Paint thinner SafeStrip MEK HD-80 EFC-38 Bix Tuff-Job Dad's DeckStrip A&L SuperStrip I do need a bigger truck and I do carry a decoder ring (data base) to help me remember what works well on what (my short term memory has always been a problem, but I never forget a face). I visit stores reqularly and get specials from time to time. At Home Depot I purchased 10 gallons of MEK for $1 per gallon along with 10 quarts of Xylene for $0.10 per quart (dented cans). At Sears last week I just purchased about 20 cans of Wolman's Deck and Fence Cleaner/Brightener for $1.97 per 2.25# container (normally priced at $14.95 each). I have all my neighbors, friends, workers and relatives calling me when they discover a deal. Nice to have spotters out there.

Poly rain gear would be most appropriate along with eye protection respirator and gloves. The EK Restoration Cleaner is fairly neutral in PH (5.5) so a hat, faceshield/goggles (avoid ones with tiny breather holes in top), long sleeve shirt and gloves are adequate. With the jells, respiratory protection is not necessary (as long as you keep your head out of the bucket). When spraying acid based liquids, I would highly recommend respiratory protection! We keep a bucket of clean water and rags near by for cool-off and skin rinsing purposes all the time. When working with acids (even while wearing eye protection) there is some minor risk of getting the chemical in your eyes, so havinging an eye rinse kit is highly recommended. The KEY for me is long term protection. A single exposure may or may not impact your health if unprotected (how lucky do you feel?), however, continued exposure will have negative health impacts if proper protection is not used. I would also recommend yearly health screening/check-ups. Remember: Safety First, and Make IT Last!

Tony, You explained it very well and I approve! :D

Chisel? My first choice would be to try Isopropyl Alcohol (make sure you pour some on the epoxy also) should work best as it breaks down the Epoxy Resin. We used Acetone in boat building. MEK should also work, but the problem you may have with solvent based cleaners is the actual clean up (as in removal from the concrete - depending on how pourus it is). Kind of like smearing paint around with a rag. The Norac Co. Inc. makes an emulsifier cleaner that works also they are in CA. (818) 334-2908. Good Luck!

If anyone is interested, Office Max has digital scales for about $30. It does a great job for mail as well as chemicals as it has a self analysis/calibration - the manual spring type are too prone to giving faulty readings as temperature effects the accuracy. As someone mentioned, when you are weighing chemicals, don't forget to measure your measuring cup (plastic is light, but glass could be heavy and throw off your results). One suggestion may be to measure out several 2, 4, 6 and 8 oz. packets of frequently used chemicals into freezer type bags. Kind of an emergency kit.

By the way, I tested close to 20 different products on paint oxidization and lime runs on brick and I am staying with the Prosoco products. I really like the jell products even though they have to be rolled on. With rolling, the product is actually very cost effective and provides the dwell time needed in some cases.

I received a non-renewal notice also. But you know what is interesting? The agent has not called or e-mailed for alternate options. You would think that if they were on the ball, a follow-up with an alternative would be offered. Sounds like they don't need my business. It's always amazing for me on how agents talk themselves right out of your account. I had an agent for 20 years and I called them for business insurance a couple of years ago and was told that it was too expensive for me so they wouldn't even get me a quote. Imagine that! I was speechless! How could someone be so bold as to determine for a customer what is too expensive and what is not? Needless to say that I hesitated, but after a brief cooling-down period I switched all of my policies to a different agent. Hey, call me mamma's boy, whiner (my emergency number is whine-1-1), spoiled, etc., but I like to be treated special. After all, I treat all my customers that way. Why shouldn't I expect the same in return?

Don't you just love it when the customer decides to do the house siding after you finished the deck just under it?

You will run across one of those from time to time and it can kill all your profit on that job (hopefully not more). The only thing I know (others may have more sophisticated methods) to do is to wait until the weeping has slowed/stopped but before the stains have dried and keep wiping off the streaks with a soft damp brush (a car brush on an extension pole). If you let it dry on the surface, some stains will become extremely (I mean extremely) difficult to remove. Do not keep rinsing with a hose or P/W as this will only prolong/increase your problem. Keep wiping with a damp brush, mop, rag, etc.

I recommend the use of the X-Jet (or equivalent). Keep the extension wand, a long 16ft extension pole for brushing the stubborn stains on facia boards and some 2nd story gutters. Purchase a spare close range nozzle ($11.95). Test the X-Jet and Close Range nozzle to check ratio results with your equipment. Learn to calculate ratios for your set-up (and ditch the proportioner kit supplied with the X-Jet). You'll never look back.

Who could forget the unforgettable harp lines of Paul Butterfield, or drool over the undrooling licks of Kim Wilson or hear the unheard of Norton Buffalo runs. The list goes on and on with the likes of sweet Annie Raines, James Cotton, Paul DeLay, Little Walter, Jimmy Reed, Big Walter Horton, Charlie Musselwhite, Rod Piazza, Sugar Blue, Junior Wells, Magic ****, Billy Branch, Jerry McCain, Gary Primich, Carey Bell, Sonny Boy Williams I & II. We'll the Blues Boys and I certainly can't. So we must bid fond adue (at least for 5-7 days) as our journey begins to Bluesfest. Lucky 14 is still packing but Peetie is ready to go - he has just finished tuning the reeds and testing the microphones (he's a light packer). Don't forget, Peetie likes pizza crust and hot pepperoni for his reward, Lucky 14 likes Hot Pepper cheese and I like a cold one after a hot number. I hope you can join us in the big city and celebrate with us. "Blues With a Feeling!"