James

The type of stain choice on ipe has more to do about understanding how to care for the maintenance of that stain. On a covered porch RS is very easy and last a long time . If parts of it are exposed and hit by weather you have to learn to deal with that issue.

You can use vinegar. Milky grayish is where all the dead/ weather wood didn't come off. Buff it off manually.

Go away!

There is about 13 different species of wood that goes under the mahog name. The lighter the color the crappier the wood is. The darker the color the more dense it is. The newer is it and the more sanding you do to the surface the less oil it will take. I take care of a boat load of mahog decks. Very difficult to strip and prep the surface. Most I maintain are every other year with sum every year. I came up with the RS/WTX mix for Mahog that someone copied.

Mahogany takes more oil than Pressure Treated.

Actually you can use high pressure and hot water on ipe and no chems.

For a homey doing their deck the longer you wait the better the second coat will penetrate. The more oil you get in the first time the better.

Jon, I have to say you have the most impressive work related video's I've seen.

Do by hand until you get any good.

Dan that is one nasty deck. I just quoted a 10 year old Pt deck with cabots clear coat on it the first year. then in the 6th year they put sikkins on it. The didn't like the look and had the painter put 2 more coats on. Now it looks like a scab when its ready to come off. I did a test spot and got to the cabots what a nightmare !!!!

Danny , on duggy fir decks I go very simple because they are difficult to care for with regards to excepting a finish. I go with RS LB cut with Klear RS cut with spirits. This is a breeze to care for- wash / reapply same day. Duggy fir rots when covered with a filmer. I have one customer who put linseed on every year for 20 years. Deck looked pretty kool . Black and board replacement every so often.

You have a lot going on there. Keep it simple with clear RS. The ceiling comes out great with clear or light brown RS. When time to clean wash re- apply a light coat.I have a few ceiling strips in my time( big pain ) . Just keep it simple. KISS....... I switched most of the decks it did with AC back to RS.

I had kool aid spilt on the key board.

Because there is two different woods it will be two tone using one color of ready seal. Do not use clear on mahogany.*med red med brown is a great mix for mahogany.

IwoulduseklearRS-just-foundoutmysonspilledkoolaidonkeyboardsomanythingsdontworkandantanswer

Redwood brightens up better when almost damp. It also has the the most tannins.

The solution was and is very strong bleach. The type of mold /algae is very aggressive and happens during very wet periods. The fungus can come from trees and get blown onto decks. To kill it you will fur up the surface of the deck. So be prepared to buff. If something isn't working go stronger !!

Does the PWNA have a Hall of Shame ?

Looks great. If you can cover the furniture when not in use you'll get much more life out of a finish or cover the table and tip the chairs against the table.

That's funny !

Very nice detailed work.

With PT wood and AC the linseed starts to set up and the second coat doesn't penetrate enough for me. It makes the surface look great. This is why I would put a coat of RS clear in the wood first to get more oil into the wood and top that off with AC. Getting a higher percent of solids into the wood ( non-drying oil) is much better for preservation purposes . Cedar doesn't take as much oil as PT so AC is more suited for it but mildew has been a constant issue for me . I still use AC for garage doors.

My comment was intended for Rick and to be funny, not in invoke paranoia .

That wood does not look preserved. Needs oil. I put a coat of RS first to get more oil in the wood and then top it with AC . I have changed all back to RS except the grey ones I did. To many mildew problems to contend with .

But , those people are wrong and I am the Ready Seal Guru.......