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Ipe and Balau furniture staining

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Beth n Rod

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Sorry' date=' but I have to make a correction here.

"Darkness" of the stain has no more protection factor than a lighter stain.

Opacity is what constitutes protection. This is determined by the pigment level or solid content.

Opacity in terms of how much light can pass through. Toners offer the least opacity. Semi transparent has higher opacity(translucent:meaning light will pass, falls into this category), then there is semi solid which has even more. Solid color stains (looks like paint and you cannot see the wood beneath it) are totally opaque. This means no light can pass through it, so it offers the best protection from UV light which is what causes wood to turn grey, crack and degrade.

To answer the initial question of this thread, there will be back brushing or wiping necessary with the products you have listed.

My advice to your question is going to be redirected towards maintenance. Applying these products is easy enough, the problems start when it comes time to do it again. How hard is is going to be to clean? Will it color shift (change color either lighter or darker as it ages)? This is an issue because future applications may not match what remains on the wood.

This will require the need to remove the product with a stripping chemical. For a diy'er it may be more than you are willing to take on based upon the question you posed regarding difficulty.

My suggestion is to use an oil based product like Armstrong which is easy to maintain and cleans up easily and is easier to maintain on teak which will require annual service.

Rod!~[/quote']

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