James

I have never had trouble with a lawn.

The success in dealing with Upe' is directly related to how much it looses of it's natural defenses before a stain is put on . Which takes a year and better with two ! Putting anything on in the first year stops the natural process and your stain from having success. Which is limited already. IF YOU STRIP A UPE DECK THAT WAS FINISHED IMMEDIATELY AFTER BEING BUILT LET IT AGE !!!!

In order to use a stain you have to understand the wood. To use a stain you have to understand it's content and how it works in the wood. If your trying to achieve a Dark color on a wood that can not take much product it will not work because your spreading the pigment much further over an area so it will be lighter. Dark colors do not work well on horizontal cedar. Remember Alaskan Cedar in general is very difficult to care for or it can be real easy as it ages.

Rick ,I Hate those things, Rick, I hate those things, Rick, I hate those things.............ect.......

No Rod, you made it go that way.

This was a good thread and the home owner was getting great advice from someone who has a history with the type of wood until certain people entered the thread and turned it stupid. I miss used the word cured but people understand what I meant ! If you have a Oil that is 50% parrifin and 25% linseed. The wood is Alaskan Cedar that has been sanded with and down with 150 grit. This wood gets no penetration of an oil due to the type of wood it is unless it been in the weather for a few years and people tell them something is a good choice based of what ?How does the oil get distributed and the linseed cure on top with a 2 to 1 ratio ? I know the answer because I use AC on difficult wood but you have to do things to to make it work.

Your HIGH on LIFE now !!

I think Rick means the pigment ? The pigment doesn't dive deep into the wood either. The wood acts as a filter and collects the color at the surface.

I guess cures is the wrong word but it never stay's oily. Curing is for drying oils. I really don't understand Rod's point about his samples and his inability to have success with RS? Seems like a personal problem to me. I really don't understand Rod's point about Alaskan Cedar shrinking either ? It's one of the more stable woods along with Port orford cedar no shrinking at all ! And, If any thing the most consistent oil performer has been RS on the BB's.

150 grit sand paper will put to smooth of finish and reduce penetration of a stain . Should go with 60 grit. Every grit you move up to reduces absorption of product.

True story! Was quoting a Upe' deck. The deck was finished immediately after being built . It wasn't looking to good so the owner put More ON. Still wasn't happy so he put More On. The next year he put More On. After telling me the history of putting More On, his words!! We started to laugh and I said you know who the Moron is now !!! Got the job !!

RS cures at the surface. I use it every day. If its oily u put to much on.

I take care of every cedar there is, Port Orford, Alaska, Number one clear and all others. I have realized people who make sealers have no clue what works on certain woods and have no clue about wood restoration. On the other hand many sealing companies will tell you there products work when they should not be used on certain woods. I am involved will five decks right now with the wrong product used and the info came from the sealing companies. I have the OK to correct all the decks. In this case they are being careful and safe. There are not too many decks built with this wood !Maybe yours and the one I care for? Port Orford and Number oNe clear Cedar are more difficult to take care of. Make sure its not Port orford because its more difficult to care for when sanded. In your case Ready Seal is a very good choice and I have cared for an Alaskan deck for over 10 years now . The sides are western cedar and the floor Alaska. The wood is considered close to being a Hard wood and is used for furniture. This photo just happens to be Medium Brown cut with clear. I like to reduce the pigment on cedar. The client had major issues prior to my taking over the care of this wood. I had no one to bounce my thoughts with about sealing this wood over 10 years ago because of it's rarity . It is beautiful and easy to care for now . At first because you sanded. The wood may not take much oil but with aging it will. When sealing the first time if oil doesn't go in in an hour wipe it off.

I miss my MGB

That is a Great Job !

This photo was take as I just cracked a bottle of Dom Perignon and lit up a Cigar for a job well done ! I love working on the Ocean and see this at the end of every day !

Here's an old one ! I remember a big Bleach debate was going on when I was sealing this deck. This is Port Orford cedar and I'm do to re seal this deck again soon. Has seen nothing but Bleach and a little soap as a maintenance cleaner 5 times. BDA all the way baby !

I need a vacation there ! That wood looks great ! I still like the value of RS and the future maintenance issue.

Safety glasses and get a Turbo nozzel. Bloww off as much crud as possible then use very strong mix of bleach and sum soap. Then do the detailing

Two U-pay jobs from the weekend.Smaller one a referral from Archedeck deck builders (new) and big one a referral from Beth and Grime Scene. Which had 3 coats of Sick O's on it. The Sikkens was put on right after completion and never penetrated. I used LCS to remove finish from EaCo chem 2 five gallon pails and 8 hours to strip 1000 sqft. 10 hours of finish work. New deck 7 hours prep and staining.

I pretty sure it's Mahog. That was criminal! Nice work !

Stain application and type is a new innovation and method . Kept under my dog Skippy's food bowl. I was seriously considering dumping the care of U-pay but I am getting to many to fix. I received a couple of very interesting request today concerning U-pay !

I have changed the name of ipe to U-PAY! Customers get it rather quickly. LSC is from EaCo and is a different blend of stripper. Works well for certain finishes like the one I removed above. Works fast!

You can find drops and tarps and cheap stuff at Dollar stores. Ask old Aunts for sheets and old towels. Buy good brushes. Brush cleaner restores old brushes left in Drying oil sealers. Drive by cabinet stores and dumpster dive for card board. If there is a lot of card board the economy is getting better !!

just watch where you start and stopped. there may be a slight lap unless you planed for doing half and start in a place that will not be noticed.