bigchaz

Dang dude theres some serious buildup on there. On the plus side you are doing horizontal so you can utilize a scrub brush on a pole and a much heavier dwell time than would work for verticals. Just keep putting on the stripper and keep it wet. Agitate with the brush every 15 minutes before wetting again with more stripper. You may be lucky and not need the scrub brush, but do a test to see how well it comes off from chemical alone

Do you ever use the semi-transparents?

I spoke with one of the owners Mr. Clark, who was very helpful. I just received a handful of sample cans as well. Really looking forward to trying it out on a deck.

What a great read!

Glad they were able to block it. Businesses don't pay taxes...their end consumers do. Tax increase on oil companies is a tax increase on us..in the price we pay at the pump Simplest principle yet it amazes me that democrats cant understand it

Yea thats true about the orange look. 90 percent of clients this year are going with brown sugar. Fife made a good point a while back, maybe its the black pigment in brown sugar, but I still love when we do a honey gold. That rich of a look to me is hard to beat With all that mixing how are you able to give customers an idea of what the end result will be? You keep photos of every combination in your presentation materials?

We rarely get honey gold jobs anymore but I dont know what yall are talking about with the sanding thing. We do handrails included and some defurring if necessary but never sand PT floor Heres a small honey gold we finished. I thought it finished out one of the best so far

you're a better man than me ken that is ridiculous All things considering with acrylic and cedar that last shot doesn't even look too fuzzy What are you staining with? How many gallons estimated?

sounds like you're on the right track with your research. Composite will need to be cleaned with a light diluted bleach solution if there is mildew on the surface EFC38 would be a good cleaner for your rails. Order from Deck Stains Cleaners Sealers Staining Decks Wood Decking Sealing Concrete Paver Restoration. RAD will be fine too. I would stay away from ordering straight precarbonate or stuff from the chemistry store since they will be void of the surfactants and other stuff that is in cleaners designed for wood. Pressure washing isnt required.. but will make the job easier. Low pressure is key. Hold the gun a minimum 12 inches from the wood with a wider fan tip. If thats not available, a hose and brush will work. Let the cleaner soak for a good 10 minutes though before rinsing. You'll definitely want to use a sprayer for the cleaners. Just get a simple plastic pump up sprayer. Make sure the cleaners are mixed well so you don't have granules on the bottom that will clog the tip. If you spray at an angle and not straight onto the spindles youll get two sides at one and it will help prevent cleaner from spraying right into the back of the house. Have a hose handy and just wet the siding and plants down before and after you apply the cleaner. If you are using EFC for the cleaner, go with the citralic for brightener. RAD system will come with both so you'll use the container they give you. If using woodtux you will want to rinse the brightener off after letting it sit for a few minutes. I believe ready seal is fine if you leave the brightener on the wood, but don't quote me on that. Both stains will be fine for your wood. Woodtux may be a bit more difficult to apply, but if you are brushing the spindles you can control your application to prevent too much stain from building up. Brushing will be your safest bet for any stain. Or a pad applicator. If you aren't comfortable with spraying you wont want to risk getting it on everything. With brushing youll be able to see how much you are putting on the wood and brush everything over to make it even. With woodtux just keep a rag handy to go back every 20 minutes and check to make sure you dont have any shiny spots. If you do just wipe it off and go back to staining where you left off Be careful when staining around the composite. It will be tough to get off the composite if you drip stain. Use plenty of sheets and drop clothes to cover it.

Alright heres the deal. In the year and half ive been in business Ive restored countless pressure treated decks, one cedar and nothing else. No hardwoods Got a call from someone wanting a bid on what she said was very dense and had a reddish color when installed, now is silver colored. She didn't know the name but I guesstimated it sounded like ipe. Deck is 3.5 years old never been touched. Railings are white. Question is: Ill be doing the bid tomorrow. What kind of things/tidbits should I know before giving my sales presentation? Ill be using woodtux, either honey gold or brown sugar (what would be best?) I understand one year is the average expected lifespan. Ill explain my cleaning procedure, brightening, hand staining with lambswool etc etc. Anything I can tell the customer about her wood to sway her into signing? Or how should my presentation for ipe differ from my pressure treated one.

one more

alrighty here goes:

Haha just saw this part Rick. Apparently they're right about summer rotting your brain. If they taught spelling these days I would be all over that class. I'm taking professional writing next semester though so hopefully that will help out a bit.

Thanks for those links beth The brazilain redwood mentioned it can be used in 1" thickness. Will I be able to determine anything by the thickness of the deck?

Without seeing it im sure its not cedar and i doubt redwood. She mentioned to me that her builder said it was a dense wood which to me means she probably just forgot the name ipe. Ive never even heard of a redwood deck around here. The neighborhood the deck is in apparently has lots of ipe decks too. Ill take a picture and post it up tomorrow afternoon to be sure. My only real concern on finding out what the wood is will be to guide her in how its going to look when stained. I figure my price will probably be the same for any of those unusual woods.

The deck is 18x12 and only surface. I was thinking 3 a square to clean and stain (the wood is bare) too low? I usually give bid while im there but should I wait and drop it off with her after finding the type of wood? Will it be a big difference in the amount of work I have to do if its ipe vs mahogony vs redwood?

Hey your word is good enough for me. I figured since it was one of those exotics it was lumped in similarity to ipe. Never done mahog before

I thought it was pretty understood that one year on hardwood is normal What lifespan were you hoping for on it?

He sells a timberpro line of cleaner, stripper and brightener You can also get wood tools such as the makita buffer and pads for defurring wood

yep order all my chems from them too

you know its a beast when you walk a quarter mile away just to frame it in one shot

wow what a great project Ive gotten mad at solids before but would never concede to putting one on. Semi trans just looks too good to pass up

Is there a way to view all the user created albums? I can only go through each person and see individually if they added an album

4 coats of CWF over an 8 year period. Heres some shots my helper took mid cleaning TimberStrip Pro from DeckGuide Pro Center © 2004 - G&K Distributors Melts it like butter I liked the close up shot my guy took so figured id post it up

I always wear tennis shoes these days. Cant stand rubber and boots make my feet sweat terribly. As long as Im protected from the stripper mist it doesn't really matter. I can usually avoid getting wet so on a non windy day its just a company t shirt and hat for cleaning