James

It takes time and practice.. Good luck ?

Yes , It took 5 years to figure out . I buy bleach in 15 gallon kegs' sodium hydroxide in 5 gallon buckets, phosphoric acid in 5 gallon . Most deck cleaning distributors just want your money. So they sell pre-carbs and alot of filler. You can buy the pre- carb stuff yourself in large lots.

I started in windows 17 years ago. The reason ? Painters and power washers were ruining my customers windows. If you leave bleach and chemicals on glass to long it take 's the smooth texture away. How did I discover this. On many of my cust window's I woud use a 6 inch blade to remove bug splat ( with water and soap ) no problem. After painter's or power washer's cleaned the house . The blade would skid on the glass . Making it very difficult to remove paint or clean properly in the future. I brought this to the attention to a couple of highly skilled painters and a power washers . They didn't want to here anything. They both said; I been doing this for 20 years no complaints. And I told them I'm here once or twice a year , and since you were here I can't clean the glass correctly. So thats when I desided to get into pressuse cleaning to protect my cust window's. Now its part of my marketing ( I won't ruin your glass) .

Yes - Cedar doesn't check or crack like PT- I started doing this because cedar doesn't hold or let a sealer penitrate deep enough to last. Once I started letting the wood age a year ( OH BABY WHAT PENITRATION). That one year of abuse helps the wood open up. Now I hold support groups for people who treated cedar pre maturally. Cedar thats 3 years old should never rot . unless it's a foot off the ground. no spacing between boards',, pine trees all around' , constant shade ,leaves were left for two years on top of deck , otherwise; sounds like bad lumber

Another factor with mill glaze is the wood is wet and has a lot of extractives . When its milled they heat up and come to the surface leaving a burnished affect on top of the wood. Ive been doing this for 8 years First 4 used pre-carbs and treated cedar right away. 2 nd 4 years started trying bleach and started letting all wood except pressure treated sit for 6 months to a year. Best move I made !!!!!

I totally disagree. I wait 6 months to a year depending on which type of cedar. The site says nothing about protecting the wood right away. It does say if you do it to soon it will not absorb the oil. It also says to clean with bleach. Cedar is very dense and has natural extractives that prohibit penitrating oils from going in. There is no benefit to sealing cedar right away. Unless you are going to use a film forming finish. The test the site was talking about was wood used for siding and those were film forming finishes. Most of my work is new cedar (refered by builders)and stripping cedar decks done to soon by people who don't understand cedar. I even tried wood tux samples on 3 month old port orford cedar. Would not go in ! I have 3 cedar deck s ready to go in spring.

Extreme , I just posted some photo's all cleaned with bleach. The only time I sand is after a strip job.

Your on the right path. Create your own image for quality! I always clean something so when they pull in the driveway or walk around the house it pop's out. That wasn't included in the price!! they always tell about that...

I use hot water sometimes 125 max when I do maint. I do yearly maint.. Because the wood has already been treated with oil the dirt and mildew are on the surface. The hot water breaks it up with very little pressure.

5 gallon stain and chem's - 15 gallon's bleach

It Kills the mildew. The wood must be wet or damp. It's all Timing. If you leave it on to long (new wood) it will fir up. You start to brake down the lignin. Keep the wood wet at all time's.

You can use Zuds and Bon Ami. Most glass restoration products have acids in them.

Good question ? Good piont ! But I've seen this oily residue right after installation.

Yes it will ( compound ) . It works well to remove oxidation from metal screens, I have cleaned windows for 17 years. Tried just agout every thing.

Soft Scub is an abrasive and will scratch glass!!! If your a wood care guy and screw up a window. Try some of your brightner! Put on arag and rub then rinse. Or keep some BON AMI in your truck this will work also. It can be found next to Comet .... Solariums and sun rooms with glass roofs. Collect dirt, roof run off, bleeding from rubber joints and caulk. Very difficult to clean in direct sunlight or in 90 temps. Call me before you do another Beth I'll tell how to do.

When a gutter is made on site a lubricant is used. After a few rain storms its pushed over the side attracting dirt and run off from the roof.

I don't use pre- carbs on new wood they darken the wood and raise the grain because there is no weathered wood to remove. You can use a brightner with some soap in it or if there is signs of mildew a mild bleach solution and rinse. I do a lot of new decks.

Use a mild bleach solution to clean the spindles 3 parts water 1 part bleach and clean the composite with the same solution. It will not fade you have to clean it .

Strip off the sik-ick product ! If your going to do yearly maint. stay away from film forming finishes. I take care mahog. decks they get better with age by using a penitratihg oil. Bleach water and soap for maint.

Try some graffitti chem"s I use (Tanginator). Use acetone first. If those don't work. then a poltice might work.

BLEACH WATER SOAP AND A HOSE.... NO PRESSURE TEAK EXPERT !!!

Rfitzy com down. you've come a long way in 6 months. your life has taken on many ne w chapter's. don't stop at chapter 13........

If you give 10 people the same tools and solution to clean a window . You will get 10 different result's. It take's a lot of practice to get good and make money. Diamond Jim master window cleaner !!!

Forgot cambara a hard wood.

PT , Cedar ( western red , white, port orford , yellow ), mahog. (red , white ), ipe' , doug fir , teak furniture . Cedar is the biggest pain in the bum. For got Redwood.