Jump to content

Paul B.

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content count

    1,125

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Paul B.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Most of the viruses I had were tracking software for advertisers but who knows. I don't keep personal finances on the computers such as account numbers, etc. it's too risky if the computer is also used on the internet. I need to be careful about internet purchases.

    I just ran a Norton update the day before I got the Trojan horse - this one seems very persistant. Actually, the Norton software recognized it butr could not delete it or control it. I added Spy Sweeper and that recognized 32 other items the Norton software didn't flag. Spy sweeper was able to delete everything except the last one.

    I was talking to a service tech and he recommended against more than one software last year when I had a problem but I tend to disagree with him now. I think you need several. His reasoning was that some of the software clashed. I needed to find a better service tech.

    Paul,

    Thanks for the web site info. I'll check them out and add them to my list of resources.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I picked up a Trojan horse last week that was interesting.

    Actually, I had several that got by to my laptop. It attacked my Norton software and turned it off. It captured my home page and wouldn't let me erase the files that contained the culprits. It also created pop-ups which directed you to download software to eliminate the Trojan horse (so it claimed). My mamma didn't raise no fool - I wasn't about to go into the spiders web.

    I borrowed another software and loaded it. It cleaned off about 32 other contaminants that my existing software missed, but could not remove the last Trojan horse. I'm letting my software guru take a crack at it. I'm sure it's a piece of cake for him.

    I'd like to see someone create a software that would take the virus and mutate it, then send it back to the originator.

    I'm writing my congressman to enact tougher laws on criminals of this sort.

    Let them make license plates for 10-15 years. See how it feels to have a Trojan inserted in their software in prison.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Ron,

    Some places the driveway backs into 2 lane streets which eliminates parking on the street (...could always park in the neighbor's driveway).

    There are other customers that have extremely long driveways of several hundred feet. I have one customer who's driveway is over 1/4 mile long.

    We only park in the driveway when it's not practicle to park on the street.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    There should be no concern using bleach on stained surfaces to remove mold and mildew. Water will only remove the newest layer and will actually promote the regrowth. You most likely removed more mold & mildew with pressure than water.

    I had the similar situations with EFC-38 - even with low concentrations it would strip stain off adjacent cedar siding or even 1 year old stain (granted that older stains will strip much easier). If in doubt, we use percarb without TSP.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Mike,

    I had a customer that just wanted me to quote washing the 2nd story siding along with the 2nd and 1st story gutters. He said he could wash the lower level himself. I quoted $20 more to do the entire house. He didn't understand why, until I explained that we have to get the lower portion wet also as we do the upper. In essence, my estimate was for the whole house and I added $20 for the stupid request.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I would be a bit careful with a one for all rule when it comes to stains.

    For example, I would not apply a latex over a penetrating oil type finish like Ready Seal. Compatability from brand to brand is a large determiner of how long a finish will last when mixing and matching. If it's a solid, you should test to see if it's oil or water based (sodium hydroxide based stripper for oil based and solvent type stripper for water based stains.)

    Of course, as far as I'm concerned (call me old fashioned) but I consider all solid stain PAINT, regardless of what the manufacturer calls it. To me, stain is penetrating (I will accept penetrating with film forming as long as it's a semi).

  12. Posted · Report reply

    We are in a similar situation in the Cincinnati area (as Steve) with the majority of customers being unappreciative of high quality deck work. The quality is less important in majority of cases as the customer expects to spend that money every couple of years. The house cost and income seems irrelevant as I have presented estimates ranging from middle income to millionaires with similar unappreciative results. The exceptions are under 50% and they usually are a result of pre-screening and referrals. What I mean by pre-screening and referral is having another contractor provide you with information on customers personality and spending practices (inside information is most useful).

    I face companies every day that strip and stain for $0.50 per sq ft.

    The one day deck seems to be very popular around this area also.

    As I said, referrals are very helpful to get pricing up and finishing new decks helps to keep costs affordable to most customers. I work on overall averages for deck work so the high cost ones help out the lower end work. It helps when work is over abundant which provides ability to be selective. The other item that is helpful is when someone has had BAD experience with previous contractor.

    Pricing is relative to your business situation and IMHO some factors that contribute to business costs to consider are:

    - Are you an owner/operator with no employees or an owner/operator with employees.

    - Deck work is or isn't the only type of work your business offers

    - Does your business have enough work to stay busy?

    - Do you need more work to expand?

    - Is your business new and in need to establish customer base/recognition or are you already established?

    I can be very profitable on $0.50 per square foot for cleaning and brightening ONLY. One trip, low cost chemicals (less than $0.04 per sq ft).

    Stripping is another subject and the price is relative to the existing stain type (how hard is it to remove). The staining portion can also be more time consuming and costly depending on 1 person doing the work or more and how you apply (by hand, pump-up or sprayer, etc.).

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Here is the scientific explaination of pH:

    pH is a unit of measure which describes the degree of acidity or alkalinity of a solution. It is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. The term pH is derived from "p", the mathematical symbol of the negative logarithm, and "H", the chemical symbol of Hydrogen. The formal definition of pH is the negative logarithm of the Hydrogen ion activity.

    pH provides the needed quantitative information by expressing the degree of the activity of an acid or base in terms of hydrogen ion activity.

    The pH value of a substance is directly related to the ratio of the hydrogen ion [H+] and the hydroxyl ion [OH-] concentrations. If the H+ concentration is greater than OH-, the material is acidic; i.e., the pH value is less than 7. If the OH- concentration is greater than H+, the material is basic, with a pH value greater than 7. If equal amounts of H+ and OH- ions are present, the material is neutral, with a pH of 7. Acids and bases have free hydrogen and hydroxyl ions, respectively. Since the relationship between hydrogen ions and hydroxyl ions in a given solution is constant for a given set of conditions, either one can be determined by knowing the other. Thus, pH is a measurement of both acidity and alkalinity, even though by definition it is a selective measurement of hydrogen ion activity. Since pH is a logarithmic function, a change of one pH unit represents a ten-fold change in hydrogen ion concentration.

    As for combining bleach and butyl based detergent: You should not have any problems. I would however consider liquid pool shock vs. outdoor bleach as it is stronger in concentration and should be less expensive.

    Test your detergent first and see what sudsing you get. If you don't feel it's enough, you can add liquid dish detergent.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    We normally apply oxalix to a dry concrete surface because when you apply it to a wet surface it becomes diluted. On concrete, in most cases you need to most concentrated form to remove rust.

    In case of wood brightening, you have more latitude (meaning it will work in highly diluted form) it may take a little bit longer.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    You need to establish a minimum price for yourself. What is smallest paying job that you will leave the driveway for and still make money after you calculate your overhead and expenses and add profit. You've most likely spent at least a half hour to an hour and will spend another half to an hour getting to the job site and back. Once you add you cost of fuel and chemicals and $0.375 per mile for driving you'll find that your minimum will be over $100.

    250 LF x $0.35 = $87.50

    unless you expect more work, referrals, need the exposure or just need practice, you will most likely lose money at that price.

    Our minimum started at $135 and is now $150, but rarely do I take on a job at that cost unless it's for the elderly, other work is expected, doing other work nearby. My minimum is established on the initial call, so most of the time I don't even go out on an estimate and waste the customer's and my time.

    To give you an example:

    I had a call from a lady that had a 16 x 24 ft concrete pad in the back of her condo that she needed cleaned. I offered some other options to her but she accepted the $150 minimum over the phone. I fit the job in between 2 other jobs near by. The work was done in 15 minutes (plus prep and load time). I gave the OK to seal the surface with some left over V-Seal (less than 2 gallons) and the customer was very very happy. Door to door the job was less than 1 hour. The "EXTRA" paid off in the long run, as she has provided several referrals.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    "If you were starting your business tommorrow, knowing what you know about the p.w business, what would you do to generate business?"

    I would only knock on peoples doors that had given me business or referrals.

    But seriously...

    Some basics to generating business:

    - Eat, drink and sleep marketing and sales.

    - Learn about marketing, sales and advertising.

    - Use many marketing techniques and keep track of what works when.

    - Have a good budget for marketing and advertising.

    - Have many business cards, post cards and flyers printed and mail them out repeatedly to the same potentials.

    - Start slow and focus on high quality - this will lead to many referrals.

    - Understand your customers and what they value (for example, a lot of folks in my area place low value on house siding cleaning, which makes pricing and speedy work critical).

    - Always have business cards with you and hand them out to everyone and I mean everyone that comes close to you.

    - Network with other contractors that can send you referrals.

    - Get your name out there as many ways as you can (legally) - newspaper ads, street signs, vehicle lettering, flyers, business cards, home and garden shows, etc.

    - Know your product, services and competition.

    - Organize good presentation of your services.

    - Offer rewards for referrals.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Butyl based detergents work very well for cleaning house siding and will accept bleach/pool shock as long as you pre-mix only a 1 or MAYBE 2 day supply.

    You should always have a chemical MSDS sheet and keep it with you in your vehicle. It helps if to know the ingredients that may be dangerous and will also aid doctors in an ER if you get some in your eye. The level of danger can help you decide if you want to use the chemical or not; what personal protection needs to be worn (gloves, long sleeve shirt, respirator, goggles, hat, etc.).

    MSDS (both familiarization and having on job site) hard copies are required by law if you have any employees (be it temp., permanent or sub-contractors).

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Mail flyers and post cards - you are not really saving a lot (if any) by driving or walking around and placing them on peoples property.

    Sometimes flyers and post cards work, while other times they do not.

    My experience has been that with flyers and postcards you need to mail several times (3, 4 or as many as 6 to 7) before you get decent results. Sometimes they don't pay attention and pitch it, while other times their need is not there until later. At times they may not need the service but their friends and relatives will. The key is to have your name branded in their minds. I've gotten results 2-3 years after mailing flyers with business cards inserted. When mailing flyers, I place them in envelopes and place a business card inside. You can also mail the very thin magnetic business cards and stay at $0.37.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Prosoco's EK Restoration Cleaner will remove lime and calcium runs along with paint oxidization streaks. It's a jell that can be applied with a paint roller. Gets very good coverage as long as you follow directions (such as pre-wetting the brick and allowing enough dwell time, etc.).

    Please leave the turbo in the tool box on this job.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    The stripping action of EFC-38 comes from the TSP content.

    On stained surfaces, mold and mildew can be removed with a bleach/water (liquid pool shock or household chlorine) mix without stripping the finish.

    Brightener will not clean the wood surface so it's use alone will not get you the proper prep needed to apply a film forming stain. If you do not clean it first, you will trap dirt under the finish.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I'd venture to say that both Gutter Shock and Gutter Zap contain similar amounts of Sodium Hydroxide. The MSDS claims less than 1% for both.

    Beth,

    For gutters I prefer a degreasing type cleaners that is Butoxyethanol based vs. Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide based because the later ones tend to have more of a stripping action opposed to working on the stains. The key to me with Potassium or Sodium Hydroxide cleaners is to use it in the lowest possible concentration and this will minimize the stripping effect on paints.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Tony,

    I do not have the option of paying sales tax at the supplier only.

    I have to charge sales tax for all services that we do and products we use in Ohio under the pressure washing classification. At one time, you only had to charge sales tax on products and not services, but in recent years, more and more service type businesses are being made to collect sales tax on labor. What that means is if I do not get a tax exemption for the materials at the supplier, then I'm double paying the sales tax. Collecting sales tax has not been an issue with any customers to date and it's one more check that gets made out to the state of Ohio.

    I understand how cost prohibitive the Cabot 2-tone (primer and 2 top coats) can be and is the highest quality and priced service/product I offer. It's not for most people and I tell them so. Some take it as a financial challenge but there are customers that recognize that the initial higher cost of high quality will be offset in the long term. I only try to sell it to select customers that I pre-qualify during the sales process.

    Cabot primer claims 400-500 sq ft coverage on smooth wood and 150-250 on rough. The top coat coverage claims 150-250.

    200 is about the coverage we get with the primer on most PTW. However, the top coat gets excellent coverage on 1st coat and gets even better on the 2nd coat. We average 400-500 sq ft per gallon on the 1st coat.

    My point was that with the contractor discount the Cabot price is very close to most other products in the $20-$22 range (without extrapolating the coverage factor). The labor is what it is - you will not get an argument from me there.

    I am curious how many contractors ask for contractor pricing on their products (Home Depot and Lowes do not offer it).

×