James

Do you have a hot water machine ? Hot water works well removing paint. What are the temps up there now ? If temps R in the 50ties forgetabout using a stripper this time of year.

Mahog turns grey like that and its not the bleach. It is a beach to get rid of.

I actually add sodium Hydroxide for certain types of cleaning to pre carbs but my favorite mix is bleach and sodium hydroxide. That combo is the bomb. I wood not recommend and do not use precarbs for maint. of a sealer. It wants to lift off the color and if it's to weak it's useless. Bleach does not affect trans-oxide piggy's. After using a precarb the wood gets darker so a brightner helps the color.

Congrats ! It's great to be proud of your human !

Rod u don't look a day over 65 !! appy earthday !!!!

That is quite a project. I had a 100 gallon house last year and a 200 gallon project a few years ago.

Call Tom from ACR he'll drive it to U !!!! LOL

very nice

Just quoted a famous Chefs cedar shake roof !

Holy poop ! Your housing authority has money ? Congrats .....

Pandora- Plug in Kenny Wayne Shepard and go all day.

Pressure Treated because of the the Copper. Wood not turn grey ( ACQ).

B & R, actually Ipe' can keep it natural color for awhile. If it doesn't get hit by much rainfall it will not wash away. I've done decks over a year old that had color and you wash it away.

Jake , I gave you a lot of information in that post. Maybe too much ? Your welcome . The Industry standard for Ipe is for customers to join a 12 step program or go to a Wood therapist to learn how to deal with there dis-appointment over there finish not lasting. Or call the Wood Whisper ( Diamond Jim)......LOL !!1

They but them at an angle for finishes going on vertical siding.The 40 degree will test the worst case scenario of the sun exposure.. That is a good test for siding. I have written a couple of long responses about Ipe . They wood probably **** people off . I have done so much testing and with ipe decks I care for . I try different combos of everything, mix my own levels of ingredients for the best results . The most interesting factor is the lack of knowledge by the sealing makers concerning the wood. Everyone of them are clueless about the wood but there is a market ! They all hate the wood and it causes constant head aches for them.

Beautiful job !

Because Ipe has so much natural oil it doesn't not allow moisture to enter , dries faster on its own and repels foreign matter. A non-drying oil and drying oil has two problems from the start . The wood doesn't want it there because it can naturally deflect moisture and moisture produced by nature (rain, snow, condensation,morning dew). So you have oils fighting each other . When you have a wood fighting you from below the battle is lost from the start. Basically it's how long can I make the product last and give this wood some color ? When using a straight non-drying oil like RS the oil is the carrier for the pigment. The pigment prevents the wood from turning grey. The oil gets bounced out of the wood in direct correlation to how much precipitation you've have in the area ( 4 to 6 months). So the more pigment you have in the oil the longer the color retention. Once the oil is gone some pigment is lost after each precipitation . The the sun has been doing its work all the time too and will continue ..... Light colors don't work and oiling in the first 6 months is a waste of time and customers money. Drying oils- So how much is really in the products we use on Ipe to get them too work? How many coats do you have to do to form a solid barrier or add other ingredients to make something stick. Or do you put some type of drying finish on and maintain by sanding and re-appling ? The problem with this method is once you miss maintenance it's over and at some point it all has to be removed. The other issue is more mildew is introduced and attracted. These products keep the wood wetter longer and attract mildew. Once drying oils start to break down they hold moisture longer and attract more dirt and mildew. Wood Tux did this fast !! Combo Non- Drying oil, Drying oil- With this combo you have to ask yourself is there enough room in the wood for the non-drying to be absorbed and the drying oil to lock it in place. Which one carries and holds the pigment for color retention. So the more you can get into the wood the longer the color will be held. So at what point will the wood absorb the most quantity of product to give the longest life ? Adding more pigment will add to color retention and make the wood look better longer. All of this is in relation to the age of the wood and how much natural oil its lost. Solid content is a very important factor to understand . If you have wood that will not accept product and has to get spread over a larger area to work. Everything gets spread thin to make the product work. So the ratio of the non-drying oil to the drying oil is a factor to consider and when best to apply the product. As we know many Drying oil products have that re- application of product at intervals for new wood because of how much that can be applied at first. The Test - One piece of board 3 inches thick on a roof that no one walks on in AZ ? Most boards are 6" wide, cup , hold water and are flat on the ground. The difference between verticals and horizontals with Ipe is monumental in regards to product and color retention . Do a test that simulates reality and don't produce the facts until you really know. Get boards and apply product at intervals of aging. How much more product was applied at each point to get the best results ? Getting a news flash every once in a while and a picture of a roof in AZ is pretty comical or cosmical . Too me anyway ! I use RS and AC on Upe and do a significant amount of testing, trials with hardwoods. I am responsible for many methods and application processes used on hardwoods today.

Rain, mildew, snow is what kills hardwood finishes. Not the sun or heat. The test out there doesn't represent the conditions in the North East.I have 5 year old Ipe verticals that look good.The age of the wood is a consideration. A five year old Ipe deck that is finished will last longer then one done that is one year old because more product can be put down. Takes longer to erode away. . The more pigment in the product does work better than light colors because of the eroding factor. The dark colors get lighter.

I have used a wet vac, a steam cleaner and something else in these situations. Steam cleaner is cool to clean with( i have one). You can just use your buffer and vac it then spritz an acid on

Interesting read. I was looking up re-skinning and came across this thread. I have been involved recently with a few blunders of epic proportion by builders that seal and do not understand that the first finish is so important. It's better in our industry not to do anything if you don't know. But, the opinion to get something on the new wood to protect it still prevails . This notion is directly related to all first finish failures and decks being done multiple times in the first few years without success and having to go back to bare wood.

It's one of those things that could be affected and more from the Sun. I think spring and fall are more of an issue for dampness. Keep it covered. I miss my MGB. A couple more years and I will have another but not sure what kind of little car yet. I saw a mint TR4 over the weekend but yellow. Not fond of yellow. My problem is fitting into some of these new 2 seaters. They seem to be made for people under 5'10. I cannot fit in a Miata or the Chrysler crossfire and not comfy in older BMW 2 seater. At 6'2 it was a good fit in the MGB.

Beth, If you leave the deck with a oily film on it that oily film and pig will turn into a rubbery film coat. Or a skin coat.

Very simple, you put too much on and it dried on the surface. You must wipe off what doesn't go in before you leave the deck. Less is best! it's easier to put more on than to have a skin form. Decks less than two years old or a deck that you stripped that was sealed right after being built present the most problems with oil absorption. You have to understand how much oil the wood will take.

Very nice

I think a major point in understanding woodcare is how to maintain what you put down and what it takes if you do understand this point. Once you go beyond a certain point with products like SRD they have to be removed. I know all of the products I use can easily be maintained and if a customer chooses to go in a different direction there will not be an issue . Actually a benefit ! I know this because I have had health issues which have led people to go in different directions with their wood care and some just didn't do anything until they called to see if I was ok ( this year). All of the finishes had to be stripped and very difficult to correct. All of the finishes let go where a breeze and still had oil in the wood, most from 2005.