Trailer size Vs. tank capacity

[southernprowash 14]

Ok so i have my Inc. set up and have been doing a lot of homework on a daily basis. really behind from where I wanted to be but i hope its not to late in the season to make money. I'm only planning on doing residential on the weekend keeping my full-time job until i have a good clientele basis built up to go full time.

One thing i keep going back and fourth on is what size trailer to get a 6X12 or a 7X12(enclosed)?

Obviously I prefer the larger size for its room but the smaller one is cheaper.

The problem with the 6x12 one is that i will only be able to carry a 225g. leg tank, however with the 7x12 i can go with a 325g. leg tank.

Is the extra 100gallons that important starting out or should i just go with the smaller trailer and smaller tank to save on the front end?

I will be installing a 4.7GPM @3500PSI Landa PGDC5 just behind the leg tank over the axles of course.

Edited May 31, 2010 by southernprowash

[Jim Gamble 20]

As far as the tank, the bigger trailer would be just over 65 minutes of reserve water. This would be an issue if you need to go to multiple small jobs without any issues about filling up and or if the water supply is of low volume and pressure. If water is ALWAYS going to be available for your line of pressure washing, then it does not make any difference.

The one thing you should always consider is the axles.

If you have to small of GVW of axles, then you can bow them and cause serious tire wear issues on your trailer.

Another issue is if you come close to the max weight of the trailer, you hit a good size pot hole at 50+ mph, you could snap the wheel off, that is, crack / sever the axle right behind the wheel. I have seen it more than once. The trailer was at 92% capacity and the guy hit the pot hole and the wheel, still bolted to the hub with brake drum, broke away from the trailer, brake and all.

The reason is a trailer is rated in a gentle downward motion, not a side impack. Also hitting something at 50+ mph has allot of impact force behind it.

ALWAY check you GVW and the max weight to be installed on the trailer at any giving time. Weigh the water at just over 8.25 lbs for ever gallon of water. Get how much diesel, gasoline will be on the trailer. Find out the weight of the trailer from the manufacture.

Add those things up.....

Take 80% of the rated gross vehicle rate, take that number, subtract the weight of the trailer, equipment and the max capacity of all of the liquids. As long as you are under the GVW by 20%, you will have a trailer that will be good to you and will last a life time.

[southernprowash 14]

Jim,

Thanks for the reply. The info you provided is invaluable and it has helped make up my mind to go ahead and spend the extra money now for the trailer with the better axle to load ratio.

The horror stories of hearing of others losing there axles after hitting a pot hole was all i needed to reasure me that i was leaning the right way.

7x12 tandem here I come with Visa in hand.

Thanks

Edited May 31, 2010 by southernprowash

[zhamilton89 14]

Agreeing with Jim here, I see far too many people with overloaded trailers. If you can get anything higher than the 3500# each axles on that 7x14 do it, but most of them out there are the 3500# each rating.

In the past my problems have not been from the main equipment weight, but all the trimmings that find their way into an enclosed trailer, the spare hoses, tools and buckets really add up.

Be safe!

[Guy B 70]

If you're just going Residential, you don't really need anything over 225 gals. Just carry 75 or 100 gals in the tank as a buffer, in case of low homeowner water volume. With a 4.7 gpm machine you should have no problem keeping up.

[southernprowash 14]

Thanks for the advice Guy, Maybe I can ride with you sometime to see how the pros do it.

[southernprowash 14]

The axles are 3500each so i think i should be ok. I welcome and thank you for the input Zach