CCHSNC

Paul you are correct SH will/can damage ashalt shingles that's why I don't want to use it. I know it is the most widely used chem. for cleaning roofs but to me it's not worth the risk.

anyone?? yes no? I think it can because I think it is a percarb??? I haven't used the efc-38 but would like to get some and would like to know if it has multi uses.

Paul & Tony, Thanks for all the great input.:D Rob, It's sad to say but those #'s I posted include materials. I must say that a majority of my work this season has been in areas of homes that are under $200k. This is one of the reasons why I haven't been able to get a reasonable price for my services. I do have some advertizing coming out in September so hopefully this will boost the flow of jobs. I will also be tailoring my services to the customers needs rather than having just a blanket charge. Ooh yeah the advertizing will be in areas that have a higher income and property value.;)

Gutter Zap if not sold by Beth & Rod can be bought from www.xterior.com they are the ones this product is made for.

Ok, I'm not sure where this is going? I appreciate the input but I don't have a pool, I just wanted to try granular instead of liquid. I figured if I could buy enoough for the season all at once I would save money. Hence the name of this thread. I need to lower my prices a litle but do not want to loose my profit margin. Between all the rain, alot of summer weekend worriors and low ballers I've been taking a beating this year. I started this season with a minimum of $150.00 for house washing and an average of $1.45 per. sqft for a cleaninig sealing decks. Now I'm having to do a 1200sqft ranch for $115.00 and decks starting @ $.85 per sqft. This also depends on which area I'm in, but has pretty much been my starting point.

does anyone know if this stuff has a shelf life?

Thanxs

Would anyone be willing to throw out a ratio for powder? So I can use it as a starting point. I too use the emulsifier plus add a rinse agent and some liquid automotive wax I get from a local car wash.

it's fake

any takers on the ratio for powder? I use gutter zapper from exterior it works good and there in my town so it's easy to get.

I use 12.5% (liguid) @ 1:4 plus other additives. What is the mixing ratios for powder? I think I'll run by a local pool store to get a 5gal pail to play with.

APlus, I've thought about trying the pool chlorine instead of 12.5% bleach, how do they compare? Are there alot of different types of chlorine? The reason I would like to try it is I would think you don't need to worry about it going stail and can just mix as much as you need for the day. Is this true? Right now I get the 12.5% in 55gal drums for a little under $100.00 bucks per drum, how do the prices match up? The problem with the 55gal drum is if I have a slow month for house washing it starts to get weak. Does the chlorine have a shelf life? (sorry for all the questions) Any input would be greatly appreciated.

If this needs to be moved feel free to I wasn't sure were it should be posted.... Anyway this is a logo kbk designed for us, it isn't finalized yet. I sure would like some opinions on it. Thanks,

Design by: http://www.kbkgraphics.com

plain

Beth, Instead of starting a thread for this on other boards could you put a link to this one on the other boards so everyone would be chatting on the sameone?

Rain Rain go away come in the form of snow in the winter so I can plow you! Sorry, back to the subject @ hand. I feel it would be a great idea BUT it would have to be worth it. I currently am not a member of the pwna or the bbb, I just don't see the bonus on spending that kind of money right now. If there were perks in it that would be a different story. (I know there are good things about both org.) If the pwna offered the program and it was done well it could be benificial but how? I give my customers alot of do's and don'ts along with a list of references heck I even provide them with a list of questions that need to be answered before hireing someone to do PW or Wood care, it all comes down to the $$ (in most cases). They don't care if someone doesn't use the proper chems for the job, leave fuzz and stripes on the wood, use junk stain or ruin there roof with too much pressure. All they know is your higher and they can get the job done for less. e.g.Shoot I just put a bid in for a house wash of $185.00 on a 2 story 2600sf on a place that is covered in mold and the guy said he had someone tell him less. LESS! @ $185.00 I was giving it away. I just wanted to get into the neighborhood so I gave him a good rate. So I must ask How will a certification program help in todays economy? Sorry for the tangent I've just got a bunch of people in my area doing work for rediculous prices and it's starting to drive me nutssssss. :D :mad: :goodgrief :arg: :eek:

Ok, I've been schooled this season on quality semi-transparent stains, what makes up a good solid stain?

Thanks for the reply.. I was hoping for something more specific. (obvious) Easy of application for an even look... (could you please elaborate) Quality ingrediants..... (what makes it have) Durability.... Thanks

The decking had some Behr or something on it then the wife decided to spraypaint something on it and left an outline on the boards. stripped w/ HD-80, Neutalized w/ Citralic and sealed w/ warm honey gold Tux.

So I had to prep. a fence for staining (going to be solid) yesterday and whenever I do a solid I like to try out different methods of cleaning, ok here is my question... I tried using just the Citralic to bring a little life back to the wood since it was bear it didn’t need to be stripped or anything, just lightly cleaned. I was disappointed in the results after it dried it was still just as grey. Am I expecting to much? It does say on the label will brighten grey wood. I used the 3/4 cup to a gallon mix

I just need to lightly sand it to ensure a good bond between the old and new paint.

Oh yeah, I still have to sand and paint the railings

sealed (still wet)

cleaned