Float tanks & "trailer" layout

[PLD 14]

about $750 around here for a standard 5x10 open utility trailer as well. I'm curious, why such a large water tank? what gpm machine are you buying? The Reason I ask is if you plan to use it as a float tank, and you only plan to run a machine with 6gpm or less, you can get away with a much smaller tank, which will save a lot in weight, time filling and draining, and room on the trialer.

200 g. isn't going to really be enough to act as a good stand alone water supply. I would either thank about a smaller "back up float tank", or a larger "supply tank", on a bigger trailer. I use a 25g drum equiped with a hudson float valve to back up my 5.6 gpm machine, and I haven't had an occasion yet where it wasn't suffiecent in keeping up with a lower flow spigot.

If you're thinking you have deja vu, don't fear. I pulled this from elsewhere so an not to hijack the thread.

That said, I am running around town doing 99% resi's with a skid, a tandem axle trailer, and a 275 tote tank. Except for occasions when water volume is abysmal, I fill and dump the tank at each job. Wasted time, wasted water. I never thought twice about a float tank with my 4gpm (or actually until I found TGS). Since then, I have feared running dry and am very aware when tank water levels are neutral-> negative and it's more often that I would have anticipated. I know this is a hard one to answer from afar, but do you guys think I would be happy dropping the 275 and just going with a 30 gal float tank?

Also, this idea is not just to ditch the bigger tank. I'm considering a trailer change, and no big tank plays into some of them. If a small tank is a no-go, so are some of the options. Here's what I am considering. Any thoughts you may have are welcomed.

Option 1: Stay on my 6x14 open tandem, keep 275gal.

Pro: No cost.

Con: Would like enclosed trailer/ trailer out of my garage.

Other: Need to move equip/tank to eliminate neg hitch weight when full

Option 2: Stay on my 6x14 open tandem, drop 275gal for 30 gal.

Pro: No cost. More room for "stuff"

Con: Would like enclosed trailer/ trailer out of my garage. Trailer looks less professional with alot of "white space"

Other: Need to move equip/tank to eliminate neg hitch weight when full

Option 3: Drop the 275, use my 30 gal tank as a float, and put the whole thing in a 5x8 enclosed single axle.

Pro: Advertising space, hide mess from customers. Cheap. Small trailer works better in tight cluster/planned neighborhoods. Trailer moves out of garage, and 6x14 is available for 2nd trailer which may be needed this summer if plans work out.

Con: Lower max load, no ability to haul water in a pinch. Trailer requires mods for burner

Other: Space planning is difficult as my skid controls and fuel inlets are on opposing sides of a 42"x42" skid

Option 3: Keep the 275 and put the whole thing in a 6x10 enclosed tandem axle.

Pro: Advertising space, hide mess from customers. 6x14 is available for 2nd trailer which may be needed this summer if plans work out.

Con: Expensive. Loses 24sq.ft. of floor space. Trailer requires mods for burner

Other: Space planning is difficult as my skid controls and fuel inlets are on opposing sides of a 42"x42" skid

Option 4: Drop the trailer entirely and mount the skid and the 30 gal float in the bed of my work truck.

Pro: Very low cost, very manuverable in tight spaces, no lost time hitching/unhitching. Can tow 525 gal on a trailer if needed. Functionally, I like this option best.

Con: Work truck (white fleet) is not ugly, but does show some age. Truck really needs paint, rhino liner, and lettering to go standalone. Looks fine with trailer as profesional trailer detracts from minor flaws on work truck, but I will not run quotes in it. $ for professional look rehab >= $ trailer.

Con 2: Dead truck = downtime. Equipment is not protected (back in the garage)

Other: Concerned that I may be confused with a fly-by-nighter or a roll around in the back of a pickup..

[Don Phelps 85]

It's obviously your call regardless, but I would consider a 30 or less to save weight/space with whatever setup you go with based on the size of the machine.

[STAN 14]

Can you put a box on your truck or make it a flatbed with removable sides. Then pull extra water when needed.

Bruce

[Larry B 55]

Yep sounds like you have them covered. The only other thing I can think of is to go to a box truck. The con is it is more $$ upfront. Other than that I would run the 30 float with my 275, and use ball valves to switch between the 2 needed.

[Motor City 14]

Where would you guys buy a decent 30 gallon float tank?

[Don Phelps 85]

We get ours at Tractor Supply then drill them to install a Hudson float valve.

[PLD 14]

I got mine at Northern.

No one has any thoughts on the no-trailer pickup washing machine?

[dave 14]

phillip i went through what your contemplating a little while ago i have a 16 ft tandem open trailer they can be a pita in some areas i went with a small float tank and a 200 gallon holding tank which i use for reclaimed recycled water on sensitive jobs, or as a large float when water pressure is low. i have a ball valve to switch between tanks. i also have a backup cold water portable machine that i take in my pickup without the trailer on jobs that the trailer would struggle may not be as professional but gets the job done hope this helps.

[jnoden 15]

I used a 4gpm for the last two years and never needed a buffer tank. This year i have a 5.5gpm and I still dont have a tank. I will use two hoses and a y connector if necessary but most all residences put out atleast 5gpm. I always check the flow during the estimate and if it is questionable I will time how long it takes to fill a 5 gal bucket.

[Advanced P and GC Inc. 14]

PLDOOLITTLE,

I am for OPTION # 4, mount it all in a truck, or better yet a service body truck, yes there is a little cost in having a pro looking truck, but I find it well compensated by the reduced operating costs, gas, brakes, etc of pulling trailers, especially is crews will be driving the rig, it is safer = less liability.

Buy a new truck, the payment is not that much considering an operating business,

the only downside is if you cant keep the truck buzy most of the time, this design would not work well for a part timer as the truck is somewhat useless for anything but PWing.

Of course consider your market, do you need to cary your own supply of water alot? 3%, 20, 40, 60, or 95% of the time?? You could alwayse put a tank on the trailer if needed, especially if you really dont need it much.

I use this setup all the time, on a few trucks, love it, but do 98% residential.

Matt

[PLD 14]

Matt,

Like you I am 98% residential, and carry water about 1% of the time. I like what you have done, it is very similar to what I was thinking. Can you send me some more pics of your truck? Also, is it difficult to drop a bed and add a work body? Its the bed that looks bad, the cab looks good and the drivetrain is solid.

Philip

[PLD 14]

phillip i went through what your contemplating a little while ago i have a 16 ft tandem open trailer they can be a pita in some areas i went with a small float tank and a 200 gallon holding tank which i use for reclaimed recycled water on sensitive jobs, or as a large float when water pressure is low. i have a ball valve to switch between tanks. i also have a backup cold water portable machine that i take in my pickup without the trailer on jobs that the trailer would struggle may not be as professional but gets the job done hope this helps.

I haven't every really struggled, but I do a number of senior/cluster planned communities and my truck/trailer often blocks three driveways (incl the customers)