bigchaz

I'm sure yall already do this but always make sure to set the stain sprayer (whatever brand you use) on a canvas tarp folded over one or two times. Helps when mixing in case something spills over or if something were to start leaking with your sprayer

Do it. And get the deep cell battery I think its extra but worth it. I may even pick up a third deckster as a backup, they really do work well.

I run one for cleaning and one for staining. The cleaning one has been going on strong 2 years spraying stripper, cleaner, acids, bleach you name it

Great question....I've had a lot problem on that with hardiplank siding. Heavy rinsing pre and post ox helps but I dont know how to remove them once it gets on there. If I notice a deck that left ox streaks on the siding, I try to let the HO know and offer to touch up the paint. I've done touch up painting on probably a half a dozen or so decks that suffered that problem. Be curious to see if anyone else has a good idea though

Double post

Sounds like a job that's not worth it to me. I don't personally offer a clear, it does nothing and if it lasted a year you'd be lucky. What exactly is on there now? If its peeling and flaking it sounds like something bad (acrylic?). I'd be nervous promising full removal to the extent that a clear would look 100 percent on that job.

Rick they are just two brand names for a similar type setup. The Deckster is available from sunbritesupply and the Decker 5'er (actual name) I believe is sold by pumptec. I use one for cleaning and one for staining, but they are the same thing, heres a picture of my staining one. For our cleaning one I run hydroxide, acid, bleach, you name it. If we are switching chemicals I make sure to put 5 gallons of clear water through first before going to a new chemical.

Sanding will take 4-5 times as long, and certainly would not be cheaper than proberly cleaning, pressure washing and brightening the wood. You will leave remnants inbetween the boards if you rely only on sanding. Maybe you can mask off the verticals to avoid stripping the stain on that portion? Are they stained with the same stain as the floor?

MagicMan, please click on "Settings" at the top of the page and complete you signature line. As to the post above, I'm afraid you are a bit off on the proper method of stain application for decks. Where are you getting these numbers from? We aren't talking about furniture here, no wiping should be necessary on a softwood. No deck restoration contractor applies and immedietly wipes stain off. And sanding will not accomplish anything other than make a mess of a job that need to be stripped.

Mike what are you using to tape the plastic when you strip the deck? How does it hold up against the water and chemical, and do you ever have problems with stripper getting behind the plastic? I've never used plastic when stripping but it looks like a good idea on the job like that. Just curious how you set it up

Keith, looks great, the important thing is you have learned the process for prepping, and you will certainly perfect it as you go along. The cleaning/pressure washing/brightening three step process is important. Staining a deck like that, although we normally spray I would just brush it. We use a large truck brush (10 inches i think), (the kind you can wash your car with) and apply stain with that. No bending, just dip the truck brush in the stain and work it in. Its better than rolling since it has bristles and gets in the cracks of the wood between the boards. And then you can cut in by hand around the house. Like Rick, we have a 500 dollar minimum charge, only difference is materials are included.

Wow! I see your concern, thanks for the pictures. Disgregard my earlier advice reagarding reapplication of the stain, theres already way to much on there. If you do stick with this person (seeing those pictures it may not be the best idea), it needs to be stripped/neutralized and give an EVEN coat of stain. Was the stain sprayed? Areas under the rails should be tarped with drop cloth so you dont get an extra coat of stain on the floor when spraying the rails. Everything should be backbrushed to prevent those runs and drops you can see on the bar.

Sari, your problem is not really with Cabot but the company that applied the stain. I would call them to fix the problem not Cabot. The new wood should never have been stained twice as newer wood often holds less stain than its aged counterparts. If possible it is best to do wood replacement before pressure washing so that the cleaning will help even out the new and old wood. Stripping and restaining would be your best bet if you need it to look good now. I dont know if Cabot can be recoated, otherwise you may be able to clean the deck and apply a second coat of stain, but you risk overapplying on the entire deck and brining you back to the strip and restain option again. Post any pictures if you have some, that will help.

Power Wash KC, in addition to all the advice listed above: Your machine is actually fine, 4gpm is what we use and is sufficient IMO for decks. The Hydrox Adrian is referring to is Hyrdroxide, a deck stripper used to remove old stains, or good for particurally dirty wood. We use TimberPro products availalbe at www.deckguide.com. There are numerous others if you click the banners on the top of the forum. (TheSealerStore, etc) When you are pressure washing the wood, be careful to make even continuous sweeps across a deck board. You dont want to stop, backtrack, or reverse direction in the middle of a board when pressure washing it. Thats what gives you those marks in picture 4

Thanks, for some reason when I try to go under 50psi with the cone tip, stain seems to want to come out more like droplets and I lose the pattern even when adjusting the cone. Didnt know if a fan tip for lower pressure was the solution

Rick random question but do you use a cone tip with your decker or something else?

Got a lead for a wooden boat dock on Lake Anna in Central VA (just north of Richmond). Guy said he just bought the place and the dock hasn't been well maintained (lot of splinters). Hes looking to see if it can be restored/stained or if it needs to be torn up and replaced Let me know if you are around there

I guess if you are cool about redoing it, that part is no problem. I am a little worried about how slippery it may be when wet, you may just want to watch out for that with such a smooth surface and oil stain.

Bill is the color your main criteria for justifying your application method? I think you would be better off sticking with the 60 grit and adjusting the rustic brown so that it matches the look you are going for. If its too dark you can cut it with some natural tone armstrong clark. I have to imagine you will get better results using a custom color that is actually able to penetrate the wood (ie not on 150 grit). Adjusting sandpaper grit to achieve a certain color tone sounds like a risky recipe for achieving a good looking final finish...and especially so if you are truly working board by board.

Nice work! Since i've been asking everybody else haha...what's your product of choice for the white rails?

Yea we had to do a "freebie" for a customer who emailed me less than 6 months after my initial application of PROVTand he had black and green mold all over the rails. If I run into another tough strip and we are forced to do two tone, might as well try theo sherwin williams and see if it seems better against mildew.

I'm with you on that one! Reason I was asking is I have a similar job coming up and I have little expectation to budge the solid Behr on the rails, so I'm planning on upselling the two tone. Cabot ProVT has been OK, but its the thickest thing I have ever seen and I haven't been pleased at all with the mildewcide. That deck looks excellent so I might need to give it a go with the SW.

Hmm I like that idea..! Sorry for the confusing question though...I meant to ask whether you put your solid right over the existing gray to avoid stripping it. Like on those railings and trim did you strip all that down to bare wood or did you just just apply the deckscapes on top of the gray? Been using ProVT which is a pain to work with but its self priming so I can avoid stripping railings if they are slated to be two tone anyway. I'd like to try deckscapes just didnt know if you could use it over an existing finish or if you need bare wood. Thanks!

Tony that looks incredible! When you deal with verticals that are going to get stained with the solid white, do you still strip the wood or can you stain deckscapes white on top of what is on there?

Color looks exactly like AC cedar semi trans on the PT...in other words I love it hah.