bigchaz

Yea normally I walk really slow along the surfaces and haven't had any problems. Slow and steady has kept me on my feet for the last couple months. But it goes to show you, get careless and risk injury I was so glad nothing happened, since the homeowner had just left and cell phone was out front in the truck. Guess my young bones saved me this time. Ive tried to have a partner on larger cleaning jobs, but I dont have employees so its more on a if they are available basis. The scary part though is what if that happened to someone helping me. Id be in huge trouble if they got hurt. Ive always figured workers comp would just be too dang expensive, but does anyone know if they offer something for part timers? Ill probably only use about 100 hours worth of help the entire season.

I guarantee one year against peeling chipping or flaking. With wood tux its not a problem so I have no idea how Id work it. If by some freaky strange reason a penetrating oil flaked off I guess id just redo it. Only way I imagine that would happen would be improper removal of a previous stain. so the key is make sure you do a good job cleaning/stripping

Either add the sq footage of the railing in or charge per linear foot. So railings you do like 5-6 dollars a foot and floor 2 bucks a square. Or you could just measure length of rails times height and get one big square foot figure Some people on here do some crazy measuring, but im slow so I just do linear foot for rails and surface square footage. I dont measure all the posts, stringer, spindles, fascia and all that.

Well tomorrow ill be trying some prop glycol on a deck with full strength timberstrip pro so well see how it goes. Prolly do one bucket without to see what the difference will lbe

And if you did 20 ft in 2 hours itll take you a while but you could finish that tonight. There cant be more than 70 feet of rails right? So work 5 more hours on the rails and 2-3 on the floor. Itll be late but it stays light so get working. your not gonna make any money going that slow but at least youll have it done The middle of a project probably isnt the best time to figure this stuff out. Get it done somehow and then look into a better method or equiptment later

Get a pad painter for the floors. super easy to learn, and less mess. Just get a roller pan, and the pad painter from home depot or lowes in the paint section

If propylene glycol isnt butyl based (which im not sure of) that would mean its fine for adding to sodium hydroxide (both oxidizers?) That might be why the specification is for propylene glycol as opposed to ethylene glycol which would be butyl based

don't think you can hit it leaning over going to the sides? Lean your left side over with the gun in front of you and spray a few spindles down the rail then just walk forward with it. Youll coat the front by hitting the two sides and youll get less overspray back onto the surface...and yourself

Yea i think your right. The different names must have some kind of different characteristics, otherwise we would be using regular antifreeze for all kinds of commercial cleaning applications where the ethylene glycol based products are currently used.

Update: Apparently butyl cellosolve is a registered trade name. Still trying to find out what the actual chemical name for it is. Explain why i cant seem to find it listed in any product msds...they probably use the chemical name instead of the trade name

Well the main ingrediant in Rug Doctor high traffic pre treatment is ETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOBUTYL ETHER which according to the chemistry store is the same thing as butyl cellosolve. Is that a good choice or is their something else to use instead Ken? I cant find straight butyl cellosolve in a product I can purchase without ordering online.

I think the confusion is that most of these could be the same chemical??? maybe? The one Rod posted is listed is one of tons of ethylene glycol based chemicals all of which are synonyms for butyl cellosolve. Antifreeze never specifies past ethylene glycol in the ingredients. I wonder what the differance between phenyl ether and monobutyl ether is Theres tons of ethylene glycol ---- ethers. You got monobutyl, phenyl, butyl, n-butyl, mono butyl, mono-n-butyl, and probable some others that I missed. This is all from kevins link earlier 2-Butoxy ethanol CAS # [111-76-2] Synonyms: Butyl cellosolve; Dowanol EB; Butyl oxitol; Jeffersol EB; Ektasolve EB; Ethylene glycol mono butyl ether; Ethylene glycol n-butyl ether; n-Butyl Cellosolve; Ethylene Glycol Mono-n-butyl Ether; butoxyethanol; Beta-butoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol butyl ether; BUCS; n-butoxyethanol; 2-butoxy-1-ethanol; o-butyl ethylene glycol; butyl glycol; gafcol eb; glycol butyl ether; glycol ether eb; glycol ether eb acetate; monobutyl ether of ethylene glycol; monobutyl glycol ether; 3-oxa-1-heptanol; poly-solv eb; 2-n-Butoxyethanol; Ektasolve EB solvent; 2-n-Butoxy-1-ethanol; 2-BUTOXY ETHANOL (ETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOBUTYL ETHER)

You completely lost me on your second paragraph kevin, but if ethylene glycol (regular antifreeze) is a main ingredient in your stripper, why does everyone specify that the antifreeze should be the propylene based one if using it as a booster? Ken: Where to buy butyl?

Wow thats incredible. If you dont have one already, get a orbital sander/polisher Some 50 grit 8" hook and loop followed with some 80 grit will really help those surface boards and that post. Had a deck with some kind of deep dog clawing action in it and it really helped smooth it out. Nice money for you btw

Anyone know if there is any other products that can be purchased locally to use as an additive for naOH?

How do you handle your maintenance coats then? If even the lightest cleaning takes stain off, should you be wary of applying additional product? I realize this depends a ton on the stain, but Im assuming oil based here (or no risk of flaking, peeling)

Well how about this then. If you use a light bleach and the stain is failed and starts to come off, then the deck should be stripped anyway and redone.

At what percent?

Bleach/soap if its an oil based stain. You could probably get away with a precarb if the sealer is an acrylic and you dont have to worry about accidentally stripping it then. Bleach/soap would be the safest bet

dang i got a really long time still

The wood tux looks great on there What did you end up using for strip?

Youll want to prime first, but yea you can do that

Ive used 5 pails so far and haven't had any problems. It looks like the problems are from people who ordered a large quantity of product in the spring. It seems that they were using the bad tux after the better stuff was already shipping. That explains why I haven't had any problems at all compared to some who have all the drying problems. On a side note, just did a job with brown sugar and it looks real nice. Little darker than the honey gold and customer liked that it didnt have as much of an orange look as the honey gold. Really made the pressure treated i did look great.

Option: A) Replace the boards B) Repaint deck C) Burn the deck down D) Strip the deck In that order. But honestly, stripping paint will be the worst nightmare of your life. Ive never done it, but I understand that the chemicals needed to do the job are extremely costly (50/gallon and above). Someone else might chime in with where you get the stuff

Haha talk about unexpected. I started this looking for tips on applying Wood tux....Def got a good handful of that. I picked a great time to start using the tux apparently Might be time for me to start a "ready seal tips" thread if all the people who convinced me to use wood tux go somewhere else