tfhello
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Posts posted by tfhello
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Well, I have my last coat to put on tonight and, overall, it looks pretty good. Granted, it took me a couple weeks of working on it off and on, but it turned out pretty well.
I first cleaned all the dirt off of it and then I sanded most of (I missed a couple) the boards that were starting to splinter. I then put on the Cabot primer and that seemed to cover everything very well, but it was pretty messy to work with and clean up.
After the primer dried, I put on two coats of the solid stain with a roller. After every few boards, I back-brushed each one and tried to get into the cracks as best I could.
I just did the floor, but the color we chose seemed to match the railings pretty well.
Anyways, thanks for all the help and hopefully my hard work will last a few years or so. Now I can take the $600 or so I saved by doing it myself and hire a good chiropractor…ha!!
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Last weekend, my wife and I cleaned the deck with Wolman Deckbrite that worked pretty well.
Now I have a ton of peeling paint that I'm going to scrape and sand Friday. It rained last night (5/1) and I'm working on the deck Saturday. It's not supposed to rain here again until Tuesday (5/8).
I bought 2 gallons of the Cabot Problem Solver Primer and I had two questions about it.
1. Can I apply it with a roller? The directions say brush or spray, but is there a difference if I use a roller?
2. Do you need to use an oil based stain with an oil based primer or doesn't
it really matter.
Also, has anyone used the Cabot Problem Solver Wood stripper? I debated buying a gallon of it and seeing if it worked, but it cost $20. I figured I'd just stick to my guns and re-apply a solid.
Thanks again for the help.
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I should be working on this pain in the neck project within the next few weeks (if the weather cooperates).
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statement was a joke. If I'm going to all that trouble, I'm just going to rip the boards out and replace them with some sort of composite boards so I never have to worry about this stuff again.
I have to to try to do this myself. The company that quoted me the $1100, was going to clean, sand, and re-coat with a solid as well. I'm going to try to do the same thing.
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Well, it looks as though we don’t have the money in the budget to have our deck professionally done, so here’s my plan. I’m just going to re-do the floor and not the spindles.
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Give the deck a good cleaning.
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Wait a week and then lightly sand the peeling spots.
- Re-apply either Flood or Cabot’s solid stain. From several paint and deck professionals I have consulted, it seems as though I’m stuck with my deck being solidly stained forever.
I hope I’m making the right decision, but at this point, I’m kind in a bind in regard to the actions I can take.
Thank you all for the advice and if you have any more, please keep the ideas coming.
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Give the deck a good cleaning.
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OK, here’s the latest on my dilemma. If someone could please help me, I would appreciate it. I’m hoping to tackle this project in the next few weeks.
I took your advice and got several estimates on my project. A local company is going to charge me $1.75 a sq ft to lightly sand the bad spots on the floor only, strip the old stain, and apply another coat of solid stain. He is also going to give me a 5-year guarantee on the work and is using a solid Flood Stain. Since my deck is 600 sq ft, it’s going to cost me around $1100. Do you think this is a fair price?
OR, should I do it myself?
Would you go about it this way? Remember, my experience is very limited when it comes to staining decks.
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Chemically strip the old solid stain off the deck (it’s only 2 coats). What is the best product to use?
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Lightly sand the deck.
- Then, re-stain the deck with the best, non-solid stain I can buy. What is the best stain to use?
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Chemically strip the old solid stain off the deck (it’s only 2 coats). What is the best product to use?
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Thanks for the quick response.
*I used Olympic Maxium from Lowe’s
*It is pressure treated pine.
*I’m somewhat comfortable using dangerous chemicals, but would rather not. I also have a pressure washer.
*I was going to leave the spindles the cedar color. It was such a pain staining those the first time, I can’t imagine trying to take the stain off of them.
*I was thinking about giving the deck floor a darkish look so I could more easily cover the imperfections.
Thanks for the website tip…I will check it out.
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I made the mistake of putting a solid stain on my deck two years ago and needless to say, it is not wearing well (I wish I would have found this site back then).
Anyways, could I get some recommendations on the following?
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Best chemical and/or method of stripping the old solid stain off the floor of the deck.
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Best stain to put down on the floor of the deck after the solid is stripped
- Can I add color to the new stain (My spindles are Cedar color)?
Thanks in advance for the help.
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Best chemical and/or method of stripping the old solid stain off the floor of the deck.
Stripping solid stain in PA Three Years Later
in DIY'ers - Ask The Pro's
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Hi All,
Time has come again and now I really want to get the crappy solid stain off the floor of my deck.
Three years ago, I took the advice of this forum and put the Cabot's primer and solid stain on my deck. It held up ok, but now, because of signifcant peeling, I want to remove it all off the floor. I know the railings would be be too much of a pain to strip, and they still look decent. That said, I'll probably just re-solid stain the railings.
My question has to do with the stripping the solid stain off the floor.
Can someone please recommend a good chemical stripper or should I rent a belt sander and just strip it that way? After it is stripped-off, what is the best stain/sealer to put down on top?
I have very little vegetation around the deck, but it is rather large (probably 200+ sq feet)
Any advice would be great...thanks in advance.