bigchaz

Good stuff buddy, we still doing decks, its all we do. Just too dang busy to even get pictures together. Its a love/hate with wood thats for sure

It's the exact same thing Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

If its been on there that long I would doubt hot water alone does the trick. Stripper (soy gel or dads or similar) would seem like a quicker and easier way to loosen it up before washing Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Are you asking about a pump up sprayer?

In addition to what rick said, you're going to need more HD80 I would say Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

If your customer owns the fence they are really responsible for doing the entire thing. If it's the neighbors fence you are in risky territory even if your customer has permission from the neighbor you are still staining someone else's property and that person is not your customer.

Yes you can use a bucket and scrub brush to put the percarb on as well. I would go with the pump up, unless it's a huge deck it won't be too bad. Try to work in the shade and it won't dry out so quick. When you mix your percarb, do it in a 5 gallon bucket stir well and wait 10-15 minutes for it to settle down before pouring it into the pump up sprayer. If you pour in the sprayer right away it could over pressurize the sprayer and burst.

I love oils and find them significantly easier to use than any waterborne products Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

No and No, wont be strong enough to do anything. The off gassing with the percarb would probably interfere with downstreamer anyway. Do you have a roof pump? Run it through there, quicker than a pump up.

Heres the thing there are no alternatives to bleach. You could try sodium percarbonate or some other oxidizer but it won't clean as good and youll need to use pressure. If a customer calls you to do a service there needs to bea faith in there that you are the professional and can be trusted to do things right. Unless you sell yourself as a day laborer what you provide customers is knowledge, experience, and results. Seems like thia customer doesn't want any of that. I would pass. And since the house will most likely not get as clean you are setting yourself up for more problems down the road when they are not happy If their last landscaper ran over a flower bed with a lawn mower would you be ok with them asking you to cut the lawn with a scissor? Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

Experience with Ipe a must. Call, text (9193021523) message me, or post here. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

I had Google work on my campaign for me and its been crazy good for us (residential wood). Not sure how well it would work for commercial work. The ad placement for pressure washing terms around my area is pretty competitive so your bid per click has to be pretty high Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

dont plumb your entire supply line with pvc or it will likely crack on a trailer. I have pcv valves and fittings for my filters but the rest is flexible hose

We've been doing a lot more wood replacement the last year and it's always problematic to get the wood to match. Anyone that expects their to be no noticeable difference between new and old wood (especially pressure treated) is insane. With any wood variety you have so many species and treatment processes that picking two boards off different stacks of lumber at the SAME STORE on the SAME DAY could be a risk let alone replacing a pressure treated board from 15 YEARS AGO!!! The pressure treatment processes are different, the type of tree varies by region and of course as Guy mentioned, the stain penetration is of course way less on new wood versus older wood. I've even tried buying wood in advance sometimes to age it on my own property and install that before cleaning and staining the entire deck and it's still not the same. To me the more important thing is making sure the deck is safe and the wood we are replacing is usually in such a condition that leaving it unrepaired is risky. If you have kids or pets or heck even for yourself, it's not worth leaving a broken a spindle or missing lattice or rotten floorboard or splintered handrails just because the wood may look different. Initially it will be off but give it a few years and restain it another time or two and by then you barely even remember it was ever done.

sodium hydroxide based stripper and neutralized with an acidic brightener after washing. Will also depend on the type of thompsons, some of the newer stuff that comes in a plastic container has some sort of dye in it and is very difficult to remove compared to the regular thompsons wax product. 25x19 on my calculator equals 475. Two of those equals 950 so no idea where your math is coming from.

Depends what kind of joint sand was used. If it was polymeric you might be seeing poly glaze if they didn't sweep off well enough. And if you use a sc and its regular sand you will need to resand them all Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

How long has it been since you last stained with RS? If its been over a year and you didn't overapply, a percarb cleaning should do the trick. Just go easy on the Armstrong since you will still have RS oils in the wood it shouldn't take much stain

Depending on what the wood looks like you can still use bleach but start with 1% and go from there. I prefer to use different chemicals but bleach can still work fine if you are careful. Just watch to make sure its not too strong and you don't leave it sit on the wood too long

FAQ’s on Wood Restoration If by SH you mean bleach than absolutely do not spray 10% on there. If you mean stripper than you also need to neutralize the wood after cleaning.

Im the best looking pressure washer in the country, I'd say thats pretty successful ;) Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

Happy birthday Roger! I just gave his number to a Siler City lady today inquiring about staining a log home Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

Always a good quote

**Edit (July 2010)** For those of you stumbling upon this post through Google Search, I wanted to report an update that Apex DeckSavers (providing deck cleaning, deck restoration, and deck staining services in the Apex, Cary, Raleigh, Chapel Hill North Carolina) has been using Armstrong Clark stain for over two years now with amazing results. Coverage is great, oil penetrates deep on the older woods, and the color tone is fantastic. No color shift from the decks I've been tracking either. Scotts been carrying it at the www.thesealerstore.com so all you East Coast folks can get it from there. We primarily restore Pressure Treated Pine and use the Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent stains for most applications. Anyone with questions is welcome to email me at charlie(at)apexdecksavers(dot)com The thread below is several years old and has some great information on the stain before it became well known around the country. Thanks to all that contributed to the thread and the exposure this post has generated for Armstrong Clark. ***** I'm looking for anyone who has used Armstrong Clark stains or has experimented with them for some time now. Theres some info in the 2008 sealer poll but I'm looking for people who has used it on a job to give their impressions What kind of coverage did you get? Where to purchase it? Whats the viscosity of the oil? And finally does anyone have photos of the stain on a deck? Pressure treated pine would be nice. Cedar and Rustic colors in particular Thanks

I think Baker's is pretty popular as well, that may be a good one to add to the list

Spoke with a nice lady who has a large Garapa deck (about one year old, stained once). I tried looking up a few folks but no one from Austin Texas. If you are experience in wood restoration and serve the Austin Texas area, message me for the details.