James

Cabot and ReadySeal are completely too different kind or products . None of Cabots products are like RS. You need to do more research on what products do and the care of them. Many times on this board products get compared to each other but function differently. Once you understand how a product functions the choice is yours.

Very sharp deck Neil...

If you have batting cages where you are. Practise with different size bats. The skill level will dictate your choice.

Jon thats to funny ...!!!!

I think Ken has allot of time to become a good woody mastur bator! Or become the best!! Ken the info you give out is good for my biz. I hope the competition soaks it up. Great resolve?

I'm on my way to quote a job in need of allot of solids ( 40 gallons).

ABR has different products that you can use on newer wood with less solids. But you can use the thick stuff at more coverage per sqft. It stay's oily for along time.

I don't deal in assumptions. The first deck I oil was with Wolmans. It looked like I put Min Wax on an old deck. Looked terible. Then I used ABR on the same deck. Molasses comming out of a can. The difference is Solids. I brought this up in another thread and on other boards many many many time's before. One product doesn't make a woodcare pro. Understanding what wood needs and how to achieve those results does.

Ken there is a difference between The solids and drying and non drying oils. The lack of understanding products and how they are used is the point. ABR is thicker than RS. You reduce WTW to get penitration on IPE'. Your full on contradictions and don't know it ?

Product choice and solid content is the key to old cedar . If you have a product with 50% solids vs 90%. Side by side test it's a no brainer which will looks better and whats better for restoration. New cedar the 50% wood be better. Because there is no place for the solids to go. Having a few products in the garage and knowing when to use what for each type of wood situation is key.. Just got back from drowning a cedar shake house with 50 gallons . " Ocean Front Grey" non drying oil That is.....

Product choice for the job is an issue. What is the solid content of the product used? If you use a non drying oil it soaks up into the wood fiber's better. The older the better on cedar. But the replaced boards and sanded area's wood really stick out.

What type of surface Paint or Vinyl. To much soap and bad rincing for V will produce streaking. The darker the color and bad mold will produce streaks and color changes on paint.

Shane one more day in RI leaving Tues AM . I'm spraying with the deckster from ACR. This was a good pick up. Rick talked me into it!!

Yesterday 60 boxes of Kalifornia grapes were processed for Home made consumption. It should produce 240 bottles ??? Grape fun !! I looked like grape juice. Also I just finished woking for a guy who is a Vintner he goes out once a month to make sure a big process is going OK. Can't tell which one!!

No Tam pun intented!!!! Baaaahhhh

Man I crack my self up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Shane is also the " That time of the month Man in Texas for sheep". He invented the "Tamp paddle".. Baaaahhhh

Trying to Kram in as much wood as possible. Allot rain this Sept. ! So I can make it threw the winter .. I maybe able to return to stone restoration ( marble).

I stripped an Ipe' deck a couple of weeks ago that I'm letting sit till spring. It was treated about 5 or 6 times. The first treatment was done to soon.

Jeff I'm 47 and have a 4 year old. Last night after a week of hard woodcare. It was Leapfrog , tag and my favorite game stinger. I get to throw a ball at him while he's running around. life is good

The 200 series has a much higher solid content which is better for the woods longevity Great for porous wood (cedar shakes). On newer wood it would be more difficult to use. You can see the great results " BDA Shane" get's with BGA. IN fact similar to TWP's products. Ready Seal would be a good choice also. These products are the best for wood preservation and ease of application ( and maint.) Tex, I thought your post was funny until I saw your web site and Ken's. You all sell product's !!!!!

Is poker a card game or a sexual thing ?

I am a guru facts are facts. I'm not offended . I'm asking the questions. . I don't have an agenda on the boards. If i do have an agenda it's to question those who give questionable information or half truths. OR I balance the BS (PH)>.... Fact- percarbs darken wood and hardwoods much more than bleach. The acid is used more to get rid of the tannins and thus brighting the wood.

Ken I don't have to trust you. I know what I'm doing . I think you make good points for newbe's on the boards as marketing goes. I call attention to information that maybe slightly exaggerated as far as woodcare goes.

Ken you said 4 dollars for preping and sealing Ipe ? I can see for a very difficult strip. I do very high end and get top dollar. 4 dollars is very rear for a strip ( nightmare jobs). I just got back from RI for a cedar shake job which I was highest but did it different. New decks I figure 10 to 15 % of sqftage and other factors not how much it cost to build. Hardwoods are more labor intensive to build which does not effect our cost. Ipe I find the easiest to prep.