MMI Enterprises

Dang Scott I fear yer onto somethin there... if we can simply dig up example of a body of water explosively releasing that cold stuff similar to one of them deadly Co2 lakes we could show people how to flash freeze a mammoth munchin on buttercups!! :)

Adrian, You mention roof/wood combo... I would say roofs or any 2 to 3 story work tends to demand the next step up in pump size if one doesn't want to be standing around all day trying to apply chems or do rinse procedures. The increased head pressure being up on roof or even on two story decks and pegola have made me a firm believer in either the mid sized gpm air diaphragm pumps or DSing to get the chems out. There are pro's and con's to almost every setup when trying to cover many bases at once. For instance imagine a tiny air Wilden sitting on a five gallon container with no batteries to recharge. Advantages are that you use no cart and battery but rather you carry the fiver to where you need it with a roll of garden hose on your shoulder and wand in hand or ya can just opt to leave it all on board by using longer hose... Con of course is that ya have to have a compressor on board and either hook up to home power or suitable truck inverter. If ya ask me I rather have a compressor than a battery and cart. Now imagine this expansion idea..add my DIY HVLP sprayer (pepsi canister/aerosol sprayer) to a hurricane truck brush setup or shane/phelps wand setup and we find ourself woodies with unmatched power and flexability to do raised decking or roofs or hood foaming or deco concrete staining, or whatever by either spray or brush method. Been planning to do it and have everything needed already sitting around here. I just have to tweak my canister setup a tad, rid myself of the hvlp gun and second airline which is totally unneeded in this field of staining wood, and commit to having the compressor in bed of truck all the time. :)

Russ, Might want to consider Comodo as the firewall. Is right up there in terms of strength and usability for both novice and experts alike that like to make customized rules or that only utilize layered protection schemes. You'll never need more than the free version if mixing it with other great freebies..

let me guess... pops3/webased/avast/ssl issue/checking- sending via outlook or oe? lol :)

Hi Rich yea old timer!.. I use the 3/8 pvc on many a creation as well but do you like the combo of the 2gpm and 3/8 for staining as well as the chem application? Myself I tend to like the 3/8 for stain and garden size for chems. (if not DSing that is :) )

Joe, Now knowing your intended uses and what your goals are in wood care I can say "trust me, this is not the setup you want!!". pm me.. :)

Yea but are you using same pump as sold on this TSC/COUNTYLINE UNIT?? Little Buddy, If you got $400 to spend and already have some of the stuff such as wanding or battery you can do better than the TSC setup. I suggest getting the bigger Delavan pump like a 3.6 gpm and build off of it's potential. ps- nevermind tnroof.. I see you said yer using a 2gpm delevan

Yea that cart way better than that flimsy little fake trailer they offer to sell the pump/tank already mounted to...

Omg!!

Little Buddy, I suggest going with a fatter garden hose diameter hoses such as talked about by the roof cleaner folk. Think one name is like Mean Green hose or the like and they chem resistant. Think I got my last suitable hose at costco or an rv supply place. Although the pump may not handle for long the strong chlorine mixes used in that specialty roof cleaning field you'll still see benefits at the end of the hose for general use. Key is that you still stick with suitable tipping for the pump being used. Note that it looks like Jim is using a standard pressure wand and gun with the interchangeable tips. That's what I do anyways with my various pump setups. :) ps - for carts like that check Harbor Freight or OSH... also if any of you do decide to stick with small diameter hose you could just use the orange air hosing they have at Harbor Freight which is already threaded. Way better than using any sort of clamps.

Haha ..I seen that pic and first thought was that is way more than $300 worth of spray equip but then remembered seeing the tank and pump part at TSC store last month out in the sticks. Great little setup to put on a cart or mount on truck for either wood or crete. Only reason I don't take advantage of such is that I have the whole DSing method diealed in with proper tipping, concentrations, method (i.e- many don't know how to deal with possible overspray issues while DSing and fear it).

True true Rick, There is big difference between killing stuff and eating stuff off like the roof folk do so might be worth an ounce of prevention to go for a kill even if ya can't see anything growing. Remember the acidified stuff I mixed up and did tests with couple year back? Was just looking at that sample the other day and would say acidified mix might be another route to go here. Might allow for use of an even lower percentage. Natural oil stains like AC products are one thing, acrylics are another.. I would advise against using even low percentage on acrylics. In low percentage use on a regular basis will see a coating brittle out and in higher it will start stripping it. Too often a cleaning by homeowner will result in a walked off traffic pattern even more so than the stuff does normally. Oh and yea I check in once in awhile Rick...just been working my behind off on concrete mainly. Finished off a 12k' deco job a few week back and so been recouping.

Oxidizers like SH or percarb in low enough amounts to do no harm likely not strong enough to kill anything anyway so am considering if no mildew/mold then a lite dose of car wash followed by a touch of citric acid to bright thin areas up a tad might do well. Staying a good foot or more away with mid pressure also likely go a long way in doing no harm.

Had to check this in case the guy died or something... was hoping a eulogy or prayer or something wasn't in order. Since he alive and kicking I just wish him well!!

A store corrected me.. what I lookin for is a round tip for airless not a cone..lol.. UMM but yea they all say such is not made for airless. Have seen them in a flat tip insert type. Being I wanted one for off an extension wand it looks like I have to rig something up with the Chapin type tips. Thought there was a thread somewheres here where someone drilled out a fan tip with a specific drill bit size to make short work of the issue. Thinking it would have to be like a .013 size to get the mist I am after. Any more thoughts on this? ps- "mist I am after" LOL..I CRACK MYSELF UP SOMETIMES!!

Anyone know where to get cone tips for airless reversible format? Maybe the flat tip inserts is only way??

If you use sandpaper and don't do proper step down procedure to finer grits than yes you will. For your first outting give my method of using screen backed up by a floor pad. Screens in the 17" size can be had at most any rental location, in the Home Depot rental section, or any good janitorial supply house.

Personally I pretty much despise the square padded orbitals or hands and knees method on decking! Being I've been one of the biggest promoters for the use of the big swing machines on decking over the years it is nice to see others capitalizing on them. Give me a 20" swing buffer , and some 60,80,100 or 120 grit screen backed up by a standard 1" floor pad for some cushion and I am a happy guy. That's enough cut for me almost any day on wood unless I grinding a slab. Needing to go any deeper or faster tends to put my jobs in the 'just reskin that ugly muffed up thing' catagory. But yea there is no compare between a little vibration versus a big swipe.

..just checking in on this old thread to see if we got any new info? Let's see where the following post to Scott leads us...(posted also on TheWoodPros) : Tergitol NP-9 - TheWoodPros.com Forum

Scott, And have you noticed it is a hard call unless you get right down there with the wood real close and personal? I tried explaining it to the customer like I did above with an emphasis on the idea that washing/pressuring ones way into the deeper/stained look is not really the way to go. I may have compared the wetting that would happen when the new oil goes on to the look that happens when one gets concrete wet. Telling someone basically that a prep that looks cleaner,better,deeper, or more consistent will hamper the length of time their new stain will last is bound to get an odd reaction so I am sure that is why I did not get a call back on doing that job. (disclaimer: none of this talk applies to other woods that I know of :)

My comments to this would be that penofin seems to be best applied to a shady area and I like Dan's science project..haha.. I call it fortifying with urethane though myself.. Scott I would just warn about going to thick when boosting as such or trying poly for that matter. You go so far as to inhibit moisture transfer on a piece of wood that you can't possibly encapsulate fully and you will be experience catastrophic delamination. :)

Ouchie mamma Jason!!. You gotta get some protection stuff. Surely there is some Born Again pun opportune but won't go there on this serious topic :)

With Ipe besides getting them to wrap their minds around the price issues it is extremely difficult to get them to accept what is actually going on with the wood or what needs to happen in way of prep for a chance of longer cycle between restaining. Last one awhile back, just consider it a consult, the guy had already done much of the testing for me. Main thing I think he never grasped was that once you take off all that sorta dingy/silver ugly dead/dry wood stuff, which I consider somewhat good and beneficial as a mechanical binder(for ipe anyways), you are right back to square one with oozing extracitives hampering yer coating or rather penetration. Did I mention this one before?,... feels like deja vu..sorry.. ;( (guy had Fenner's stuff laying around...wonder if he's heard from this one)

Dave & Mike, Maybe try the search function as I know there is some good threads laying around where guys have used boost/glycol products to properly get at the thick paint or synthetic coatings. A good dwell or soaking overnight under plastic can work to get it good and ready too.. Hey people, who am I thinking of that did that one paint strip with all that raised decking that went over to a stairway?