bigchaz

Are those new? Those prices are really high for a 13hp and cat pumps Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

The only thing you can control is the way you conduct your business and the manner in which you provide quality service to your clients. Unfortunately there are bad powerwashers out there. Just like any industry. You or I trying to figure out a way to ruin their livelihood by stealing their signs, reporting them to thee government, letting air out of their tires, following them around, poaching their customers, or any of the other ideas people come up with doesn't do anything to help us grow a company. If he is in fact as bad as you claim and there is no other company in the area then it sounds like you have a good business opportunity. Because you worked for this guy and found out all his customers I personally wouldn't make a point to approach them right away and bad mouth the other guy, but that doesn't mean once you have a business developed and advertising in place that word won't spread and give you opportunity to offer these folks a free demo and illustrate what you can do. If the customer chooses to switch to you, than thats great. If they stay with the hack than you just keep on trying. But your first step is to start your business, doesn't really matter much if your just a regular guy who happens to know about fleetwashing.

No one likes a d***. You only worked two weekend, so he owes you what like 200 bucks? Not worth spending your entire month exacting revenge on the guy...and why is it your concern how he operates his business? If you want to start up then do it, but let him run his company how he wants, and you run yours differently if thats what you want to do.

I made it about halfway through...too much reading Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

Good point. Not really any faster or cheaper though unless you already own the sanding equipment

The short answer is no by the way. Your neutralizer is designed to cancel out the effects of the stripper and balance the wood's PH. Mixing two things together that are designed to cancel each other out gives you nothing of any effect to the wood but a lot of heat and I believe a sodium oxalate solution although I don't know what the mix rations would be.

Honest question here, are you at all familiar with the chemical processes behind wood restoration? PH scale, caustics, acids, etc?

bleach

Yes, the WoodTux will work on damp wood. We only use WT on certain species of wood now but even when I used it alot I still let the wood dry before applying. If you are looking for a medium brown semi solid, wood tux probably won't be the closest option. I would probably go with Armstrong Clark Semi Solid stain in your case, but there are lots of great products out there so don't let me influence you on that count. There are different levels of opacity with AC stains, you have the transparent, semi transparent, and semi solids and each will provide a different amount of opacity to the wood. For the two tone look we use Sherwin Williams deckscapes solid stain. On raw wood it usually needs two coats. They can tint it to different colors so you can do an offwhite or something to match the house trim.

Hi Tom, welcome to the site. I'm not entirely sure what you are looking to do based on your post, but if it were me, this would be suggestion. You've already rebuilt a majority of the decking from what I can tell. I would finish replacing the remaining floor boards. I dont like how they go in different directions from the new and old portion but it doesn't look like you can really change that. You could strip the solid stain and run a floor sander on the wood but even so your talking tons of work and almost the same expense as simply replacing the wood. On the front where the stairs are, I would run an additional fascia board to cover the post and it will give you the added benefit of covering the existing solid framing where the stair stringers attach so you don't have to try and pull that out. If you want to do do 2 tone, I always like white rails with a wood toned floor.

No don't say that. Not an idiot man, Its a good article for the time, sometimes we just have to stick to what we know works and your experience and results with customers is really the best test there is

For 1 thing the article is over 18 years old. And the wood was tested in a period ending in 1986 (which is 26 years ago). The nature of coatings has changed beyond recognition in that period of time and when it comes to testing I would hesitate to trust anything over 3 or 4 years maximum. Secondly, its basically only discussing film forming and paint, which in terms of the wood restoration industry is likely not your primary coating. It mentions semi transparent finishes (no idea what kind) and admits that pre weathering decreased coverage rate (ie, deeper penetration) which is exactly what we want when using a penetrating oil stain.

No idea what you are talking about. Please try to be more specific or place your topic in the category most related to this "smart gun". Is it a firearm? A piece of computer software? A pressure washing trigger gun? Also, please navigate to the "settings" button on the top right of your screen and complete the section titles "Edit Signature" so we know who you are. Thank you

Working solo slid on the top of a deck being stripped and bumped my rear all the way down the stairs landing on the rocks below. Before I had a trailer, loaded a 4gpm belt drive machine the wrong way and have the evidence of a giant burn scar on my left bicep. Running a gun with no lance to wash the back side of a deck railing, and from reflex I grabbed where the lance normally was to steady the gun. No lance there and ripped right into my pinky finger...lots of blood on the way scrambling down the ladder Sent from my BlackBerry 8530 using Tapatalk

9 times out of 10 thats what it is if we're talking treated lumber

What kind of wood is it?

Welcome aboard. What leads you to believe its actually mildew deep in the wood?

With Travertine how do you get the sand out of the little holes and crannies in the tile without blowing it out of your joints as well?

Which is ironic because if the boardwalk buy had stained the SYP wood in the first place it would have lasted more than 6 years. But now he is still going to have to stain it for aesthetics only the wood costs 3 time as much to begin with Sent from my BlackBerry 8530 using Tapatalk

Haha interesting. This last quote seems like my worst nightmare...can you imagine a customer calling about this if they didnt know it was special wood: " First was the mold phase - not sure what that was all about, but it developed gray/black mold spots all over. I did nothing and they went away. Last year was the fur phase. I read about this from some other users. The top layer of fibers seems to slough off, and it looks like fur for a while before the fibers wear off. Now it seems to be settling in. Not as much splitting as regular pressure-treated lumber but small surface cracks like you get with SYP."

This is on a new construction home that sat for a few years. Guess they never finished this portion. We stained the deck and I said I would do something about this gap between the siding and floor. I've done some decks where there is a 2x2 up against the house but even in those cases the siding usually still goes to the bottom. The gap here varies from 2" to 2 3/8". I thought I could just run a 2x2 but obviously that won't work (only 1.5"). How should this normally be finished? I feel like every deck I've done the siding goes down to the joist so I've never seen this before. I could rip down a 1x4 but with the space not being even that still leaves a pretty large gap on either the top or bottom. Any suggestions?

Celeste, I admittedly do not have the experience or what I consider the appropriate amount of time to devote to what I think a strong BOD member should have. And I would absolutely love to vote for Roger which I think geographically works well for me of course. What I have offered is my time and limited talents to improve some of the administrative issues that bother me because i'm OCD and i like organization. Member lists, dues reminders, mailing certificates, getting everyone on the contractor directory. No one likes to do that stuff but I've got 3 months coming up at the very least I sit down for a few days and knock it out. However I'm off the church now and I already have a tie on, so I'm ready if need be. Vote for Ron haha!

I can definitely respect that and I thank you very much for that service to the industry. And per your previous post to my knowledge so far the nominees I've seen are concerned first and foremost with the industry and the membership so becoming a rubber stamp is unlikely. But at the end of the day the only assurance for people who think Ron will destroy life as we know it is if we get those diverse opinions nominated and willing to serve. We can only vote for those who are nominated and have accepted so if Ron's opposition (if I may call it that) has no one in that position to run they have no one to blame but themselves. I'm the biggest cynic of all so I realize my serious commentary is less than convincing at times but to Beth and Celeste, I've learned more from you guys than anyone else around probably. Especially since my focus is 100% wood. And both of you are all about industry and networking and have an amazing track record of doing so. So what I don't understand right now is the commentary that does nothing for those who want to see the ***** lifted from the grave. I can't imagine it benefits anyone to have the PWNA as the sole voice of the industry. ***** at this current moment is all but dead, I'd written it off months ago. So now finally someone comes along (like him personally or not) who has the leadership skillset (maybe thats the argument? Idk) but anyway you've got Ron who has the connections, the background, the history in the industry who recognizes the threat with there only being one org and has offered to go ahead and put in a term. So people see this as a light. Basically the bulb of the ***** was broken before. So now we have a chance to get some new light or a lightbulb. Maybe the Ron lightbulb is a flashlight that is really dim and it uses those crappy batteries from walmart that die after 3 months. Maybe the Ron lightbulb is like an old time camera flash and it gets super hot and bright and goes off and fizzles out. Or maybe the lightbulb is just a regular old 60watt that goes for a year or two years and we all say, eh ok it was a nice cool light. Or maybe we have to use those crappy government CFL lightbulbs that take a long time to warm up before they turn on. NOW, all of those options are nothing great, but worst case it leaves you no worse off than we were before. BUTTTT!!!! OR!!!! WHATIF??!!? What if, the Ron lightbulb is that ONE dag'on bulb in the Christmas tree that you spend all month looking for because you HAVE to find it or the tree will stay dark. Hell, it could be the loose bulb, it could be the stupid bulb, it could be the bulb thats the wrong size BUT in that LONG LONG strand of lights you finally put in the right bulb and SUDDENLY the entire strand of 300 lights (members) goes ON!!! And THEN that one bulb isn't the end of the world and it doesn't ruin the entire tree, and the tree as a whole is a beautiful thing!

Ok Ill nominate you Beth, will you accept? Sent from my BlackBerry 8530 using Tapatalk

I get my buffer pads from here: DeckGuide Pro Center © 20010 - G&K Distributors But we include sanding on a lot of jobs anyway which takes care of any fuzz so the buffing is mainly for the ones that don't get sanded.