bigchaz

Yea if you dont have a product in stock say so! I mean with internet now a days it cant be that hard to write next to the product "out of stock" or something so I know before I order it. If I pay for something I expect it to be boxed up and in the ups truck the next day not three weeks later

If there is a number of substitute vendors for one product, the main thing for me becomes convenience. Ie: Who gets the product out quickest, and does the most to satisfy the customer. Also shipping is a huge thing for me on internet ordering. I cant stand spending huge amounts on shipping that makes the product 50 percent more than listed price. I like free shipping or shipping built into the price. Although Bob does a really good job charging exactly what hes charged which is fine since his prices are so good to begin with

Mine finally shipped!!

Looks good! whatd you use to clean the deck?

You said you hoped Jim was using something other than graffiti remover. I was assuming you meant that graffiti remover was bad for vinyl. Ive used it to remove overspray/drips on siding with no problems. haha sorry if that was worded weird

Never had a problem with the graffiti remover...used to use it all the time when I sucked at staining

Id definitely be wary doing another coat on the verticals. Looks like the stain is still in place quite well. The floor wont be a problem as long as you back brush, since the Cabot decking stain simply wont penetrate as deep in areas where more stain exists. If you do it on the railings you'll have shiny spots.

Thanks, good to hear from someone who know bleach. Imma use that order of stuff. I was just worried about the bleach and oxalic, but with rinsing real good ill assume you don't have any problems. Do you pressure wash after stripping or after bleach?

Yea the bleach does tend to make the wood a bit lighter, but the black mold is a pain in the butt to kill for some reason. Thinking maybe ill bleach while the wood is dirty and then use my cleaner/stripper and neutralize. The dirt might help keep the bleach from really getting into the wood, but hopefully effective enough to kill the mold before I clean

My main reasons would be that at least so far they both haven't been super effective at killing mold on their own. Granted there has been some dirty decks ive done. But I recently cleaned a very dirty/moldy porch with 6oz of stripper per gallon. Look to me like it had cleaned quite well so I went ahead and brightened. but when the wood started to dry you could see lots of black mold and dirt still on the wood. Anyhow, the customer had given me a bottle of olympic deck cleaner that I figured I would just throw out for him since hes moving. Once I saw that the wood was still dirty I figured what the heck and applied it. Almost instantly the wood looked 10 times better. I had the stripper dwelling for 20 minutes and this home depot stuff worked in 30 seconds. The main ingredient in the stuff was water then sodium hypochlorite then surfecterent then sodium hydroxide. So I was wondering whether the bleach added to hydroxide would make a difference in another dirty deck I have coming up with lots of black mold. Precarb doesn't seem to be as effective at killing mold which is why I tried the hyroxide

Can bleach be mixed with S Hydroxide or a precarb?

I said most looks bad, but yes I agree it has its place. White spindles for instance, are cool. Usually it tends to be because of improper application. Not cleaning properly before applying the solid or priming if necessary Now if the customer wanted a solid on an unstained deck, I would try and convince them otherwise, but id probably still do it. But putting a stain over another stain/paint/whatever that im not familiar with is too risky. I cant guarantee whether the finish will dry properly/whether it will last/peel/chip/etc. I understand the desire for customers, but Im not that desperate. For instance, I was asked to do a bid for a deck that when I arrived was in need of a complete teardown. I could have slopped another coat of whatever crappy solid was on there already, but I dont want to get a call in two years when half the boards finish rotting through, the staircase collapses, dog dies from mold on the railings, and there little kids falls 10 feet to the ground from the spindles breaking off. So I politely turned down the job And you have to know there is a balance between the customer being right and you educating the customer. For instance if the customer insists 100 percent on you not using chemicals to clean a super dirty deck and wants you to put thompsons over everything, would you still do that? What about if the customer has some behr stain or even worse a latex paint they want on it? You want your companies name on jobs like that? What happens when the paint inevitably starts to peel and the behr turns into a moldy mess in 6 months? You still become the bad guy even if the customer was the one insisting. When people come over and see the deck your customer says "yea some crappy company came and messed it up" I refuse to put lipstick on a pig if that pig wears my company name. If I can take that pig and turn it into a smoked easter dinner with pineapple glaze and sweet potato casserole on the side, then ill do it. Just different business models it seems

Delevan 12v pumpe here (same as a shurflo). Rigged up in a carrycase that keeps the pump and battery enclosed. Rigged a switch on the outside to turn it on and off and quick connects to add lengths of hose. Use 5 gallon containers for the chems. Just Pick up the sprayer in one hand and a 5er in the other and im ready to go

I don't guarantee any finish unless the surface is properly prepared. If I dont stip a deck with solid on it and simply apply over it, that makes me a painter, not a restoration specialist. Besides, most solids look like crap anyway and I dont want to put my name on that.

If its the water based solid your probably in for a lot of work. Are you sure its not the decking stain? (its very opaque, but not solid) The decking stain comes off much easier

great before and afters nice work

Well looks like we are tied with the bleach thread...and no edits way to go guys

Finished a surface yesterday in the sun and the tux was drying almost before I could backbrush. Deck looks great

Order a new wand from pressuretek or envirospec north.

Usually spell my company name every other board with a 0 degree

Nice!! Howd you get up to that third story landing? Ladder from other deck, or inside? Didnt realize brown sugar was that dark looking

someone go on a tangent here I wanna beat shanes thread:lgsideway

Yea that fuzz is nothing to worry about. I usually dont even bother sanding if its just that Deck looks great btw. What did you end up using? WTO or WTW?

You can do it for the brightening effect Nice job btw

I did a job today with a bucket of wood tux I had from about two weeks ago and the stain was drying immediately on the spindles. Looks great and dove into the wood with no tackiness Curious how much different will the older formula (that you are rolling back to) be than the one Ive used on the last couple jobs? Color differances? And how much thicker are we talking here? Does the stain still have the same opacity (Same amount of wood grain showing through?)