bigchaz

Here Here! Sent from my BlackBerry 8530 using Tapatalk

haha slight drainage problem!

I've never had problems with the regular ones but if you are that rough on them they sell full stainless steel valves. Paul K was talking about it in Tampa which is the only reason I know. His site is www.powerwashstore.com the stainless part# is 3010 and the regular carbon steel high pressure is 3036

I mean how much sanding are you doing Dan? There's a company here that doesn't pressure wash at all they simply sand the wood down so far that it exposes all new wood. They use a film forming stain though, in the case of a penetrating oil if I was doing that method I would think a wash and brighten would be appropriate after a vigorous sanding.

I believe that probably references those who physically sand and resurface the wood (no pressure washing), in which case you would want to wash and brighten the wood before staining.

I've been getting it a lot on the newer james hardie siding....even if we have one guy rinsing the siding down it will still show. Almost like the acid reacts and lightens the paint. We will touch up the homeowners paint for free when it happens but you might be right about it being newer paint I didn't think of that.

Tony, that is absolutely beautiful work, true and professional wood restoration . How did you apply, did you spray that ceiling?

Anonymous is the clear winner for sure

Great work on the sanding. Have you managed to get it sealed or stained yet? Be sure to post pictures when you have it finished and the rails up!

If you're going to stick with a solid you don't need to strip it down to bare wood. Get as much off and sand any loose stain off and you can use the same stain...although your results are likely to be the same as it is currently. But yes pictures definitely help.

TAMPA! Can hardly wait...for some reason I was telling myself it was next week I think I psyched myself up too much lol!

I'll second what Rick has said, with a good cleaning you shouldn't need to sand to remove the gray color. If you clean again you can try scrubbing the surface with a stiff bristle brush before using the power washer to rinse. Cupping is a hard one, Ipe doesn't sand easily so someone else will have to chime in as to whether the cupping can be removed with larger scale sander. Nice Festool by the way, those things last forever and ever and ever

you only did one coat on 10 year old pressure treated? Thats your problem right there

LOL I saw that the other day....guess that artist doesn't have a mind like the rest of us out there haha

Nope, stick with the sealer store

At the very least a couple squirts of soap isn't gonna kill the wallet

Yea the "hairs" are what we call fuzz, not uncommon on pine. A light sanding will take care of them but stick with 60 grit sandpaper, don't use anything fine as it will close up the wood pores. Good choice on the AC stain :)

I would wait until it fully dries to check again. Hard to say but looks less like mold and more like some areas may not have gotten hit with brightener...but I could be wrong.

That deck looks real good Dan, nice color to it

Good idea tearing down the railings. I don't know what it looked like before but I'm surprised you were able to get that much paint off which just regular home depot stripper. Or are you using the actual gel type strippers that you paint on? Can you tell what the base color is? Is it the red on first and then the white or was the white the original color? Reason I ask is you can sand it down (I would prefer to have more stripped if it were me) but you may not be able to get the white out of the knot holes and cracks between the boards. Will make it difficult to use a semi transparent if it doesn't all come out.

I always tell them a year on hardwood. No longevity warranty on the hardwoods either, just a guarantee against finish cracking or peeling.

The fatboy is not downstreaming thats a chem pump

Same process as a regular deck, proper chems and low pressure wash

Many people helped me starting out and I am more than happy to return the favor now for those who seek it.

I would do a test spot. Sodium hydroxide should work on grease, otherwise for general cleaning of unstained aged IPE I use sodium percarbonate.