reed

Gavin, Sometimes a stripper when mixed "hot", that is really strong, can release some of the surface fibers and no matter how little pressure is used, the cedar will fur up. I pretty much count on defurring the cedar I do here when I have to do a heavy strip, but I can get some furring even when using EFC38 or another percarb. Cedar can be really finicky on releasing surface fibers. Redwood being more tightly bound in the wood fibers will not fur as much. If you encounter a really old cedar deck get ready for the "furry peach" result. After you defur, you will see that the deck will look great. Reed

Called the homeowner this morning. No word from the builder, meantime the deck sits and more knots are falling out. What is nice is that after I has a tanning bleed issue before any of this started, I went back and LIGHTLY removed surface stain/sealer. the deck still has sealer/stain in the wood and still puddles water. Amazing, this process should help hold the knots but the wood is so shoddyl it is still dropping them. the chem expert that was brough in, A competitor who bid against me and didn't get the job, plus uses the same chems. More to it and will elaborate more on this point as time goes by. Meantime, the deck needs to be recleaned and lightly restained. Reed

That's what he wanted. What a joke. The latest is now he wants a forestry rep out to look. I say, Bring it on. Will only prove my point that the grade of lumber was not what he promised the homeowner. Plus, he has no idea when the wood was cut, milled and/or how long it sat in the lumber yard. The deck was built in late March. That wood could have been cut as long as November 03. reed I'll keep ya'll posted on the saga. So far haven't heard a word from the guy since last Thursday

Out of 40+ views, no one wants to make a comment other than Jim? Jim, should be knots landing. The deck was built in March. No telling where the lumber came from and it could have been milled as far back as November. Reed

Take the guess work out of judging "moisture content" and get a moisture meter. Reed

I have on my bid sheet, "Make all checks out to Robert Reed Smith Jr." Then I can deposit or cash at will. Reed

Puter is now back up to semi snuff. I need to redo my entire email address books, so if you get a spare minute email me so I can uddate thanks all. Reed

Absolutely wet on the wood surface, try not to let a stripped deck dry, if you can't brighten right away, then at least keep the deck wet, but stripper will keep working until you nuetralize it. 2lbs, per 5 gallons is a normal neutralizing/brightening mix. reed

Now you are going to use WoodTux or ReadySeal right. No guess work and every can IS the same color. I hear ya on TWP, they keep making it and i'll stay in business taking it off. It's made here in St Louis and I still can't believe how much it costs here. 95.00 per pail befor tax. Reed

Gavin, Awesome looking. Well done. reed

This deck is over hung by trees with very little air movement. I had a little 1/2 strengthHD80 left in my pump up, used it until I switched to EFC38. Deck floor 1069 sf, and total wood sf 2052.38. total price to redo after sf discount, $2929.95. 7.5 hours yesterday and am only half finished with cleaning and brightening.

Here is the finished product. ReadySeal light brown.

Cuprinol, or now it is deckscapes, from sherwin williams may be able to mix the color you want. I have had great results with their brilliant white. Reed

I am going to use RS Light Brown. This time I let the customer pick the color. Choices were WoodTux or ReadySeal. Total time to clean with EFC38 and Brighten with oxallic was 15 hours. 200+ spindles takes some time to do. Also, my prices did go up for this one. The deck is 70 miles from home. When you are working by yourself and you sprayer is waiting for a refit, pump ups and such takes some time to do. Plus the damn weather here has been crazy. Still have to defurr a little and sand the handrails. Reed

No, thank goodness, the underside still looks pretty good. Reed

I have often wondered if the Torando did what it claims to do. Reed

After cleaning with EFC38 and brightening with oxallic.

Heavy mold/mildew/fungus

is the splatter coming from spraying the floor or spraying other areas? If just the floor, cut in about 1' with a brush first and then use the cardboard or sheets of luan boarding. Overspray is the chief concern when spraying and unfortunately you are experiencing the problems associated with spraying. The more spray time you get under your belt the better you will get in preventing overspray. Heads up everyone--- I recently was turned on to a liquid cleaner that auto detailers use. It's called "the Green Stuff". If you can get an Auto Dealership or big time auto detailer to sell it to you, GET IT. You can spray it full strength on vinyl siding sprayed with sealer, let dwell for just a couple of minutes and wipe the stain off with a paper towel.. Auto detailers use this stuff for getting stains off of cars for improving resale value based on appearance. The name they refer to for this product is The Green Stuff and is not to be confused with any other product with green in the name. I am trying to locate the manufacturer of the product and when I do I will post it. Meantime the only place you may get it, is as I just mentioned. Reed

I concur with what was said above, also would add not enough product put on to get a uniform coverage/adherence. Reed

unknown semi trans, oil

Andy, If you have a sample board of the color, you can take the sample to SherwinWilliams or a Brod Dugan and they can match it for you. I would just clean the deck with a percarb cleaner and then just seal over the deck. They are just looking for a cleaned look to get the house sold. If you are going to do a solid over a solid you should be ok. Reed

Absolutely what Dale said. The only time I am using full strength is when encountering CWF-UV. Why did they ever make that stuff. Reed

My favorite "picky people" are the retirees. God Love them one and all. They'll call you and ask why aren't you sealing my deck, when it's a torential downpour going on outside. They are the first to call you if a bird craps on the newly applied sealer. And the Big One, they are the first to pass on to other seniors the satisfaction they have with me when I finish their wood care and the value they got with their dollar. God Love em. reed

Mark, you also stated you let it season for two months. Two months sitting unprotected is too long to apply readyseal to. RS should be applied as soon as the wood is the right moisture content, 12 percent or less. Applying ReadySeal or WoodTux to wood that has been sitting for two months without being cleaned and brightened is asking for failure. I know your humidity and moisture levels in Oregon are probably greater than here in the midwest, so I'm sure you get different results. reed