bigchaz

Wow never knew it was completely different out west. Never seen a company bag around here. Dump fees would probably make bagging cost customers 20 percent more at least. Not to mention the time factor required to bag grass. Good mower will mulch long wet grass with very little noticeable affect. On some of these large office parks, unloading the mower bags would be a huge PITA. Mulching the grass helps retain moisture and can also equal about a third of the nitrogen normally applied through fertilization programs

No way a landscape company would bag the grass. But they should at least do two mower widths around the perimeter and house/drive to keep the clippings in the center of the yard

Seems like just about all finishes that I strip gather incredible amounts of mold under the stain. Stripping isnt normally a problem, but once I clean and brighten the wood often times it is evident there is still black mold on the surface. Usually the stripper takes care of the mold, but it seems like on some finishes it will work enough for me to get the stain off but doesnt go deep enough to kill the mold underneath Short of doing two strips is there something else that can be done to better remove the mold along with the finish. Ive heard that the oxalic can give the mold a rough environment to live in, but is it enough to kill it off while brightening? Is there something I could add to either my stripper or oxalic to get rid of mold under the finish (obviously bleach would be a no no with the ox)

Strainer looks good to me. My mesh is a bit more spaced out, but havent had any problems with the brass on it yet. It turns dark from all the chemicals but hasnt started corroding yet. The mesh tore on mine before anything ever happened to the brass. I just popped a new one on there

Real nice setup there bro! Hose reel is a cool idea for that. Do you have a shot of the back of the cart by any chance?

Yea behr and sikkens mostly. Is their a risk using bleach and following with oxalic?

Ive never had an issue with it So far anyway

I emailed the reporter and he mentioned he is going to do a follow up on the lady and her employer, simply because the story is so fishy. He said there has been several outcry against her shifting the blame around. He was looking for someone to possibly go on record, but since I dont do parking garages or even flatwork, I said i would try and hook him up with someone with more experiance. Basically if someone here has done garages before and would be willing to comment on the fact that you have used gas pressure washers without problem. I can forward his email to you if your interested in talking with him. Heck if you'r local it might equal some news coverage with you acting as a pressure cleaning professional commenting on the story. Good advertising

Unbelievable. What is someone driving through passed out from CM poisoning? Would the lady try and blame the driver for leaving the engine on too long? Ought to arrest her for negligence and failing to have a safe building

I think you guys got confused when I put that pic up. Those are seperate decks. Mine is pt. I was just showing another example of that black effect around screws

I have it through paypal on my website. Much more affordable and I dont even see the peoples credit card information. They simply type in the amount and it sends the money my way. You only pay per transaction. Not sure if its drawn more business (people don't seem to care between check or CC) but it looks professional and I push people to use CC when they are not home or far away. IT saves me a separate trip for deposit and final payment

700 sq foot all horizontal job I just sold with wood tux wet. Stripped the previous finish and brightened Any tips for the WTW? I learned on my sample tests that it should be really thin. The wood is pine. Planning on using the 18 inch pad for it Anything I should know or y'all recommend before putting it on?

I dont know anything about corroding metal but this pic shows both screws and nails. This is pressure treated. Spot treated it with oxalic and rinsed. Stained over with woodtux. I haven't seen the deck since it was done, but are yall saying the black will come back again even with stain over it?

Had the happen on a deck earlier. If the brightener isnt rinsed well enough even though it will remove the rust stains when its wet the water just sits around the nail head. So once the water dries the streak is back. Try using a stronger mix of oxalic and rinsing well afterward. Thats just my experiance, but I might be wrong

I use google for the 3 letter tgs searches. f18, 4 gpm, psi, wtw, esi, pro vt, rs, bga, click here to search f18 http://www.google.com/search?as_q=f18&hl=en&num=10&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&lr=&as_ft=i&as_filetype=&as_qdr=all&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&as_occt=any&as_dt=i&as_sitesearch=www.thegrimescene.com&as_rights=&safe=images

dealers are required to carry msds sheets on all their products dan. Your paint store should have one available for every paint they offer. Just ask for it. Even home depot and lowes have signs saying they are available. If you were to run into an accident in the field due to chemicals or paint/stain the msds is key in knowing what to do. It covers precautions for eye, skin, and respiratory safety. Not to mention if you were in a vehicle accident or something or had a fire, safety officials are going to want to know what they are dealing with. Beth - It really is kinda ridiculous. All my timber pro and pressuretek chems have the msds sheets in with the package. SASE is crazy talk. Envirospec mounts theres to the outside of packages as well. And its not just once either. I have probably 40 msds sheets from every order ive made. Multiple copies of every one.

You can dissolve as much as 20-25 ounces a gallon of f-18. I know somewhere I saw a chart with mix ratios for all types of chemicals. Not sure if it was for downstreaming or x-jetting, but with f-18 it was over a 100 ounces per 5er. Based on a 5.5 gpm machine though.

How long till you got your stain and seal? Ordered woodrich almost 10 days ago and my credit card hasnt even been charged yet?

I walk on it. Not sure if thats the proper method but i just use the pad on a pole to wipe it out when im heading towards the stairs

But do you have it shipped Rod or just pick it up?

How do you compare it to other strippers rick?

It says anything more than 2 pounds on their website bottom right hand side WOOD RESTORATION

Beth just an fyi, you can only get the larger quantiles of ACR stuff store pickup only. Only good for you folks that live close by

Doing a two tone on a deck that I was unable to remove all the behr solid off of. Rails will be white and WHG WTW on the surface Im wondering what part do I paint white though? The fascia board still has a bit of behr on it so I was hopeing to do that that white, but will it look better stained? I can sand it off if necessary. And the supports? Should they be white or warm honey gold? Same with the stringers for the stairs? Basically I was just planning on staining the part you actually walk on (ie the step treads and the decking boards) and everything else (verticals) in white, but Im worried it might be too much white. The picture shows the parts im not sure about. The white circle is stuff that is getting done in white. The spindles, rails, rail cap and rail posts. The yellow is what im not sure about.

I already mentioned the entire reason I even did white is because the solid behr didnt come off fully on the rails. Maybe if I was doing some high level deck and actually getting paid for the two tone I might try something nice like this. It was my error telling the customer I would be able to remove the old stain. When I couldn't, the next best option was offering a two tone free of charge for them.