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sflasealcoatinginc

South Florida Seal Coating Tinted Sealer

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This is Our private labeled tinted sealer. Will post more pics with diff colors later....these are 15 year old pavers....clear seal did not work....to much color gone out of the brick... solution.....a Clear / Tint clear sealer with Red pigment NOT A STAIN. You can still see the natural paver colors, just puts the red color back into the brick. Browns and Charcoal pics coming soon....border bricks were sealed with clear....so the border stands out. You can Pm me for pricing.

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This is Our private labeled tinted sealer. Will post more pics with diff colors later....these are 15 year old pavers....clear seal did not work....to much color gone out of the brick... solution.....a Clear / Tint clear sealer with Red pigment NOT A STAIN. You can still see the natural paver colors, just puts the red color back into the brick. Browns and Charcoal pics coming soon....border bricks were sealed with clear....so the border stands out. You can Pm me for pricing.

It not a stain in what respect? It don't penetrate like a stain as the solids too high or the pigment is low to where it pretty much translucent...or?

Some manu that use the term tinted sealer are refering to basically a slight coloring of usually a waterborne acrylic and it called stain base before coloring it. The base will dictate how much but 2% pigment about right as the binder needs to be able to tie it all together for integrity and for adhesion of subsequent coatings.

Color amounts in wood stains go higher..

This product acrylic solventborne or waterborne?

..don't see it for sale on yer site..

..btw, could be a false positive but my avg says you got virus on yer site..

ps- I would like to see a closeup pic of a scratch test on this product if that could be arranged.

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It is Not waterbased. Its An Acrylic clear 30% solids paver sealer with Coloring added to it. It still acts as any clear sealer would it just has color. The % of color in the clear is undisclosed. It took me a long while and ruined my fair share of bricks and some donated patios getting the blend right its much more than 2% though :) The goal is to add color to the brick without making them look PAINTED or Stained. If you look at the pictures and did not see what they looked like before, you would think they were that color and have clear sealer. And my site is 4 years old and needs to be highly updated. I havnt touched it since 2004.

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In considering that ya got about twice as much binder in that solvent (seen the can btw and so figured as much) than a waterborne ya probably can go upto like 10%. I still wouldn't start much beyond 2-3% if'n I want to see through it. Those amounts can let ya do multiple layers of various colors and end result is always a stained look.

ps- also... could be stressed that powdered dye pigments normally disolved in acetone are not stable enough to uv on exterior work... please clarify if ya can on which pigments yer using..

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I guess that is one way of going about it..is it economical enough for you going route of having your pigment premixed in a binder/stain then adding it to your clear?

Here's how I'de go about doing such:

I'de just use straight pigment in 100% acrylic polymer or pigment in gycol-waterbase...aka-Universal or Cal Tint type pigment from Ace or Kelly Moore work pretty good and very cost effective.

Here is an online source that comes up quikly on google: Resurface Solutions - Cal-Tint Colorants

I approach mixing or making color samples same as a artist might do a fine art canvas painting.

First I pick and make a small palette of colors with both the color and shade/tint of my canvas/surface in mind. If the canvas don't allow for where I want to go then I change it.(usually to white for to get brightness and a large contrast/difference between colors)

Before ever touching the actual work surface I either get a scrap piece of it or duplicate it by way of using my palette. After doing such I can then procede with mixing measured amounts of color to my blank palette areas and then applying them to the test canvas to get to a color. Thinning is done in cups of water. After coming to initial color ratios and thinning amounts a coating of clear laqcuer, etc. over tests will show where you'll be when the pigment is used in a larger solventborne sealer batch.

Having a portable color wheel computer can be handy. An artists mixing/color theory book from a crafts or art store is starting point though.

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Well i can premix a 5 gallon of sealer with pigment for a lower price than anyone sells clear sealer for....which is VERY economical....And on pavers only 3 colors will work..... theres no need for a pallet.. when adding color back to pavers you are not trying to match any specific color. Pavers are mixed in grey colors and white colors. All pavers depending on what color combination they include are made with 3 different colors. Red, Charcoal, or malt as a base. These are the only colors that are needed. Again... you are not PAINTING the brick.... you are simply applying a CLEAR sealer to pavers as you would any paver job. This clear paver sealer either has a hint of red/black/or malt color with the consistancy of say crystal light. I have saved many driveways by using this product, and saved many thousands of dollars people were goign to spend to replace their old pavers with new ones. I have not had one unsatisfied customer yet. :)

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Sorry to hijack - but Kevin - your wood page is a mess!

Yea it is...in firefox, thanx!... is also in Ie too but that's besides the point,lol..

was there something else?

Pics I got up stink... Plan to only have finished work up rather than before/after on the mouseovers..

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