Tim McCulla

I've got a customer that has specified the product to be used on his Ipe deck to be one of two, Wolman EHT (exotic hardwood treatment) or Messemer's Uv Protection Plus. I know that one is a penitrating oil (Messemer's) and one is more of a coating(EHT). Not looking to start that debate, I was just wondering if anyone had any real world experience in comparing these two products. What one would you pick? Thanks for your feedback. Tim McCulla Excel Maintenace

Ken & Randy, thanks for your insight. Jim I will call you. Anybody else? I'm going to see them tomorrow. thanks

Nothing? Diamond Jim? Rod? Big Jim? Anybody? Help - I have an appointment on Saturday to discuss EHT or Messemer's!! Thanks Again, Tim

hey Gary, as my father-in-law always says "opinions are like a** holes - everybody has one". Mine is, if I'm taking the time to change out a whip do I want to do it with one that is from a blown hose and have it blow sooner? or would I want to use a quality, new whip that will last the entire season. I'm going with quality and the time saved of not dealing with the hose shop.

We have done several, using two different products. The first was a product I had seen in 'cleaner times'. It was a 'parifin type' product - went on milky white and dried absolutly clear (no added color or sheen). It had no effect on the apperance and the water beaded for only a few months. when I cleaned it almost a year to the day it was if nothing was ever on it - no beading and soiling/mold was apparent. Second, we used 'composite deck protectors' by Rock-Industries. This product is clear but leaves a sheen - the composite had an obvious return of color, like it was wet. This was put on the same deck we put the other product and immediatly "Mr. Complainerpants" (my customer) loved it over the other product. This was just put on in July - I've not been back to see it, but I have not heard from "Mr. Complainerpants" - so I'm thinking it has not failed and is still doing its job. I will give him a call soon. BTW, anybody that has been around a bit may know Charlie Wolfson (he used to work at Wolman). He works at the Rock -Industries - I talked to him about the product, he is a very good resource. Happy 'Sealing". Ooops! I mean 'Protecting' tim McCulla

I feel good about all the things said and would agree with just about everything I've read. I am in most agreement of the following: 1) Learn from history of other failed/ failing organizations. For example, don't do things to discourage members from renewing membership or put people in power of the organization that have a conflict of interest. 2) Follow a model. The IWCA is a well run organization that is a great role model. Don't reinvent the wheel -K.I.S.S.! I look forward to being at Tom's this fall and meeting with like minded tradesmen/tradeswomen. Tim McCulla

All good suggestions. Be carfull with the CC 550 (crystal clear). READ READ READ the instructions. you can really do some damage, but if used properly it is a great product. Also, I was thinking that if the bank spends the money for you to power wash - do you think they also have a contract with a window cleaner? I bet they do - maybe try to clean just before his visit.

what a disapointment. I went out to Ohio two times last year, bought and distributed doorhangers, yard signs, vehicle signs. I've done five shudder jobs, booked my first entire home. Did a three day home show at the Mall advertising Restora. Also, I've been advertising "restora" in my print ad for the last few months in lue of deck restoration. The real kicker is I have been lazy about getting my cooperative advertising money - I wonder if they will pay that. Oh well, live and learn. Though, I'm not to sure what I've learned - Iwas teaming up with an established Company with what I thought was a quality product to fill a huge customer need. I'm not sure what I should have done different. I feel even worse for Tom Vogel, He has spent more time and money than anybody I know promoting this product.

I've Just completed my first epoxy application (my own two car garage). It was a learning experience. I'm glad it was mine - would have felt bad charging for the job. When I was done I found a few small defects that I would avoid with my next job. Like, broadcasting flakes more evenly (the end of the bays look much more even then the start - more of a feel thing), i would have used two thin coats rather than one liberal one and I would have used the sand arrogate toped with a clear instead of the flakes.

It is really hard to say what went wrong - we are all only guessing. IMHO, yes chemicals would work less effective at 50 degrees (I'm assuming you are talking about the air temp - if you did it in the morning that metal roof could have been colder than that or hotter in the afternoon). Also, before you look into the surfactant and its effectivness - did you think your bleach could have gassed off/ not been that strong? How old was it? did you store it in the sun? Was it uncovered for any amount of time? did it freeze? If what you were cleaning did not "melt off' it could have been very much alive (the bleach did not kill it), in which case the best surfactant in the world may not help.

Clam Digger Window Cleaner Resident Assistant Stock Brooker Power washer Realtor

Hey ken, I'm not sure what my production rate is - I've been consentrating on doing the best possible job I can and not looking at the clock. I will tell you that our company does alot of painting and even with taking my time it is much faster than painting. The airless on the entire house is the way to go (with back brushing) but the shudders are a cut brush and Whizzy (small mini roller). Back brushing is important to get it into the faux grain lines To the guy that does not want to take the ladder off the truck. This is NOT the work for you. IMO you need to have the ladder off for both surface prep. and application. I have been scrubbing all the shudders (if I get any houses I will at the very least brush out the eves, traffic areas and shrub areas) to make sure I remove every bit of oxidation - it may be overkill but I don't want it to be lack of effort on my part to be the reason I didn't get the house next door. Instead of talking about it hear the best thing to do would be to use that nice kit they sent and experiment - you will answer your own application questions. Good luck.

Just wanted to add a thumbs up on the product. Good coverage, easy to apply/cleanup, VERY forgiving. MOST important is the prep - do that correct and everything else falls into place. The hardest part of the entire gig is actually getting the work. I've changed my focus to getting shudder jobs vs. the entire home. Though I'm not ripping the cover off the ball, at least I'm getting some hits.

In July we bought a new home. I was able to split our old home into a small apartment and an office for the business. It is great to leave work for the day. Tim McCulla

Rodney, That sounds like it would not work. In my experience you are going to do your best getting RS off before it dries.

I tried using a service at one point, it lasted for about four months and was a bad experience. It was a company in a remote city (Baltimore?), that did not know my area, my business, had no consistancy in the way they answered(they even had trouble saying the greeting) and the most agrivating, not taking the proper information: name, address, reason for call. Also, you may not realize the amount of calls you get that are not business related like friends, family, solicitations,....etc, but you will when they start costing You $each time you get one. If I was going to do it again I would: 1) get some other businesses in your area that use the service, see if they are satisfied and then call them a few times at different times of the day to see if they do a good job of being proffesional and consistant. 2) Go with a small local company. They will know the area (road and common family names) so they can get accurate information. Also, they will have fewer different people answering the phone. I like the idea of sharing a secretary - that could be something to look into. Another idea could be to have call forwarded to a cell phone. either you could take calls in the field or have someone else answer the calls. For example, my brother had a similar situation a few years ago - He hired a stay at home mom that answered his calls all day 9-5 and worked about 10 hours a week (flexable time). It was win - win until they outgrew the arrangement.

I started part time (seasonal) in 89' @ the rip age of 21. Went full time three years later.

Hey Mel, how do you like those e-tec evenrudes? I've heard good things about them but am leary because I got screwed on a Ficht. With a morning like that who needs to catch anything? I love that time of day!

Important tools: Ladder with Stand offs: put the standoffs on the roof above the gutter you are working on. This will allow you to work safer and not do damage to the gutter. Gutter Getter: A spoon like tool that treads onto a pole. 6' pole: this is the longest I feel comfortable using. It allows me to get a side in two sets. If I can walk the roof this allows me to keep from bending over all the time.

Correction to my post regarding "Bristol Bay" rain gear. That is the Line - the commercial fishing grade. The manufacturer is "Viking". Two things to add 1) the bibs have a great plastic release clip that makes them easy to get on and off (especially when you have to take a leak in the trailer or box truck). The Heely Hanson has a metal hook that is hard to get out so you end up leaving it attached and pretty soon the elastic is streached on the suspenders. 2) The jacket has an awsome neoprean arm cuff feature - it closes tight on your wrist so that if you have arm raised (as we often do when washing) the water can not run down. No more arms soaked to the armpit and beyond. I think the only way to stay dryer than using this rain gear is to stay in the truck and let the help do the work!LOL

I live near the coast and I get my gear from my local bait shop - they cary Helly Hanson, Brystol Bay and Grundon's. I'm very partial to Brystol Bay - I've had my current pair for two years and i'm just starting to show wear in the outer right knee of the double knee bibs (I may repair it with an inertube patch but experience tells me that when they wear in one place it won't be long before other holes pop up). I think I'll pass them down to a helper and get a new pair but after striper season so I don't look like afresh egg with shinny new bibs. Remember, they all have different grades (thickness and # of welds) of material, it is well worth your investment to go with the best quality they offer. I've been known in the past to blow out the crotch in those cheap yellow ones you get at the depot in a single use. On a related topic, I love the "Viking" brand boots - they feel like real shoes, the sole has awsome grip on roofs and just the right amount of insulation. Believe me - your wheels will thank you at the end of the day if you get them.

Hey Jeff, it would be your decision to take the write off (how much would you be able to take). But, I look at it like "I have to deal with this equipment and Chems at my garage, the office is in my house and I'm intitled to write it off - you bet I pay myself rent!" I would get a new CPA if he is afraid of taking an entitled deduction.

I bought the Win Spray system this summer. I did have issues with the equipment - it was missing O- Rings for the filters, Plumbing was hand tight ( I had to remove all the fittings, valves, and and gauges to make it not leak). The company never made good (or even returned any of my six calls to the service) on the the 3.5 inch o-rings, it is a good thing Racor filters use the same o-ring. With that said, DI water to clean glass is awsome. Especially, the small true devided light windows that seem to becoming standard on the new high end homes. I wish I could use it for the inside. The quality is right there with squegeed glass, in fact I think it is better when you take into account the frames being cleaner. The cost of the water (filters) and the quality of this entry level equipment does limit how much we use it. I plan to look into a better system.

1) clammer in Barnegat Bay from really young through first year in college. 2) cleaned windows in summer, Sided & roofed houses in winter during college. 3) Resident Assistant in college housing for 7 semesters. By far this was the easiest gig with the best side benifets (girls). 4) Stock brooker for two years in NYC. I hated "smiling and dialing". 5) power washing for my 13th season, good thing I'm not superstitius (where did I put that rabit foot anyway).

Hey Beth, sorry to post this on your board but I can't post it on the PWNA board. That is the entire problem. For some reason or another my password on the PWNA board is not saved on loging in and I need to get it emailed to me. Fine, I've done that at least six times over the last two months with no response. Does the PWNA pay for a company to service this board or is it a volanteer that does this? I've become a "read only person" - not by choice.