ronnie 14 Report post Posted January 4, 2004 does anyone know of a book or tape on wood restoration with lots of illustrations. ronnie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Tim Smith 14 Report post Posted January 6, 2004 Ronnie You have a book right here in this board - Go to the Search Engine and read away. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 ron p 500 Report post Posted January 7, 2004 Wood Restoration: Raw wood left out in the weather will cause the wood to dry out,check[crack],rot,decay,get bug eaten,ect... Wood is made up of long tube's and glue[laglin, it's a natual glucose that hold's the tube's together. These tube's were used to transfer water and nuet. in the living tree.] Slow growing tree's have tighter tube's[oak] then fast growing tree's[pine]. The bigger the tube the less dense the wood. Less dense mean's it can break down faster. When it come's to restoring wood in our line of work, it simply mean's to remove any previous coating's of sealer. Remove the dead tube's and get down to a new layer of undestroyed tube's that are still together with good langlin. Then apply a sealer to protect that freash new layer. Some wood is just to far gone to do this and a good contractor will be able to tell his customer about the limit's of his/her's work. Now if you want to learn about how to remove something it's best to know how it was built. In other word's "get to know your diffrent kind's of sealer's used in your area. The more you know about what they are made from the better chance you can find what would be best to remove them. Sometime's a job might need a spoon and sometime's a shovel[if you get what i mean]. Lucky for you you found this site and you have a lot of info on a sod. hyd based sealer remover[HD80]. hd80 PROPERLY USED WILL MAKE EVERYTHING IVE SAID ABOVE AN OPTION TO LEARN BECAUSE THEY HAVE ALLREADY DONE ALL THIS HOMEWORK FOR YOU. So, now youve found your stripper. CONGRAT"S You've read all about it. You know how to safe use it. You follow all safety rule's and your ready to get started. remember this" PRESSURE IS WEAR" the more the pressure the more you wear the surface. You were hired to restore the surface, not add 5 year's of wear in 1 day. This mean's "WHEN EVER YOU ARE HIRED TO WASH ANY SURFACE, YOU USE THE LEAST AMOUNT OF PRESSURE TO GET THE JOB DONE" PRESSURE=WEAR=DESTRUCTION You need to wash the surface in a timely manner but not destroy it. Their are only 3 way's to reg pressure[in my book] TIP SIZE ,DISTANCE FROM TIP TO SURFACE,USE OF A DUEL LANCE. i use all three every time i work with wood. Now you have a chem stripper,the understanding of pressure, and a goal of removing the old sealer[or whatever]and removeing the dead wood layer to get to the good clean fresh wood. Congrat's agin[unless you fell asleep] Now you've applied your HD80 let it dwell and started washing. You think your doing OK but the wood is dark. That's OK BECAUSE THE SOD HYD IN the stripper will do that. To fix this you will need a nuet. to bring the PH level in the wood back to a nuet level. {oxalic acid or citric acid will do just fine] Now you've stripped,nuet and returned after 3 day's of sunshine. OH MY the whole deck look's like it grew hair! You used too much pressure. Now you have to remove all those fuzzie's. It's called "de-furring". Their are a number of way's to do this. Sanding,brushing,ect....[do a search on this to get all the diffrent way's] As your sanding you find that some of the fastener head's are sticking up. Now you have to re-set them. Congrat's again your better then 1/2 done. Now go back to your rig and get the all the tool's and supplie's you will need to apply your sealer. Good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
does anyone know of a book or tape on wood restoration with lots of illustrations. ronnie
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