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Posts posted by bigchaz
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Yo, no one got my remark about watching the stripper work??? Anyone?Haha you can tell we are all woodies when the first definition that comes to mind for the word "stripper" is in fact the caustic chemical . Funny thing....I dont remember who I was talking to but I was commenting to someone the other day how after a long day of work sometimes after i shower i still smell the stripper on me...I got a massive double take LOL
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Charlie, just trying to help out. Remember, you were behind the 8 ball in realizing how bad woodtux was for mildew. You said it was great, while everyone had ditched the product for everything but hardwoods. Then you too got caught up and found out the product did indeed grow mildew. My prediction Charlie for 2012 is that you will find out what we've all found out. We all get lucky sometimes, that product doesn't match the quality as a company you put into your customers decks. At the very least put down some TWP and get that experiment going, just in case I am right. Nothing every wrong with hedging your bets.I'll accept your point on the WoodTux issues. However if someone was using TWP for decades and did hundreds of decks each year I would be more convinced on their experiences. You just posted a picture a week ago of the first deck you did with TWP so while you may be right, I'm more inclined to subscribe to my own results which as I've previously posted (at the two year mark) are doing fine. Tony posted his AC Toner picture and looked equally as well at that two year mark. We did a huge project this year with TWP (homeowner insistence), it had tons of mildew on it, so it is what it is. I don't go around encouraging people to avoid TWP based just on that because as you know, there are factors beyond just stain brand that contribute to performance.
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You've seen my work www.facebook.com/deckstaining and my customers would disagree (see below). At least I haven't had to experiment with stains every year after 5 years doing this
http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Apex.DeckSavers.919-302-1523
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Thanks Dan, but I'll stick with the Armstrong Clark like we've been using on 200+ decks in the past 3 years. You did one deck with TWP and now you're already on the sales team...seems fishy.
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John, I've used the ammonyx lo in the past but it only seems to make it more soapy, not necessarily thicker. The alka foam did both it was soapy but also it stuck like a gel to the railings instead of flowing down.
I used to say the same thing about the stripping and just figure I would sand out any missed stain, but I always seem to hate the sanding even more than just getting it all stripped the first time haha!
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Yea the waiting is a pain, but its so hot around here we usually are busy keeping it wet with more stripper so it doesn't dry out. Or watering down the grass and plants during the down time. I just tell myself the hour waiting for the stripper beats 6 hours of sanding haha
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Jim, on this one I let it sit the entire time before washing once at the end. The good part is the stripper started washing the top coats off on their own so it was able to start attacking the base coat by just applying more stripper.
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I guess I use a lot of chem? I run my chems from the trailer on 200 feet of 5/8 hose and 5gpm delevan pump. It'll suck a 5 gallon pail dry in no time. Granted it's sized down with a powerwasher tip on the end of the wand but for that deck I filled my 25 gallon tank twice and one bucket at the end right before washing.
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Did a deck today that was stained with 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Dek. Starting to peel as it hadn't been done in 3 years. The homeowner had bad experience with the last application and I was able to sell on penetrating product without the shine and film of the Sikkens. Not to mention the application instructions for Sikkens are just not practical IMO...must be dry for 72 hours after staining...I dont think that has EVER happened in North Carolina!
Thanks to those who helped out with advice on this job, you know who you are. We took orbital sanders with 40 grit paper to the railings to scuff up the finish and take off the shine (20 minutes). Then loaded it full strength stripper (Timber Strip Pro) with Alka-Foam and 633AD booster from ACR products. Also added some Potassium Hydroxide flakes to heat it up even more. The alka-foam is awesome by the way...great cling.
Dwell time of about 45-50 minutes, spraying the deck about 3 times to keep everything wet and used about 55 total gallons of stripper. The top coats on the Sikkens melt off almost immediately as they have no adhesion to anything but the previous coating. It was slippery almost immediately. Its that base coat that takes the most time it seems. Temperature was around 85 today, deck was in partial sun.
After scratch test and another final spray of stripper we washed it down and came off very nicely. Boosted stripper like that usually reeks havoc on painted siding but no issue there (just some door trim which we will repaint). Wood gets super black so needs a good strong acid to neutralize.
Pictures are only during the stripping process and after final rinse down (dont have any before shots).
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I'll keep you posted, I sent out cards this week been trying to drum up the repeat business from the 09 season. Not a lot of proactive people for that so gotta chase them down myself
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But to Dan's original post, for the Toner I think you did pretty good. If you have to have the look of a cedar toner go with the Super Cedar (Amber) color which is more transparent than the Cedar Semi, but has additional trans-oxide pigment in it.
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Here's a two year old AC Cedar Semi job (pictures are from last year). Some are better some worse, depends on conditions of course. Main thing is the product use goes way down on the reapplication, since you got a good amount of oil in the wood its much easier to get a fresh top coat on after cleaning. Even if you have to use heavier chems if you got lots of dirt and grime you still have oils in the wood protecting it
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I don't expect 2 years out of the Toner, which is why we mainly use and push the Cedar Semi Transparent....3 times the pigment
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O sorry I don't know why I thought you were using cedar...I don't know how to read apparently!
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Wow are you kidding me? You now have to pay to see the document that is not being shopped (read: is being shopped) behind everyone's back. And here I thought rape was illegal.
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That new cedar won't take the stain very well initially just so you know. Will likely wear quicker than the existing wood until it dries out some
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This looks great Tony, I dont know why I didnt see these pictures earlier
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Is 1-23 at all similar to Cetol Dek? I have Cetol Dek strip coming up never done one before. I've done old old old sikkens (not sure what type) but this Dek is 2 years old with 3 coats on it.
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Haha Rick, I LOL'ed all the way to work this morning as I read on my phone
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O yea you'll be fine, thats a good sanding job. Looks like you went a little rough on that pressure washing though, making all that extra sanding work for yourself hah!
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it depends on what color the solid was and color the new semi trans is. However it is nearly inevitable that some will be visible. There's not really an easy way to sand the cracks that I know of so best bet is to stick to something semi trans that is similar in color to the solid
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Here Here!
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haha slight drainage problem!
Decker 5 sprayer
in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
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For hose you can just use 3/8 polybraid or air hose line. Will just need quick connects on the ends to hook up to the wand. I don't know what the Decker wand looks like but I know Sunbrite Supply sells tips for the deckster sprayer which is similar. Sunbritesupply.com I think.