Howard

I had one of my customers (who also does stamped concrete for driveway, sidewalks patio's ect...) ask if I could use my equipment to knock the "knife edge" ridges off after the stamp process. He says he currently does this my hand and depending on the size of the pour it takes many, many manhours. I'm concerned and voiced my concern about the probability of taking the "cream" off the top of the green concrete with my pw. If anyone has any experience with this type work I would appreciate any and all inputs. Thanks

Jim Thanks for the info, I'll pass this along to him. By rolling it what do you mean, I don't have any experience with stamping concrete. Thanks again

Adrian Thanks I talked to him about the same things. He is going to do a test pour with all the different patterns and let go to town. I'll let everyone know what the outcome is.

No experience or input eh? Guess I'm on my own here, I'll post how it comes out when I do the test job

I use Citricleen from Steve as well. I love it just used it yesterday. Check out the pic's I posted in the Gallery.

I have two WAW a 16" floater and the exact 20" Stainless steel with casters that you are talking about. Only problem I've had in the past three years is I had the swivel go bad on the 20". Put a repack kit in and back in business. I'd recommend them

I'm in I have used this board to learn. I've bought products from Beth and Rod when they had their store, and count them both as friends. I've been to one of their training sessions, haven't made a round table, yet! I've talked to both Rod and Beth on the phone and they have never failed to help me when I needed it. So I'm glad to help them keep this board alive and well and hopefully growing. Paid today through PayPal. Thanks Beth and Rod for all you do.

Just my .02 worth. When I read the article I didn't see it as pointing at my company not being "Reputable" because I wasn't a member of PWNA. I saw it as directed at the home owner of "Don't try this at home" kind of thing. I'm not now nor have I ever been a member of PWNA I did frequent their site and learned alot from and developed friendships albeit web friendships with many who are members. In my case I really don't have time for the "us vs them " discussion. If someone should direct the "your company isn't any good because your not a member" challenge at my company. I will invite them to come down and have a wash off with me. Talk is cheap. Again just my .02 worth. Now I return you to your regular programming.

I wish the new org all the best and will be watching with interest the direction it takes. Good luck to all involved with the new org.

I've used it on commercial split block buildings, concrete side walks and to clean and remove rust stains. Pics are posted in the Gallery. Works great on rust I use straight, on the split block I soaked the block first then applied straight I did run some thru my x-jet to reach the upper pillars of the 3 story building you see in the Gallery with the glass front. Worked great, I try to keep some on hand for rust stains on driveways and such. Although it is sorta expensive for that, I believe its safer than oxylic, and I don't have to mix it. On sidewalks I soak them while blowing the loose dirt and trash off then put down F18 MAX then for rust area's I spray SafeRestore straight. Let soak for 5 -10 minutes then go over with surface cleaner. Works really well for me.

Ok I'm gonna give this a test. Up to now I've been a x-jet guy, but just ordered two nozzles one 0040 and the other 0035 as my machines are both 4 gpm. I'll see which one works well. When I test this I may be asking some of you down streamers questions till I get this process down. Maybe next year no buckets?????

Only if ya do something he don't like.... maybe improper pigeon poop disposal........

Jeff I have a 8k peak, 6k constant portable (wheel kit installed) generator. I planned to do the same if needed, lights at night then backup power at home. I still have to get the plug wired into the house so I can plug it in. Here is a link that will help you figure out what size to get. http://usdieselengines.com/power_calculator.htm

Lou Man I need to expand my operation up to Baltimore. If you're getting $500-$600 up there for a house like that. Granted you are up in the Big City, but dang...... Down here in Southern "debygodcapt'n" Maryland I would go hungry if I charged prices like that. I've washed houses that size all summer down here, except they were all vinyl no brick. $375 - $400 is the top price I can get. House that size takes me by myself, 2.5 to 3 hours tops. I agree with the other folks here though, don't give tier pricing. Bid the whole house, x-jet the front facia and eve's with your house wash, us a good butal cleaner on the gutters brush it on straight then rinse the black away. Oh "SH" = Sodium Hypoclorite (Bleach) I use 12.5% and H2O= Water.

I use a 8 to 10 count (depends on how fast you count) while adding cascade. Give it a good squeeze and count. All there is to it. Just like Grandma, a "dab" othis, a "smidgin" othat, never measured anything.

Cool just added myself Thanks

Ok so what were the spots and what did ya do to clean/kill/remove them? :think:

Jay Reeds spread sheet is what I use with some mods to suit what I do and prices here. Its great and makes it really easy to bid a deck no matter what size or shape. Thanks Reed

Jay I agree with Ken, you under estimated the underside of the deck. You have to count and figure all the sqft of each joist, how about the (looks like) 2x8 band board? each spindle can be counted as 1 sqft top rails I figure by LF. I don't have time to figure it all out here, but Reed has a data base that I use that will figure it out for you. Maybe when he comes on he'll chime in.

Looks to me like mold or mildew growth on top of the sealer. I wouldn't think it was the fault of the previous contractor. I would have (I'll get killed here) :lgbonk:used a solution similar to my house wash including (oh no here it comes):lgbugeyes bleach. Use low pressure and everything should clean up real well. I know, I know No bleach allowed, usually I'd use EFC38 or F13 but I do use bleach as well it does have its place in my tool box. Well there is my input. So Beth, Rod, what was it and what did ya do?

I'm sure to get blasted by all the Liberals for this but here goes: First off they are not refugees, N.O. is the first time people have been referred to this way in this country. When Andrew blew away all of South Fl in 1992 it was a Cat 4 it flattened Homestead and all surrounding areas, it took days before major help could get in and these folks were not considered refugees. Neither did they take up arms and shoot at the rescurers. I'm not compairing these two killer storms both were Cat 4's. I agree with the N.O. policeman who said he wanted to shoot em and put a toe tag on that read "LOOTER" enough said........... But not refugees, storm victims, evacuees, pick a term to describe the 99% who are had to leave their homes. For the other 1% I call them what they are, scum, thieves, robbers, looters, rapest, again pick a term, some will have more than one. I don't care if they had a bad childhood, they were abused as a child, I also don't care what color they are. They are scum and deserve no less than to be treated with the same consideration they give to others. Ok Now I'll get off my step.:soapbox:

I use Citracleen in my house wash mix, on concrete it works great. On some (not all) houses it works so well that I don't have to scrub the gutters. It's also enviromentally frendly.....give Steve a call.....

I've seen this said before if your getting 50ft by down streaming are you using an extension wand? I'm really not clear on this x-jet vs down streaming issue. I down streamed when I first started then found the x-jet. No more ladders, no more extension wands, but do have to drag around a bucket and extra hose. The fact that the x-jet doesn't prime above 8 ft really gripes me sometimes especially when its really hot, its the 2nd or third house that day and I have to climb on the roof to get that last bit of roof line above the garage. I guess my question is what tip do you use? The soap tip doesn't shoot that high so:lgkeyboarI'm standing by with my wide lined notebook ready to take notes. Thanks

Steve I use a soft auto brush on a extension pole spray some "all brite" on the brush from a pump-up, brush the cleaner on then back brush the gutter clean. I brush the facia only if needed, sometimes below the gutter or around the downspout it has the same black stains as the gutters and I brush (lightly) the facia. I say lightly because I've had "all brite" take the paint off the facia before. I've never had to brush all the facia or around all the windows, my house cleaner does all the work there. On occasion I've had to had scrub certian areas due to extremely stubborn stains, but that is rare. Ken I've never found anything that I can spray on and rinse off and the gutters come completely clean. I use Steves critacleen, if his gutter cleaner performs that well and can clean as well as the pictures then put me in coach I know how to play.

800k is a tall order, I'll bring my rig down from MD let me know if ya want to play trail boss, "head em up, move em out"