James

I've been doing stuff for 10 years with RS and other products. The wood type and it's age dictates what I do not the sealer. Knowing how to manipulate a sealer to function better and achieve a better results is fun and a challenge. RS clear is a great foundation in sum instances. Sorta like a primer in the paint wold. It's a great foundation,I can add Pigment to it to make a BGA product, thin it or add drying oils to it or just use it like is.

Kevin , sometimes I can not decipher your points of view? Gee, it's really, really difficult to put down a coat of oil on the floor of a deck and let it sink in to get better results and a better looking deck and top coat it with something. I am and have been using these method for years with the use of different top coats with great success. Putting a non-drying oil first works much better! Filler up and topper off. KISS ! I am not using it as a less $$ filler but it is! I have done it for years as a better way to preserve the wood! The more and higher percentage of a product being put down as a first coat(non-drying oil) . The easer the second coat will work! KISS. What can be simpler than that ?I am not looking for your approval. I am just letting go of some methods that work.

In the last photo it looks like bleach could have been miss used or just swished around and lighten that area. To correct a bleach solution can be used to even everything out. Do a sample area.

So Kevin, what your saying is it's better to use a non-drying oils first then use a Linseed type to seal in the non-drying oil. And if do that first you will use less of the Linseed type product. And using to much of a Linseed type and building up coats is bad for exterior horizontal wood. Is that what you said ?

Rick, how about Large Boner !

Dan , just do something! Your the one that over thinks without results. I can give answers with and how things work because of proven results. It's not difficult! Or just follow the directions on some can. Take the theory and put something to work and make it happen.Stop your forever whining about products !

Light Brown with Toner is pretty nice. I call it Boner !

Charlie, because you have to understand what the linseed is doing in the first ap. Do you want all of the product say 87% with RS getting sucked up by the wood fibers or 50% doing it and with 25% filling voids and incapsulating wood fibers. Which do you think wood produce the best result for wood preservation and ease of the next or second application ?

Henry, how does it do that by getting rid of the mildew ? You can use bleach to clean up any biological stain on stone.

Dan, I can tell what works better by actually doing and observing what I have done. I take the theory and produce the results. I use AC as a finish coat or a top coat. I know how much oil should go into the wood. I wood be concern when using AC on mahog or hardwoods in general( not Ipe) because of all the cracks and splits and how the linseed dives in and around these areas. Soft woods are a different scenario how linseed works and migrates. Linseed does not rebulk wood fibers it fills voids and hardens.

An issue with AC is when the wood needs more oil the first coat does not go deep enough and the linseed starts to set up and the second coat can not go beyond filling out and making the linseed coat look even. This is why I use RS as a first coat. Why not have a solid content of 87% oil go first with out something setting up and top off and seal in with something. Gee ? makes too much since? You have to know your math when doing and using sealers and SqFTage. Solid content makes a huge difference

You can add boiled linseed to RS to make it have a little more holding power at the surface. I have a couple of decks at the 3 years point doing very well. They are right next to the very first version of Woodrich.My formula my idea ! Which is also doing well. I am going to a very old PT deck today that I add paint pigment to the oil for more hiding power at the surface. Yesterday was RS LB topped with AC toner. I'll have the combo meal, Please!

Dan, just shut up! only kidding,lol ?

It's an anagram of AC & RS !

Dan , I agree ! I wish you never found these boards ! LOL If you put a coat of RS down first AC works better. I call it SCAR !

Thats Pressure Treated wood not cedar ?

Just use bleach to clean up the Mue and a sorface cleaner.

Not to Shabby Rick !

Some of the most difficult decks I've stripped have been done with Tommy. They have added different lines besides the wax and are more difficult to strip.

I'm moving to CalF to work on REd WooD! LYle, That'S Too BeautifuL ! How many pounds Saw Dust do you eat per year and pick out of every orifice ?

With PT I wood seal it when the moisture content reach 12 to 15%. A couple of weeks to a month after its built. The new type of PT doesn't except an oil the same ? All other types of wood I let age until they loose some extractives or you have to gain experience to know what works with the type of sealer you are going to use.

It's much more difficult to blend new and old PT vs Cedar and Redwood. And even more difficult with the new type of PT with the old type . Older PT takes much more oil. Unless you use an oil that has a paint type pigment in it instead of the transoxide pig's.

Happy B- Day B! You don't look a day over 50ty minus 15 ?

No, to many variables to consider >

I think I have some poop photos with mold forming ?