gregative

I have found it on my truck (which is parked on some mulch, near some bushes) and the quickest way for me to remove is with an old credit card. Pops them off and doesn't cost me a thing!

Getting ready to do a house on Fri morning so I went by today. Not a big deal exept they just had a black canvas awning put on. Was gonna shoot the house with normal sh mix but now I'm thinking not on that side. What's the best attack for that side?

My local chem rep says his pressure washer sales are up. Either more people are doing it themselves or people are moving into this field as they lose their jobs. Anyone bumping into this new wave of pw's yet?

So I had some xtra time on my hands the other day & pulled a broken down 4.0 4000psi machine out of the shed. The original problem was that it was extremely, etremely hard to pull the cord, like there was resistance against the flywheel. Before putting it on ice I had changed the oil on the engine and pump, levels are fine. It was trailer mounted and tank run in the past so I replaced the unloader and put on a bypass loop. Even when holding the gun open when pulling it is way to hard to pull. Rope or shoulder is gonna pop first. It is a 13honda. Wondering if it is the engine or maybe the pump valves warped or something & won't move. Guess I could try taking the pump belts off and trying. Anyone else had problem like this?

Changing the generator on my pw'r. Removed everything easily except the wheel on the arm that holds the belt. Put some WD40 on but not having luck. Is there a trick? I removed the two bolts that appeared to put tension on the pulley wheel but that didn't seem to help. It's Sun 3:00 & would like to finish replacing today. If anyone gets this message & has time to call me please do. I'll be trying to figure it out & not at the computer. Thanks so much.

Thanks everyone, My buddy owns a car a.c. shop and had what I needed. A "puller" of sorts. From a few other calls you can get these from a local auto shop. Set back up and did my patio while I was at it. Worked it to see what happened after I replaced. Kept waiting for it to fly off at 200mph & kill me but was happily suprised. Thanks for all the advice turned out to be a good thread.

Ahhh, I see the xtra holes that can accomodate a bolt that when tightened would force it off. Sadly the two bolts that tighten it down are about 3mm to long to use. Have to hit the hardware store tommorow.

Sorry no pics. Cameraphone went thru washing machine and my friend dropped my digicam. Waiting 1 more week til phone contract is up so i can get a deal on a new one. Been using a 49.99 dealeo to get me thru. Sure have missed a lot of good shots over a couple of months. Spoke to a couple people that said I need a "puller" that can be bought at the auto place.

Only my 2nd time working on a pump. I am replacing the oil seal gasket leaking on the middle piston of a comet sw5540. I've removed the ceramic and am left with the piston. I can look to the base of the piston and see the gasket. Best way to get it out? Kinda a tight squeeze. Did not know if i'd have to go in through the back of the pump to get to it? If anyone's got the time please call me. It's sunday & i've got work tommorow. Can put it back together if I have to but would like to fix it while I have it apart. Thanks for the help.

I also use little giant pumps as well, but not the kind with the float. I used to build pools & part of the construction was muriatic acid washes of the concrete by the twenty or thirty gallons at a time. They are tuffff!!! Now I'm fleet washing & even though I two-step it's not even half as harsh as I've put them through. They do go down occasionally so it never hurts to have a spare around as we all know. As far as the opening to put the pump through you can cut a larger hole and get new escutcheon and lid to fit from your local poly tank supplier.

Just wondering how many people call themselves contractors? I live in FL and only fields that are state certified are "contractors" (i.e. residential cont., pool cont., plumbing cont). For workers comp exemption pressure washing actually falls under the concrete industry (from what I gathered) but there is no power/pressure washing government certifications. Please fill me in on your state and how you label yourself. Anyone in FL that reads this please fill me in if you have more info. Talk to one agency they say one thing another agency says something else...

Have an unloader problem. With the trigger open the machine is working good. When you let off and it goes to bypass it seems the machine is bogging down/having a hard time pushing the water. There is still some water flowing through the bypass but maybe not as much as it should. Casually observing I cannot see the hood on the unloader kicking up/down. Does this sound like an unloader problem? I'm thinking it is able to get enough through the bypass to keep the hose or something from busting yet not quite working. Do you think it's time to replace or can debris keep the unloader from opening/bypassing all the way? The unit is practically brand new. Suggestions please!

Sorry so late responding, computer went down. The unloader is the al-607 that came with a 2600psi/5.6g cold machine from espec. Since I freed the outlet piston, it worked for a week before it stuck again and I replaced it. Everything working good except now I'm about 1000psi short. No debris in the line & everything else seems ok. What do u think? By the way, the construction on this cold water unit beats my local distributors hands down.

The outlet piston was stuck. After freeing it the bogging of the engine seemed to be resolved. I also took Paul's advice and fixed a couple leaks down the line. The problem now is that there are no leaks but the unloader is cycling every couple seconds. Any thoughts on this matter?

This is the greatest thing ever! You can mop up all day long with the proper look and attitude. I pay a little extra for those people who shave, brush their teeth, keep their pants pulled up, and speak properly. Even if you can't immediately answer questions/solve problem tell them you will research it & get back with them. I'll get the job 9 out of 10 times even at a higher price.

Has anyone else had problems with the wiring/contact going into their sureflo. I am on my second one. Both work but after a while I have to have someone else jigling the wire to keep it going. Not a big deal just a pain in the butt. Didn't know if it was a design flaw or something.

I'm not familiar with a Delevan. I only use the sureflow to apply degreaser on fleetwork. Have never touched a roof but might one day to try out some easy work.:)

Since I was posting today how about another one. Since I'm into fleets, I do alot of 2-stepping. I'm absolutely sick of walking to the trailer or depending on helper to switch at the right time. What kind of remote systems are available that are dependable and don't cost an arm/leg. I've looked around a little and am suprised that most vendors don't sell them. Is there one around that can handle multiple chems off of a manifold type setup (one two-way valve after another in succesion) or something similiar?

Just started having to hold the gun open to pull start my machine. It is a 1 1/2 years old and have never had to do this. The only thing different as of late is that I turned the unloader horizontal instead of vertical. This made the jumper hose from the unloader to the reel arc up in the air instead of laying down on the deck of the trailer. What gives? Isn't there something called a 'easy start' that eliminates this problem? I guess I really wanted to know why it started doing this all of a sudden.

Thanks for the help. It only did it for the day. I have a trapped pressure unloader not flow actuated. It does not have a ez start, never needed or thought about one until then. The only thing I have ever done is just make sure that the hose wasn't pressurized when starting, one sqeeze of the gun to relieve it. While on the subject of starting the engine, here's another question. Not to long ago I changed the spark, filter, etc...maintenance. It had gotten to taking 4-5 pulls to start. After the tune up it started on 1-2 pulls and then after short time back to 4-5 pulls. Any tips?

Changed my unloader today and put on a pressure gauge. Now it seems I have less power when I cranked it and the gauge read zero, put on a 2nd gauge and zero. I bypass the unloader to a tank with one port and put the gauge on the second port. Why would the pressure be halfed at the gun and the gauge read zero? Was wanting to use the gauge to set the unloader. Any tip please?

Yes, I guess that would be a bypass port. I assume a tee after the unloader would work. And the lack of pressure would just be the adjustment at the unloader & perhaps check the inline filter. I don't think any air in the line but will check that as well. Thanks.

I don't always wear one but certainly do in some situations & chemicals. I used to build pools for years and part of the prep process is dumping gallons & gallons of muriatic on the concrete. This produces a giant acid cloud. I thought it was funny that I was the only one that ever used a respirator. I could stand right in the middle of it & breath easy. The funny part was watching all the old timers dump the acid & then back off choking & gasping for air. Spend the money on a good one & use it. They have filters for just about anything... chlorine, HF, dust, asbestos, etc.

I'll make this short. I have two leaky wands/guns. They were recently bought & started leaking within several days. I 2step so I assume the acid has eaten them up. I took one trigger apart to inspect the spring & bearing. Everything looks OK but I assume it's just not seating well. Are they worth repairing (ceramic bearings?) or just pay for better ones. If they are repairable how does one take apart the spring/bearing part. I tried to take a picture but the file was to big & it would take me forever to figure out how to reduce it. Any help/tips?